De-winterizing-peace of mind

Swinepartner · 03-15-2015, 07:55 PM

Ok, I'very been reading my manuals and on here. When I bought my 28BHBE, it was already winterized from the factory (picked up in Jan), so I haven't pushed water through it yet.

I've gone through for the hot water heater and installed the plug, and turned the valve to "inline" and ready for flow. And this valve is a PIA to get to in the small crawl space!!!

In this pic of the water pump assy, I see the bottom valve is "inline" and ready for flow.

Is there anything else I need to look at before hooking up water? I've read where to turn the cold on first and flush, then the hot. And once the hot water heater is filled, I can light it and test for hot water.

I didnt get a chance to look and see my low point drain area though.

Thanks for y'all's help.

t2daniel · 03-15-2015, 08:15 PM

I would flush all your lines before switching the bypass on the hot water heater. No need to put any antifreeze into the hot water heater. after you flush the system with fresh water, then you can change the bypass on the HW heater.

Don't forget to sanitize the system after you flush all the antifreeze out.

Northern Jay · 03-15-2015, 09:19 PM

Your low point drains will be in the bottom of the vanity in the bathroom. And do flush the lines before switching bypass on water tank.(it will take a long time to flush the antifreeze out of there without draining it)
Happy Camping

NY RVer · 03-16-2015, 05:18 AM

Swinepartner, I know how you feel about the hot water heater valves; being right handed and trying to work those valves is no fun! I am thinking of a mod to access them from under the bottom bunk; maybe a hinged trap door. If i come up with an easy solution, I will post it here. Has to be a better way.

S.Chandler · 03-16-2015, 07:09 AM

Mine has an access door to the hot water heater and electrical junction right behind the large hinged door under the mattress.

NY RVer · 03-16-2015, 07:13 AM

S.Chandler, do you have a 28BHBE, and did it come stock with the access door?

namusmc65 · 03-16-2015, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t2daniel

I would flush all your lines before switching the bypass on the hot water heater. No need to put any antifreeze into the hot water heater. after you flush the system with fresh water, then you can change the bypass on the HW heater.

Don't forget to sanitize the system after you flush all the antifreeze out.

X2.
I did not do this one time and had all kinds of antifreeze in the hot water system. Had to do a lot of flushing to get it all out. Now, I flush before switching the hot water heater over and no problems.

S.Chandler · 03-16-2015, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NY RVer

S.Chandler, do you have a 28BHBE, and did it come stock with the access door?

I have the 28BHBE Elite and yes it came standard with the access door

Camper_bob · 03-16-2015, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NY RVer

S.Chandler, do you have a 28BHBE, and did it come stock with the access door?

My 28BHBE also has a small access port under the bottom bunk. Has a finger hole cut in it and everything. You just reach in there, grab the far edge of the mattress, fold it over toward you, lay down on it and you have GREAT access to the winterizing valves. Easier than pie!

It's going to take some time and A LOT of water to sanitize your water system. Your trailer has 2 40 gallon tanks and you want to be sure you sanitize the entire tank, so you want to fill them all the way with your diluted bleach solution. Then you turn on the pump and run it through all your pipes, let it sit at least 4 hours, then drain it all. This takes a LONG time if you just use the built-in drains. Sometimes I try to expedite the process by running at least one faucet. Otherwise, I just walk away and do something else for a while. Then you fill it all again at least once for the rinsing process.

S.Chandler · 03-16-2015, 07:42 AM

One thing I noticed though is that trailers seem to be like snow flakes, no two are made exactly the same.

NY RVer · 03-16-2015, 07:50 AM

I will have to check mine again, if it doesn't have one, I will make one. When I called the service dept, they told me I had to remove the 2 screws holding the panel next to the heater, remove the panel, and reach in. It was kind of like that game years ago where you had to put your foot on one color, and your hands on another. Basically have to crawl half in the storage compartment to get to it.

Camper_bob · 03-16-2015, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NY RVer

I will have to check mine again, if it doesn't have one, I will make one. When I called the service dept, they told me I had to remove the 2 screws holding the panel next to the heater, remove the panel, and reach in. It was kind of like that game years ago where you had to put your foot on one color, and your hands on another. Basically have to crawl half in the storage compartment to get to it.

Yeah, if there wasn't an access panel from the bottom bunk, I would make one. Be careful you don't cut anything that's not supposed to be cut!

NY RVer · 03-16-2015, 07:09 PM

Thanks, first thing I did when I got home this evening was check for the access door, and sure enough, there it was! That will make winterizing a breeze, compared to what I went through before the winter.

Swinepartner · 03-16-2015, 08:59 PM

Ok!!! I have water and hot water!! I haven't had time to sanitize and flush my holding tanks, but I hooked up my water hose to city water to flush out my system. I went back and closed off my hot water heater and started w/ the cold water through all faucets. Then I opened my hot water tank. And here's where it gets tricky..with my model, the HWT is behind a wall/partition and I couldn't see the bypass valve and return line valve. Once the tank was filled and tested the pressure valve, I turned on the gas and it lit as advertised. But since I wasn't getting hot water after about 30 min, I got to wondering what was wrong. I got the manual out again and went into "the basement" feeling around for the two missing valves...and voila there they were along the floor, behind a 8-10" protection wall. Turned return valve to in line, closed bypass valve and hot water now flows.

It was funny, I hooked the hose up, pushed water and the first leak was the outside shower!! Turns out the shower head wasn't even connected to the hose!!!! And it still leaks a little at the fitting...doesn't seem like it's a tight fit from hose to head. The hose wiggles inside the connection. I even tried Teflon tape on threads, but no good. Gonna call dealer about it tomorrow to see if there's a washer missing to make a tighter fit.

Thanks for. All the great advise on here and continued patience for fresh meat such as myself

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