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Old 04-25-2016, 09:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by SomersIsles View Post
Thanks everyone for the input!

So it seems like I don't even really need to worry about the antifreeze until I'm in the midst of the sanitizing? I just fill the fresh water tank, add bleach, turn on the water pump and get all the lines flowing a bit..... let it sit.... then drain. And during that draining process any of the antifreeze will dump out as well (minus the black water tank of course which will be kept closed til we go camping). Then just repeat to rinse out the bleach.

That's definitely do-able!

Here's some water pump questions.... (because I've never used it)

1) You never use the water pump when you're on the city connection, right?
2) When I fill my fresh water (via NON-city connection)... do I turn on the pump... and wait a bit before running the faucet? Or does that not matter?
3) Does the water pump impact the way you drain the fresh water tank afterwards? Or do you just shut it off and pull the low point drain plug?

Sorry for so many questions! There's so much to learn!!
Not to worry about the antifreeze, you'll just push it out of the system. Run PLENTY of water from each fixture (kitchen, vanity, shower/bath, toilet) until you empty the FW tank. Trust me, you'll know when the tank is about empty. Then you fill the FW tank and do it all again to rinse the bleach out of the system.

Here's where I use the low point drains to empty the system.

THEN you hook up the hose to the city water inlet and run more water through.

Disconnect the water and drain the system again.

Re: Your pump questions.
  1. Correct. The pump only pulls water from the FW tank, and does nothing when you're hooked up to city water pressure.
  2. Don't think it matters. Even after the pump is turned on it probably won't do anything until you open a faucet.
  3. Correct. Just turn the pump off and open the low point drains, in that order.
Hope this helps. It only seems intimidating. Once you get through it you'll wonder why you worried.



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Old 04-26-2016, 06:54 AM   #12
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One complexity, that kind of depends on how thorough you want to be....

The water heater has it's own mini-tank, usually about 6 gallons. For winterizing, there are "by-pass" valves to shut it off from the rest of the water system. And then it's drain plug is removed and it is drained.

Previous posters have advised leaving the heater bypassed until after you have sanitized/flushed. If you don't, the bleach water fills the heater, and then normal flushing via the faucets takes forever and lots of water to get it all out again.

But, the heater tank is a nice warm place for things to grow - especially the bacteria that can cause the dreaded "sulphur smell" (although other things besides bacteria can cause that, too!).

So you have a choice:
1) Since the heater tank was pretty empty anyway, leave it bypassed, until after sanitization. Will likely be fine.
2) Or if you want to be really sure, open the by-passes before sanitizing. But after an initial first round of flushing (to get the bleach water out of the supply pipes going to the heater), remove the heater plug and drain it. Put the plug back in, and continue flushing. That will take out most of the 6 gal of bleach water in the heater, speeding up the flushing of the whole system.

The bad side of #2? A bit more work, and on some trailers, the plastic heater plug can be hard to remove and put back.

I've found for me, that I then also have to drain the heater anytime the trailer sits for a few weeks between trips, or I have a high probability of getting the "sulphur smell" problem occurring.....but many others do not have that kind of an issue.

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Old 04-26-2016, 08:06 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by rkresge View Post
Run PLENTY of water from each fixture (kitchen, vanity, shower/bath, toilet) until you empty the FW tank.
There's no point in running the water till you empty the FW tank.

Run the water till you can smell chlorine at the fixtures. Then stop and let everything sit. Having the lines & FW tank sit with a bleach solution in them is what does the actual sanitizing.

Now drain the FW tank, & water lines. Refill the FW tank with fresh water and run the water at the fixtures till you don't smell chlorine.

Drain tank & lines again and your good to go.

The amount of water in the grey and black tanks is minimal.

NOTE, the TT manual may say mix up 1/4 cup of bleach solution in a gallon of water for each 15 gal of FW tank to get a 50ppm solution for sanitizing.

BUT THAT MAY BE WAY TO MUCH with today's concentrated bleaches check the label of the bleach you're using and calculate how much you actually need for a 50ppm solution.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:57 AM   #14
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PPM Conversion

Cups of Bleach Required = (Target Concentration in ppm)*(RV Tank Size)*(16 cups per gallon)/((Bleach Concentration)*(1000000))

So... if you are using 8.1% bleach, and have an 80 Gallon FW tank, and shooting for 50 ppm:

((50ppm)*(80 Gal)*(16 Cup/gal))/((.081)*(1000000ppm)) = .79 cups

Now, sanitizing with sodium hypochlorite is also a function of time and temperature.

The hotter it is, the quicker it will work.

Sunlight breaks down sodium hypochlorite, so use a fresh bottle.

Sodium Hypochlorite is hygroscopic, which means it sucks water out of the air... so use a fresh bottle.

Pool Shock is NOT ALWAYS sodium Hypochlorite - it usually includes other types of oxidizers. DO NOT USE POOL SHOCK, even though the bottle says "12% available chlorine.) You're better off sticking to clean bleach - obviously without any fragrances.

This is dangerous stuff. If you are at all uneasy about reading, or basic chemistry, call a professional.

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