Cover for RV?

[Easycamper]

Do I need to cover [ southeast ky.] also do I need to leave leveling jacks up or down ,and last do you leave pluged in during winter months. Fisrt TT 199 sport 2010 .

[hammerdown]

1-I have never covered an RV in 40 years. There are pros and cons, mostly cons like the wind blowing the cover causing wear on the RV finish.
2-I leave my jacks up but I don't think it matters.
3-It is best to store the battery out of freezing weather. The single stage converter/charger that comes in some RV's will not fully charge the battery and will overcharge the battery if left plugged in continuously. Check the electrolyte level in the battery at regular intervals if you do leave it plugged in continuously
"The life of your batteries will be longer and happier if you charge them correctly. The best chargers on the market are 3-stage chargers. Use of a good quality 3 stage charger will significantly improve your battery's performance and lifespan. These chargers can be purchased separately or are included as part of many of the better quality inverters. When using a 3 stage charger, battery charging takes place in 3 basic stages: Bulk, Absorption, and Float.

[robert421960]

Originally Posted by Easycamper

Do I need to cover [ southeast ky.] also do I need to leave leveling jacks up or down ,and last do you leave pluged in during winter months. Fisrt TT 199 sport 2010 .

hey neighbor
i never have covered mine either but i do think it would be better to protect it from the elements all winter
jacks up or down shouldnt matter and i think removing the battery like suggested is a good idea
Robert

[Seann45]

Dont cover... the RV was built to be outside... the covers are sold to the "nervous Nellie's" who have more money than they know what to do with...

Do cover the tires to prevent weather checking...

I put my tires on wood blocks to keep them off the ground..

I put my jacks down but dont really need to...

Slideout IN

Battery charged and stored on a wood block in the basement unless you have a solar system..

All tanks empty and water lines blown out... dont forget to drain the water heater..

All that being said I now have a much easier way to winterize...

"Park it under a Palm Tree".. That is what I have been doing for 3 years now...

[cciparts]

Originally Posted by robert421960

hey neighbor
i never have covered mine either but i do think it would be better to protect it from the elements all winter
jacks up or down shouldnt matter and i think removing the battery like suggested is a good idea
Robert

I agree. One thing I would highly recommend is checking your roof seams for cracks. If you find cracks in the caulk, use the same product the factory uses. It is called Alpha Self Leveling Caulk. You DO NOT want to leave seams open over the winter and water is your worst enemy.

[av8arkie]

My book says do NOT store with jacks down. Like Seann45 said do park on wood. Tires will rot WWWWAAAAAYY before tread is gone if you don't! As far as cover......Store it in a covered storage unit!

[cciparts]

Reading all the great suggestions on Winterizing has inspired me to publish the importance of Seam Checks as part of your procedure. Please come look at a couple of pics I published this morning and I think it will help you understand the importance:

http://parts.cunninghamcampers.com/?p=4695

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by cciparts

Reading all the great suggestions on Winterizing has inspired me to publish the importance of Seam Checks as part of your procedure. Please come look at a couple of pics I published this morning and I think it will help you understand the importance:

http://parts.cunninghamcampers.com/?p=4695

It is great to have a certified tech on here, a very valuable resource for forums such as this one. After seeing your sealing tips, I have to wonder about the windows. I have read on this and another forum several times that Jayco uses a dry fit gasket on their windows that must be replaced after 2 to 3 years. This of course would require pulling the windows and resealing, not something everyone expects to have to to this soon. Any thoughts on this?

[cciparts]

Crabman,

We haven't experienced any seal issues on the windows. Keeping a small bead of OSI Quad around them will help ease your mind.

I'm the certified parts & warranty guy and Larry Cunningham is the Master Tech. He keeps me straight with the answers. We are here to help as much as we can. We bring 37 years of experience with the Jayco product to the table.

