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Old 04-02-2011, 05:34 AM   #1
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Seasonal Camp Site - (Informative Info)

We have decided this year to get a seasonal site at a nice campground. We have never done this and I was looking for some advice or tips anyone may have about camping this way. Thank you.
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:05 AM   #2
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Sorry this is abit long, but gives you an idea of what we did. DW and I are on our 4th year at a seasonal site. We did our fair share of traveling and seeing the sites with the kids. When we first considered a seasonal site we wanted something that was within a 2 hour driving distance from home. Friends have a cabin in northern Wisconsin. Beautiful, yes. But a 5 hour drive puts them up there pretty late Friday night and they have to get an early start Sunday morning to beat the traffic heading south. They end up spending alot of weekend time on the road IMHO.

We checked out several booths at an RV show and searched the internet for places that would meet our needs/wants list. Lake, boat rentals, pool, large sites, owner not corporation owned, activities, friendly atmosphere, quiet family type not a constant party place, you get the idea. We came up with a short list of about 8 places, called each one to make an appointment, and spent a couple weekends visiting different campgrounds. Being used to state and national parks we were surprised at how tight some of the seasonal sites were at a couple places. I don't want my awning 10' from the back of the camper next to me. And some of the campers and sites didn't look all that well maintained so it gave me an idea of what the place was like. Lesson learned - don't go by the pictures in the brochures or on the internet, they can be misleading. We pulled into #7 out of 8 on our list, a small (167 seasonal and weekend sites) gated campground and were greeted by the most friendly owners/operators. They drove us around in their golf cart and toured the facility checking out the 4 seasonal sites that were available. Only 4 sites open let me to believe there wasn't a large turnover, must be a good reason. On our tour we noticed both the public grounds and individual sites were very well maintained. The sites were very large. Bathrooms were some of the cleanest I had ever seen. After the tour they went over the rules/policies/contract with us and thanked us for our interest in their campground. DW and I then decided to walk around and talk to some of the seasonals, asking them how they liked the place, any problems with noise, etc. Got nothing but positive comments and feedback. We left with a very good feeling and headed to see #8 on our list, which was a total waste of time after seeing the place we were just at. We decided on a site and went back to place #7 to sign a contract. We've made alot of new friends and had great times.

So to sum it up:

1. Decide what kind of place you want. There are quiet family oriented campgrounds that cater to families with kids and there are places that are like Las Vegas all night.

2. What amenities are important to you? Close to golf courses? Shopping/groceries close by? Fishing lake or river? Restaurant/bar on site? Pool/hot tub? Large shaded sites? Do they have an LP filling station? What else is there to do hearby? etc.

3. With gas prices being what they are, and probably going to get worse, how far do you want to drive to get away. Set a drive time window and try to stay within it.
We set ours at 2 hours and are at exactly 2 hours. Close, but still far enough to feel like we are really getting away.

4. 30 or 50 amp, sewer or septic, do they allow decks, sheds, golf carts. What are the quiet times.

5. Compare rates and what they include. We didn't have to pay for our 300 gallon inground holding tank and it's pumped out every 2 weeks as part of the yearly rate.

6. Can you leave the unit there all year or do you have to pull it out during winter. Of course this depends if winter is an issue where you live.

7. Expect electric to be metered and to pay what you use, just like at home.

8. Walk around and talk to other seasonals. Find out what they like/don't like about the place. Check out everything, bathrooms, store, game room, etc. Every campground has rules, but the extent to which they are enforced varies, ask. What is the turnover like and why?

9. Just about everyplace will have planned weekend activities. Find out what they are and how they fit into your interests/lifestyle.

10. If you haven't already done so invest in a water filter. A torpedo one from WalMart will work. Get a good quality sewer hose. The ones that come standard with a camper aren't the best and spend most of the time in the bumper storage and not exposed to the elements. Get a surge protector, it's cheap insurance considering what it will cost to replace all the electronics in your camper: TV, DVD/stereo, fridge, furnace, converter/inverter, HWH, etc. Campground electric can be spotty. I got a Progressive Industries one from Tweety's. Link:http://tweetys.com/progressive-indus...rotectors.aspx

11. Do your homework, take your time and keep an open mind. You will find a place that's just right for you, but it will take some effort.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:08 AM   #3
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Hi there...

Due to my disabled child (who cannot take change very well), we have our 2006 Jayco FBS at a seasonal site.

