Dual Cam Sway Control - Install Question

[The Sloan Ranger]

Hi everyone,

I'm having camping world install a dual cam sway control system on to my Jayco 28RLS travel trailer. They were able to utilize my existing WD hitch and spring bars. When I dropped the trailer off (which is fully loaded and at it's normal tow weight), they told me that I would need to bring my vehicle back in after the install, for the purpose of getting everything set-up and adjusted correctly.

Well, I got a call this morning telling me that everything is ready to go. I asked if they needed me to bring in my TV, so that final adjustments could be made. They told me that I did not need to bring in my TV, that they had put my hitch on one of the employee vehicles and then made the final adjustments.

here is my question... Does this sound right, or do they need my vehicle to make the final adjustments? Thanks.

[Old Blue]

I would think you so unless his Truck is identical to yours the hitch hight could be different. I know that my Dodge sits higher than my Chevy did.

[Rustic Eagle]

snip.......Does this sound right, or do they need my vehicle to make the final adjustments? Thanks.
Your suspicions are right on, they "must" use your loaded TV to adjust the Reese HP Dual Cam in conjunction with your existing WDH. Once the Dual Cam product is added to your existing WDH all previous adjustments are moot.

They must have your vehicle to incorporate the proper WDH adjustment to achieve the correct weight transfer based on your loaded TV/TT combination, no way around it.

Once you get them to make the correct adjustments with your TV/TT combination, post some side view pics on this thread of your WDH/Dual Cam hitched up and we can see if there are any obvious issues.

I would advise the Camping World service manager that if this is there normal practice for installing/adjusting WDH's, they better raise there liability insurance coverage.

Bob

[healthi]

I would advise the Camping World service manager that if this is there normal practice for installing/adjusting WDH's, they better raise there liability insurance coverage.

Bob

I have to remember that line! :) Instead, we used the wordier version LOL. When the manager was ready to seal the deal on our tv, we said we wanted the 20" passenger tires changed out to 18" LT's. He was reluctant until we reminded him we were purchasing our Platinum to mainly tow long distances and I was sure he wouldn't want us to wind up hurting ourselves and others when those tires fail. We got our 18" LT's. :)

[Crabman]

The next question is even if they have your TV will they get it right after telling you they had it right with an "employee`s vehicle". It seems not all tech`s know how to properly adjust these hitches, or some simply do not care.

[scalemaster]

This system is not too difficult to setup. I would get the information and do it myself. This way you will know it is done correctly. Even when I get a safety inspection done, I check the wheels and suspension just in case.

[Bob Landry]

This is the reason that I will never allow Camping World to perform any service for me.

The WD does have to be adjusted for your TV and trailer loaded as it is ready to go. Changing the number of links used will require that the Dual Cam be readjusted. Actually, I will need to be readjusted if the WD is ever changed for whatever reason, so you need to know how to do it anyway. It's not difficult.

Also, when you pick up your rig, check that they did not drill all the way through the trailer frame and through bolt it. Reese is very specific about this in their installation instructions. There was a thread on another forum about a dealer that did this and voided the warranty on the trailer. I don't remember reading the final outcome, but it seems like the work was done at a CW location. Most dealers do not know how to set up a hitch. It's not hard, but it can be tedious and it just takes time to do it. Most dealers just want to get you out the door and get on with the next customer. FWIW, a shop that specializes in hitches may not be any more knowledable about hitch setup. Mine isn't and I did it myself.

[The Sloan Ranger]

I'm really starting to get tired of the service companies we have to deal with nowadays. It's like they forget that they are providing a service to us. IMHO, most employees for most companies take no pride in the work or service that they provide. It's very frustrating!!! I'd get fired if I performed my job in the same way that CW handled my dual cam install...

I show up and inquire as to how my vehicle can be ready without making the adjustments to my tv/tt combination. Everyone I talked to played completely dumb and blamed it on somebody else. The service manager at first tried to tell me that the dual cam would have no impact on the set-up, if I was good before, I'd be good after the install. The tech that installed the DC basically refused to show me how everything works and the procedure for hooking everything up after the manager told him to do so. I had to tell the tech that I just spent $355 and someone was gonna have to get off their A _ _ and show me how this thing works, or else there would be a problem. Only then did he finally comply, but took all of 30 seconds to show me "everything" and then go for a smoke break.

So basically, I wasted a couple hours of my life by leaving work early to load up my tow vehicle with the normal travel gear, so they could make the correct adjustments, and no one there felt inclined to do so. I seriously wanted to punch everyone I talked to, right in the face! I apologize, I'm not an angry person, it's just how I felt.