Our company is a Jayco Gold Circle Dealer and our Service, Parts & Customer Satisfaction Statistics are the highest in our Region. Being Gold Circle is one of the highest honors as a Jayco Dealer. Our owner, Mr. Evan Cunningham, was personal friends with Lloyd Bontrager, the founder of Jayco. We have an extensive history.

[Crabman]

Thanks for the info. Good to know you and Larry have many years of experience to draw from. I see you mention OSI Quad sealant. I have used Proflex on my previous trailer for around the windows, clearance lights, storage doors etc. Are the two products similar? I agree that you have to be proactive with maintenance on a trailer to avoid leaks and the resulting damage.

[FPM III]

Originally Posted by cciparts

Reading all the great suggestions on Winterizing has inspired me to publish the importance of Seam Checks as part of your procedure.

That's excellent information! Thanks for your time and effort for presenting it.

Can you go one step further for the "do it yourselfers" and provide some information on how to prepare the areas to be recaulked along with any hints/tips for making the job a success? Surely you're not just applying new caulk over the old. So, what tools, solvents etc. are best for removing the old caulk and preparing the surfaces for the new?

[cciparts]

Originally Posted by FPM III

That's excellent information! Thanks for your time and effort for presenting it.

Can you go one step further for the "do it yourselfers" and provide some information on how to prepare the areas to be recaulked along with any hints/tips for making the job a success? Surely you're not just applying new caulk over the old. So, what tools, solvents etc. are best for removing the old caulk and preparing the surfaces for the new?

To scrape the old caulk use a plastic putty knife or plastic scaper. DO NOT use metal. To prep and clean the area we use alcohol wipes.

Since you are using self leveling caulk on the roof seams, you can get away with layering over the old caulk. Never go more than a couple layers though.

Also, let me share a secret to cleaning the roof. Don't be fooled by people telling you to go buy rubber roof cleaner. The procedure we have used for the past 37 years works perfectly well; 5 gallon bucket of water, 3 tablespoons Dawn Diswashing Detergent and a soft bristled automobile wash brush with a telescoping handle. That's what you should use to clean your roof and sidewalls.

Another question people ask me is, "what do we use for black streaks"? First off, if you wash your roof a couple times during the season that will cut down on your black streaks. We use a product called Crown RV & Boat Cleaner (Black Streak Remover). It is made in Nicholasville, KY and we haven't found anything that can beat it. It has a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. If you aren't satisfied they will refund 100% of your retail purchase price. We have NEVER had a customer take them up on that.

Yes, we sell Crown. I don't want Rolly to think I am here for profit so I'm not going to post a link to the crown. If anyone is interested in a link to the product on our website just PM me and I will send you one.

Hope you find this useful.

[FPM III]

Thanks, Wes, for the information and advice. I'm sure I and everyone else will put it to good use.

I try to scrub the roof once a year (usually before I send the TT for its winter vacation in a limestone mine). However, I've always used Spic 'N Span and a regular household scrub brush. I'm not sure how this compares to Dawn or whether I've been using the wrong cleaner for the last 10 years but I've never noticed any problems. Any thoughts... comments?

[cciparts]

Originally Posted by FPM III

Thanks, Wes, for the information and advice. I'm sure I and everyone else will put it to good use.

I try to scrub the roof once a year (usually before I send the TT for its winter vacation in a limestone mine). However, I've always used Spic 'N Span and a regular household scrub brush. I'm not sure how this compares to Dawn or whether I've been using the wrong cleaner for the last 10 years but I've never noticed any problems. Any thoughts... comments?

As long as it is non-abrasive all is fine. The problem with abrasives on a rubber roof is the membrane. There is a very thin coating on the rubber. You want to make that coating last as long as humanly possible. If you use anything abrasive it wears the coating off the membrane and that is not a very good thing. Of course they make a roof paint for repairing small areas, but I assure you it isn't as good a protectant as the factory coating. If what you are doing works, by all means keep it up. Our preference is Dawn. We like the grease cutting ability of a dish soap and if the truth be told, the cost savings as well.