Our TT is supported by many 6-ton axle stands - which are sitting on large patio stone pads. If wondering, these stands are placed 6 feet part - down each frame rail. Thus, making its natural floor movement firm (solid). To view jack stand placements, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg

Our TT is connected to both water and 110/120V - 30 Amp Service. To ensure folks don't accidently flip over these lines (when walking behind our TT), these lines are burried approx 4" under the ground. Having these service lines under the ground is great for cutting grass as well. If wondering, our water and electrical are NOT metered. But, they do ask we turn off all lighting and AC when NOT using our TT. And, we keep the main water valve shut when NOT using our TT as well.

For our Peddle bikes (epecially my disabled son's 3-wheel peddle bike) and other items, we have a little 6ft x 8ft steel shed. This shed is tapcon on patio stones, which are on 2x4s, which is on plastic sheet. At our seasonal site, no gravel is allowed. This plastic sheet and 2x4s keep the floor shed "floating" and level.

Our TT can remain "on the spot" during the winter storage months as well. Some seasonal sites make you move your TT. For our current seasonal site, our TT remains "on spot" and our winter storage fee of $400 is subtracted from future summer seasons fee. Thus, our TT gets free winter storage.

Our TT has a small deck on its front side - which is sitting on mid-size flat patio stones as well. This floating deck also has 12V lighting. If wondering, this portable deck was created using sections and horizontal bolts. Thus, it can easily be split into 5.25ft by 9.5ft sections - to be transported in our 6x10 utility trailer. For pictures, surf http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_1352.jpg & http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_1388.jpg & http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...-Trailer-1.jpg

If wondering, our seasonal site TT is 1.5 hours drive away from our current home. 1.75 hours when traffic congestion is bad. If wondering, we love our seasonal site area so much, my wife & I want to move to that region. Hopefully, we can buy a future "lake front" properly in 5 years. And, spend the next 5 years building our dream home (and our TT will be used during its main construction year). Only time will tell. As many emphasis with home ownership & seasonal site visiting, always focus on "location, location, location".

This May, I'll be installing a "hard top" cover over our TT's large slide. Being a seasonal site, this top can be hard - instead of traditional soft awning. If wondering, our slide roof is starting to leak - because of its factory flat contruction. Our hard top will have a low slope - just enough slope to keep its natural rain water off.

We also have our canoe / kayaks for our water adventures as well. re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...-Trailer-1.jpg

Everything at our seasonal site must be "cleared away" under 24 hours. No gravel, no posts and no cutting down trees / branches. Floating patio stones are allowed. If some base items need to change, I simply ask my CG owner to inspect. And if needed, he removes the items (like the large tree branches that were almost rubbing our TT's roof). He removed those long overhead branches under a few short hours. We only cut our grass. And being "in the shade", we only need to cut our double lot's grass (which is every other weekend). And, the CG owner provide the lawnmower (and fuel).

When investigating lots at different seasonal sites, always ask for grouped sections based your specific lifestyle. If wondering, I don't drink (I buy canoe / Kayaks instead) and don't smoke (I bought our 2006 Jayco with that money instead). And, I'm a "lights out" at 11:00 PM type person as well. Thus, I asked for a "double lot" against the fence-line - located in the quet family section. Theres is others to camp to party (and drink their brains out). The seasonal site CG owner puts those folks in a different section. And, other folks want to along on the lake side (which tends to have more people traffic). When looking for a lot, remember to ask for specific lifestyle sections as well. If the seasonal site doesn't group the people, look for a different seasonal camp ground. Especially if you have young kids or have specific needs (like my disabled son).

For our situation, we love our seasonal site. Works great for our son - who cannot handle too much change.

Hope this helps...
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:39 AM   #4
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Thanks for all the good info. When you guys leave for the week, do you leave the tt plugged in, propane on as a backup for the fridge, leave slide out or bring it in, etc.....
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:50 AM   #5
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At my seasonal site, our TT's slide remains out and awning remains out during camping season. Out in the spring and in at fall time. And, it remains in during the winter storage months.

To reduce risk of awning beam from bending (due to heavy rains / strong winds), our large awning has a middle support as well. re: Both horizontal and vertical middle support. And, its one corner is always lower (then its other side). Thus, good rain flow slope. For an awning vertical / horizontal adjustable support (which is avalable at my RV dealers), surf: http://www.awningassist.com/

While away for the week (since we mostly camp weekends during the summer), its main water valve is OFF. Propane tank valve is ON, its 110/120V 30 Amp remains ON, and our 12V manual switch remains ON. And, our fridge setting is set to AUTO. Meaning, it will "auto flip" from default electrical power to 12V + propane power (when main electricity accidentlly goes out).