I've once again had this very simple lesson shown to me... Don't ever pay for anything until I'm happy with the service I've been given. I swear this is the last time I'll make that mistake.

Anyway, I'm supposed to re-schedule a time when they want to make all the necessary adjustments, but at this point I don't have any trust or faith in this store... Guess I need to learn to do this myself.

Sorry for the rant, I'll post up some pics from the cell phone is just a few minutes.

[Rustic Eagle]

I hate hearing anyone go through what you did, with any service orginization.

This is what I would do before returning to the CW in question: Marcus Lemonis, Chairman & CEO, Camping World, mlemonis@campingworldrv.com

Bob

[The Sloan Ranger]

Here's what I noticed...TV looks more back heavy than prior to install. Probably due to tech telling me to have the same number of chain links under tension as before the install. I thonk adding a couple more links would help. What does everyone else see?

[Rustic Eagle]

Ok, first we need to confirm which version of the Reese HP DC you have (#26002 or #26102). Referring to the chain hanger bracket (can't tell from photo), is it a flat plate or does it have a slight bend in it where the chain attachés?

Bob

[Crabman]

It is difficult to tell but the hitch head appears to have little or no tilt to the back, almost straight. Perhaps Rustic Eagle will critique your setup, he`s our WD expert.


On edit I see Bob has posted on this!

[The Sloan Ranger]

According to my receipt #26002

[Rustic Eagle]

The Sloan Ranger,

Ok, a slight bend back. The reason I asked is because......; Reese #26002 HP DC and Reese HP DC #26102 have two different designed chain hanger brackets. If you would have had the HP DC #26002 with the flat hanger brackets then yours would be attached in the wrong direction (based on your pic). If you have the HP DC #26102 with the slight bend in the hanger bracket then yours are attached correctly. Please note the direction of the U-bolt threads:

Reese HP DC #26002:

http://i54.tinypic.com/29ql3s6.jpg

Reese HP DC #26102:

http://i51.tinypic.com/2pq83v6.gif

It's important to have these mounted correctly to avoid damaging the snap-up brackets.

Just in case:

#26002 HP DC Installation Instructions: http://www.truckspring.com/Installation%20Instructions/Trailer%20Sway%20Control/Reese/26002.pdf

#26102 HP DC Installation Instructions: http://www.reeseprod.com/content/downloads/installation/N26102.pdf

Addressing your question if the WD is adjusted correctly. Unhitch your TT from your TV. Make note of the front/rear fender dimensions (ground to fender). Hitch your TT back up to your TV keeping the same 7-chain links under tension as shown in your pics, and take the same fender measurements again. How do they compare?

The objective is to return your front fender height back to its "unhitched" with the TV/TT "hitched" up.
Please note:

1) Your have the round bar style spring bars, ideally you want these bars to be parallel with your TT frame when engage (a "slight" angle up/down is ok).

2) By varying the ball mount tilt in conjunction with the amount of chain links under tension you can control the amount of weight being transferred to the front of your TV and TT axles.

3) If your TV front fender measurement is higher under "hitched" conditions then "unhitched", then you need to transfer more weight back to the front of the TV via added ball mount tilt and/or amount of chain links under tension. Keep in mind the objective is to ideally maintain a parallel relationship between the spring bars and the TT frame.

For reference, Reese Round Bar WD instructions: http://www.reeseprod.com/content/downloads/installation/N66067.pdf

Hope this gives you little insight.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

According to my receipt #26002

The 26002 number is the earlier version, but I have seen the model numbers get mixed up on documents. Which of the following looks like yours:

Early Version:

http://i56.tinypic.com/zirbip.jpg

Latest Version:

http://i53.tinypic.com/23r79s5.jpg

Based on your prior statement with the "slight bend" in the hanger bracket you have the latest version.

I see you deleted your prior post on the "slight bend back" reference?????

Bob

[The Sloan Ranger]

Bob,

Looks like i edited my post as you were typing. I am sure that my brackets bend back inward. However, my receipt does say 26002.

Perhaps campin world hasn't updated their point of sale system? It appears that the brackets are installed correctly, despite the model number condusion. Do you agree?

I'll try your additional suggestions to get everything lined up correctly. Thanks for the help.

[The Sloan Ranger]

Yes, I have the latest version with the silverish finish and bracket bend.

[Rustic Eagle]

snip......Perhaps campin world hasn't updated their point of sale system? It appears that the brackets are installed correctly, despite the model number condusion. Do you agree?snip......
Yes, if the hanger bracket is assembled and mounted per the diagram you should be fine.

