Door problem

[jdorant]

we picked up our 2011 X23J a few weeks ago. Its used but in excellent condition. I had noticed every time you open the door from the inside, the door takes off on you slamming into the awning. I figured there was an adjustment to the gas prop (gas powered hinge on main door) attached to the door that just needed to be adjusted. With further investigation, I realized where the gas prop attaches to the door is worn out and ready to disconnect. Has anyone had this problem or a problem like this? and how have you fixed it?

[daviddudek]

Call or e-mail Jayco customer service. They are great and should be able to help.

[Ladywendolyn]

I didn't know that some of the trailers have a gas prop on the door.. I think I want to add one as our door has caught in the wind a few times already.

[tslarson]

Just looked at mine, it's half pulled out of the door. Will have to investigate further tonight.

[RedHorse1]

Ours has a gas strut that seems a little too strong. One of the first things I tell first-time campers with us is how to work the head and don't let the door swing open (kinda like slamming the screen door when I was a kid but in reverse). I can see a problem developing there in the future but not sure what to do about it. A weaker strut or a bungee cord snubber???

[clutch]

My brother in law deposited his strut in a dumpster at a campground. That ended most future problems. He did install a rubber bumper/fastner to hold the door open.

[jdorant]

spoke with Jayco yesterday. They said there is a new reinforced door sill part # 0223431. If I was not the 2nd owner, it would have been covered under warranty. I called my dealer and just waiting on a price back from them.

[CrazyTed]

You can buy a lighter cylinder to handle it.

[jdorant]

The reinforced door sill part # 0223431 came in. After a detailed explanation of my problem this is the part Jayco recommended. Well its not the part thats broken . The sill is the metal threshold you step on when entering the trailer. I called Friday to speak with someone in Service as was told I would receive a call back and did not. I will try again Monday. I hope there is a way this can be fixed without replacing the entire door.

[elstonian]

We had a problem with our door also "slamming" into the awning arm when its out, to fix this we put one of those rubber door knob stops like you would put on a wall to keep from putting a hole in the wall on the awning arm at the spot where the door hits, it has adhesive on it so it just sticks on, this solved the problem of the door hitting the awning but I never have looked at the gas prop tho, the door also blows around alot if the wind is strong enough.....I will have to check it this weekend....


2006 GMC Sierra 2500 (gas)
2011 Jay Feather X23J

[jdorant]

Got a new part # from Jayco that is supposed to fix the problem. It's part # 0223430. Surround Sill Extrusion. Its cut to size with ball stud and thin nut. but whats to say this won't happen again.

[tslarson]

Finally got around to checking my door a little closer. The ball is loose where it connects to the door, I can here it clunking when the door hits its full open extension. I tried tightening it but it just spins in the door. Looks llike I need the kit too. Thanks for the part number.

[jdorant]

I case anybody is wondering... The new part came in (part # 0223430 Surround Sill Extrusion) and I finally installed it (simple install). The door is much better now. The part was also in-expensive (about $22.00).

[RedHorse1]

I case anybody is wondering... The new part came in (part # 0223430 Surround Sill Extrusion) and I finally installed it (simple install). The door is much better now. The part was also in-expensive (about $22.00).
Is the new part any sturdier than the old one? It seems to me that letting the door swing open on its own power (gas strut) would eventually destroy any strut attachment. A slow acting strut might help. I'm afraid a weaker strut might not help that much. It's the weight of the door that does the damage. A weaker strut would have enough "umph" to get the door moving fast enough for a good pull at the end of its travel. A much weaker strut might not have enough "umph" to keep the door from flopping around in a breeze.

:mad:I'm grumpy today 'cause I'm in the office.

[jdorant]

Is the new part any sturdier than the old one? It seems to me that letting the door swing open on its own power (gas strut) would eventually destroy any strut attachment. A slow acting strut might help. I'm afraid a weaker strut might not help that much. It's the weight of the door that does the damage. A weaker strut would have enough "umph" to get the door moving fast enough for a good pull at the end of its travel. A much weaker strut might not have enough "umph" to keep the door from flopping around in a breeze.

:mad:I'm grumpy today 'cause I'm in the office.

I do think it's sturdier that the old. However its not the strut that was replaced. It was the bottom of the door where the strut attaches too. I do think over time it will probably break again if the door is continuously flung open. A better strut might also be helpful!

No need to be grumpy...just think of your next camping trip!

[RedHorse1]

No need to be grumpy...just think of your next camping trip!
Right on!
We're going to Memphis on 8 Oct. We're more than ready. Even the wienner-dog is looking forward to it - at least that what I think she's looking forward to. Could just be dinner, who knows?

[JAMMFAM]

"My brother in law deposited his strut in a dumpster at a campground. That ended most future problems. He did install a rubber bumper/fastner to hold the door open. "

x2, just get rid of the strut.