Behind our fridge, I also installed 1 x 120mm high speed 12V computer fan, with an manual OFF/On switch. re: http://www.quietpc.com/files/images/...slipstream.jpg During the hot temp months (or during a hot temp day), I will turn this fan ON. Thus, ensuring nice air flow across the rear coils of the fridge. At night (when sleeping), I turn this fan OFF. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0589.jpg

If wondering, we bring most of our food and clean clothes Friday night, and take away our dirty clothes Sunday night. Only stuff that remains in our TT's fridge is items that can last a long time. re: Musturd, Catchup, Pickles, cans of pop, some frozen food items, etc. Most of our dry goods (like cookies and cereal) is stored in tin or plastic containers as well. Thus, being more "critter proof" (when we're not using our TT). We alway bring fresh milk, fresh juice and fresh meat every time we visit.

And, both roof vents are left open approx 1 inch as well. If wondering, we have MaxxAir covers over these vents. Thus, very low risk of rain water getting inside our TT. And best of all, our TT smells nice inside - because we leave these vents open.


Hope this helps...
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Old 04-02-2011, 11:45 AM   #6
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Slides are extended and fridge is turned on April 15th thru October 15th. Our electric awning goes in when we leave. Like Spike99 we leave fridge set to 'Auto' just in case the power goes out. Hint: you'll know if the power goes out because the microwave clock will be blinking. Water spigot is turned off when we leave. Our 3 roof vents have MaxxAir covers so we leave a couple and one of the crank out windows open a bit when we leave to keep air circulating.
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Old 04-02-2011, 03:56 PM   #7
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I appreciate all the answers. So I want to leave the battery connected even though I'm always plugged in? Do you guys do anything in particular to keep the mice away while you are gone during the week?
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:06 PM   #8
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Mice and other "critters" enter into TTs, 5ers,RVs for:
- food
- shelter
- Easy access.

We put all food items into plastic or tin containers. Where possible, we use tin containers. And if we don't have an available container, we put the item inside our microwave (before leaving our site). Thus, keeping it protected from possible critters as well...

We stuff holes around our TT's slide with rags as well. If one can stick their index finger into a hole, mice can get into that hole as well.

For our TT, it has a bad mice, chipmunk and black squirrel invasion last spring. re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0594.jpg & http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0601.jpg & http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0603.jpg As seen within these pictures, the factory underbelly material and fibreglass insulation of many TTs are useless. Thus, I removed its factory underbelly materials, applied steel mesh across large openings (like under the tub gooseneck and around its holding tanks) and applied contractor grade spray foam (Closed Cell @ 2 lbs - which takes water exposure). Since spray foam, NO mice or other critters has entered our TT. And having its underbelly spray foam @ 3.5" - 4.0" thick means food smells from inner floor to ground level are dramatically reduced as well.

Today, its much easier for critters to gain entry into other TTs. Thus, the TTs surrounding ours got "invaded" this spring. No one evidence of mouse droppings or other items inside our TT. Thus, "ease of access" has been eliminated within our TT as well.

Not too sure if you want to remove factory fibreglass insulation and replace with Spray Foam. Especially if your TT is under factory warranty. I do know for my next future TT, I will ensure it has Spray Foam within it as well. Contractor Grade Spray Foam (2lbs - Closed Cell) is amazing for repelling critters and for better water exposure protection....

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Old 04-05-2011, 05:17 PM   #9
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Sorry to horn in here but this is great info! Do you leave the A/C on when you're gone? We've been discussing this but don't know what's best. We will pay for our electric each month so I guess the question is how hard is it on the A/C unit? Any help will be greatly appreciated. @Wiscampsin, we ordered our surge protector and lock box today - thanks for the info and link in the other thread!
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:17 PM   #10
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For my TT's AC, I leave its AC turn OFF. It's electric hot water heater (to save on LP gas) is turned off as well. I also leave its "lights out" as well. TV/DVD player is unplugged and our coffee maker is unplugged as well. Only electrical item left on is our fridge. And if we'll be away for 3+ consecutive weeks, we "clean our fridge out", leave its door open 1/2", and turn it off as well.

Hope this helps...

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Old 04-05-2011, 06:45 PM   #11
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No sense leaving the AC on if you're not going to be there. If you've got vent covers leave them open a bit and leave one of your awning windows open a crack to let some air circulate.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:07 AM   #12
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Red face

All good points and makes sense! Seems like this is all we think about and I'm sure we're over thinking. Just can't wait to start this adventure! The camper gets moved to the seasonal site this weekend and just found out our pontoon has arrived so we're chomping at the bit to get this show on the road. We hope to post some pictures soon!

I did think of one dumb question this morning and I'm almost embarassed to ask. We've never camped anywhere with full hook-up so this is all new to us. When you are connected to water do you need to turn on your water pump? I can't remember what they told us at walk through and I sure don't want to turn it on and blow out the plumbing :hihi: Is it strange I have dreams about these things??? Can't thank you all enough for the helpful advice!
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:41 AM   #13
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When connected to shore "water" services, the TT's water pump is turned OFF (left off).