Yes, Reese even used the earlier version "26002" model number on their packaging and installation instructions for the latest version, until just recently updating it to #26102.

Bob

[Bob Landry]

From the photos, the only thing that you can tell is that the bars are parallel with the trailer frame and for round bars, that is correct. The rear of the TV is low, but that may or may not be OK depending on how much weight is being transfered to the front axle.

You aren't going to want to hear this, but, the correct way, short of going to a scale, is to reconnect the DC, reattach the chains to the bars and select the link that puts the bars parallel. Measure your unhitched and and hitched wheel well height. If the front is the same either way, you're good to go. Otherwise, you need to adjust the weight transfer to the front axle so that the unhitched and hitched height are the same. This is don't by rotating the eccentric washer. Don't worry about the rear. Get the front right and the rear will take care of itself. Once the two heights are the same, reinstall the DC system. When everything is hooked up. drive in a straight line for 100 ft or so , so that you know everything is in a straight line. Then adjust the DC so that the cam rides perectly in the nook in the bar. it has to do that, and from the photo, it looks like it mat be a little off. The whole thng is not hard to do, it's just tedious and time consuming. Don't try to do it while DW is impatiently looking over your shoulder and patting her foot because she wants to get on the road.
After everything is set correctly, you can adjust the angle of the trailer if you like. It should be parallel to the ground or a little nose down. You can change it by moving the bolts up or down in the holes in the stinger. Changing the angle of the trailer is not going to affect your previous adjustments.

If yo have issues, let us know and between Eagle and myself, we can probably get youthrough it. I just finished readjusting my WD after trying to get two shops to do it right and installing my DC, so it's not rocket science. Good Luck.

One other thing that I noticed after the fact is that the chains need to be pulled from a position as vertical as possible. You need to move the snap up brackets forward to do that. You may have to notch the propane cover to provide some clearance.

[Crabman]

Looks like you guys are taking care of The Sloan Ranger. :Beerchug:

[Rustic Eagle]

Bob,

Just a couple of questions;


snip......You aren't going to want to hear this, but, the correct way, short of going to a scale, is to reconnect the DC, reattach the chains to the bars and select the link that puts the bars parallel
The re-adjustment (ball mount, chain links under tension, cam-centering, etc.) of the WDH to address any weight transfer issues can be done without removing the Reese cam arm yoke form the spring bar/chain hanger bracket, I do it all the time with both round bar and trunnion bar set-ups. This also allows one to address any DC clearance issues during the same process. Is there something I'm missing with the round bar application that a dis-assemble is required?


snip.......One other thing that I noticed after the fact is that the chains need to be pulled from a position as vertical as possible. You need to move the snap up brackets forward to do that. You may have to notch the propane cover to provide some clearance.
I do agree that ideally the chains should be vertical, but since the chain is stationary during TV turns the OP's present snap-up bracket position should work fine if he can't slide them forward in the event that the LP tanks steel base is in the way.

As you mentioned, in my DC set-up I did cut out the corners of my plastic LP tank cover around my snap-up bracket just for ease of access and placement of the cover.

Bob

[The Sloan Ranger]

Thanks for all the feedback and great advice. Based on the great information I've recieved, I think I'm going to do the adjustments myself this weekend.

I've noticed that the brackets aren't sitting in the pocket of the spring bars, does this affect performance? I've also noticed that when I go around a corner, I can hear what I assume is the spring bars rolling along the brackets. It makes a loud metal grinding sound, Is this normal?

Thanks for all the help.

[Rustic Eagle]

snip.......I've noticed that the brackets aren't sitting in the pocket of the spring bars, does this affect performance? I've also noticed that when I go around a corner, I can hear what I assume is the spring bars rolling along the brackets. It makes a loud metal grinding sound, Is this normal?.........snip
If you are referring to the spring bar tail radius placement over the top of the cam surface, then yes, it makes a difference. With the TV/TT straight and level the spring bar radius should be centered over the cam surface....., refer to the installation instructions for this adjustment. During TV turns the spring bar will move for/aft over the stationary cam surface.

Yes again, there will be a little noise during TV turns but this should settle down a little as the components mate together. Also use the same spring bar over the same cam surface (I marked my driver's spring bar with a zip-tie). On heavy spring bar applications (1,200lbs plus) a little dab of Vaseline over the cam surface will reduce noise and wear as well. Keep your hitch ball and spring bar sockets (@ ball mount) lubricated with grease.

Bob