Like you, I am sharing years of knowledge with all that view this board. Everyone has their way of doing things that work well and most of us have learned the hard way. If we share enough of what we have learned maybe others won't make the same mistakes we made in the past.

I share from a Dealer point of view, only our philosophy is a little different than most; If we can save you a buck and teach you a shortcut, more than likely we earn a customer for life. That's the Evan Cunningham way.

[Seann45]

Originally Posted by cciparts

As long as it is non-abrasive all is fine. The problem with abrasives on a rubber roof is the membrane. There is a very thin coating on the rubber. You want to make that coating last as long as humanly possible. If you use anything abrasive it wears the coating off the membrane and that is not a very good thing. Of course they make a roof paint for repairing small areas, but I assure you it isn't as good a protectant as the factory coating. If what you are doing works, by all means keep it up. Our preference is Dawn. We like the grease cutting ability of a dish soap and if the truth be told, the cost savings as well.

Like you, I am sharing years of knowledge with all that view this board. Everyone has their way of doing things that work well and most of us have learned the hard way. If we share enough of what we have learned maybe others won't make the same mistakes we made in the past.

I share from a Dealer point of view, only our philosophy is a little different than most; If we can save you a buck and teach you a shortcut, more than likely we earn a customer for life. That's the Evan Cunningham way.

Sure glad to have you on here.... THANK-YOU Thank-you thank-you

[Albertaguy]

Originally Posted by cciparts

As long as it is non-abrasive all is fine. The problem with abrasives on a rubber roof is the membrane. There is a very thin coating on the rubber. You want to make that coating last as long as humanly possible. If you use anything abrasive it wears the coating off the membrane and that is not a very good thing. Of course they make a roof paint for repairing small areas, but I assure you it isn't as good a protectant as the factory coating. If what you are doing works, by all means keep it up. Our preference is Dawn. We like the grease cutting ability of a dish soap and if the truth be told, the cost savings as well.

Like you, I am sharing years of knowledge with all that view this board. Everyone has their way of doing things that work well and most of us have learned the hard way. If we share enough of what we have learned maybe others won't make the same mistakes we made in the past.

I share from a Dealer point of view, only our philosophy is a little different than most; If we can save you a buck and teach you a shortcut, more than likely we earn a customer for life. That's the Evan Cunningham way.

I also echo the thanks for you posting here. It is good to have an expert that can help and also destroy myths. Thank you!!!

[cciparts]

Now I've gone and done it. LOL

My boss was reading my posts on the board this weekend and now he tells me I may be giving seminars on preventing water leaks at the 2011 Louisville Boat & RV Show. Guess I better freshen up on running a bead of caulk, after all, it's gotta look pretty when your on TV.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by cciparts

Now I've gone and done it. LOL

My boss was reading my posts on the board this weekend and now he tells me I may be giving seminars on preventing water leaks at the 2011 Louisville Boat & RV Show. Guess I better freshen up on running a bead of caulk, after all, it's gotta look pretty when your on TV.

Ya never know when the boss might be watching! He knows who`s naughty and nice! Looks like you`re the new leak seminar guy.

[av8arkie]

I was also told to use Dawn dishwashing liquid. Seems to work great for roof, and awnings. We use Snap Seal for the sidewalls, windows, fiberglass caps and wheels. It is really great stuff. Also works well on black streaks. It is a tar and bug remover with wax. It is easy on and off! We also use it to clean the corporate jet I fly. It is a great cleaner and leaves a wax finish behind. It will bead anything from water to bird crap. It can be found at topoftheline.com. If you use it you will love it! I also agree it is nice to have a pro on here!

[boomer1389]

I was told not to cover your trailer, cause as it goes through temp changes it will cause it to sweat causing mildew and mold problems. Its best to leave it uncovered and let it breathe. My 2cents anyways