Actually.... Your questions / conerns about shore water is a good one.

Unknown to some, the shore power water hose connects to your TT's "shore water" inlet (not the holding tank's fill inlet). Thus, shore water bypasses the TT's fresh water holding tank.

Some CG sites have "too much" water pressure and others have poor water pressure. When water pressure is too much, it might blow your TT's inner piping. Especially since most inner water piping is cheap (low cost) plastic. If you feel your shore power water pressure is too much, do install an inline water pressure regulator. Various models at: http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Pr...Regulators.htm

If you install an inline water pressure regulator at a CG that has poor water pressure (and your taps and shower dribble out instead of flowing out), simply remove the water pressure regulator. Or, if adjustable regulator model, simply adjust the regulator's manual settings.

When leaving your seasonal site, its best to turn your shore power water valve to OFF. And, turn on a tap - to remove any existing inner piping pressure (within its plumbing). And, turn off its electric Hot Water heater system as well.

Hope this help....

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Old 04-06-2011, 09:51 AM   #14
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When you connect the hose to the side of your TT you don't need the pump on. The waterpump only pumps water from your fresh water holding tank. It's also used to pump RV antifreeze in your pipes when you winterize. There should be a hose controlled by a valve coming off the waterpump that looks like it doesn't go anywhere. Stick that hose into a jug of antifreeze, turn on the pump, and it will suck the antifreeze and pump it thru the pipes. Remember, there are no dumb questions, just a learning curve. Hope all goes well this weekend.
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:49 AM   #15
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Smile

You guys are awesome! Your comments jogged my memory. I'm really excited that we won't have to listen to the water pump everytime we turn on the water. I hated to get up in the middle of the night to use the "facilities" and wake up DH and the dog because the water pump kicked on The regulator is on the list to purchase this weekend. I'm thinking we will drain the hot water tank before we leave also. We've camped for five years in a trailer but there still seems to be so much to learn. Thanks again!
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:55 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Headed to the Lake View Post
.... I'm thinking we will drain the hot water tank before we leave also. ...
To drain the hot water tank, open the water tank access door and remove the plastic plug. This can be done with a wrench. A "pain" but it can be done.

On a few TT's, I seen a hose and a manual valve (available at my Home Depot plumbing parts store) instead of this standard plastic plug. To drain their hot water tank, they open the access door, re-position this short hose (to point downward), then manually open the value. After HW tank is drained, they move its manual valve to OFF, re-position its short hose, then close the access door. For a picture, surf: http://www.modmyrv.com/wp-content/ga...-with-hose.jpg

If leaving the seasonal site during above freezing temps, it isn't necessary to drain its HW tank each time. Simply turn the main "shore power" water supply valve to off, ensure its Hot Water tank "heating system" is turned off and open a sink tap - to release its inner piping pressure. Then, do the reverse steps when returing back to your CG site. Only need to drain its HW tank during cold freezing temps.

Hope this helps as well...

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Old 04-06-2011, 12:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Headed to the Lake View Post
The regulator is on the list to purchase this weekend.
Might consider a water filter too if you don't already have one. We have been using the blue torpedo inline one for years.http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Wate...-Hose/14504321
Read the directions, you have to flush it out first before hooking it up.

Campground H2O spigot -> pressure regulator -> H2O filter -> hose to camper
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:18 PM   #18
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@Spike99, sounds like a nice idea! We always end up with torn up knuckles from draining the hot water tank - such tight spaces. We always drained our tank in the first camper because the one time we didn't, it smelled horrible. I don't know that we ever truly got rid of that smell!

@Wiscampsin, the filter is on the list also. We were going to purchase one from the RV place that is hooking up the water and connecting the sewer line but it looks like the one from Walmart would be fine and it's probably much more economical! The campground has pretty strict rules about the sewer connection so we are opting to have these folks, who are much more experienced than we are, take care of it. They are also familiar with the owner and his expectations. Again, thank you for the helpful ideas. You've lightened our wallets quite a bit this week.....but all well worth it!
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:42 PM   #19
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HEY JUST ADD TO YOUR POST
I ALSO STUFF ANY HOLES WITH STEEL WOOL THE CRITTERS DON'T LIKE THAT
sorry for the cap letters
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:38 AM   #20
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Hey Headed to the lake, when you go get you pressure regulator, pickup a brass 90 deg fitting so your fresh water hose will hang straight of the trailer. I just read that is someones post, sounded like a good idea so i've just returned from my local jayco dealer with the regulator, brass 90 and a clear plastic lens to replace the yellow one on the outside of the tt ( hope it is the same). Happy camping
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