Electrical Problems Need Help

[Labrauer]

I have a Jayco Jay Feather that my running light quite working today. I had to get the trailer inspected to get the new license plate and checked all the lights before I left home and they all worked. At the inspection station the running lights wouldn't work but the blinkers did. The inspection guy wiggled the plug at the truck and the running lights started working but then my right turn lights quit. We could get one or the other to work but not both. The guy told me I needed a new trailer plug so I did and followed the instructions on the back of the new plug and now I still have no running lights but when I turn on the left blinker the running lights blink with the blinker. I went over the plug again to check to see if I crossed any wires but they were right. I have no clue on what has happened. Feedback would be appreciated.

[Grumpy]

Bad ground.

[Edd505]

Check the ground a common issue in TT wiring. Run a ground wire do not count on grounding through the hitch.

[Swampy]

Originally Posted by Labrauer

I have a Jayco Jay Feather that my running light quite working today. I had to get the trailer inspected to get the new license plate and checked all the lights before I left home and they all worked. At the inspection station the running lights wouldn't work but the blinkers did. The inspection guy wiggled the plug at the truck and the running lights started working but then my right turn lights quit. We could get one or the other to work but not both. The guy told me I needed a new trailer plug so I did and followed the instructions on the back of the new plug and now I still have no running lights but when I turn on the left blinker the running lights blink with the blinker. I went over the plug again to check to see if I crossed any wires but they were right. I have no clue on what has happened. Feedback would be appreciated.

I agree with Grumpy, you have a bad ground and the return path is passing through the running light circuit or vise versa on the signal circuit.
Start at the connector and test the output of the TV socket with a test light. Turn on the TV lights & Test between pin1(gnd) and pin3 (running lights). If your test light does not come on, turn on the Left Turn signal and test between pin 1 & pin 5 (left turn). if still no light, TV ground is not connected. Trace wire from pin 1 at some place it should be tied to the chasis.

If you had a light on step 1, look on the TT frame, just behind the tongue there should be an electrical connection box (4" x 4"). Remove the cover and look for the white wire group. That is the Ground wire from the plug to the rest of the TT. Test from the + bat terminal to the white wire, it should light up. If you see anything obvious, re connect any loose wires in the box. Be careful not to let the black wire touch anything else as that is the +12V from the battery or TV.

At this point you will have to open light by light looking for a loose connection in the wall. While plugged into the TV with the running lights on, Take the lens off & gently pull the wire that comes out of the wall. They usually use a single3 loop of wire for the running lights, so you may see 2 greens (Hot) and 2 whites. Look for corrosion on the contact on the fixture, you may have a water leak. Assuming you find everything OK on the running light fixtures, check the tail lights for the same thing. With any luck, when you move a wire in the fixture where the problem lies, the lights may suddenly all come on. Be sure to examine that one closely.

Good hunting! If you are still under warranty, this is much better to let them handle it! ............ Jim Knoch

[Luco]

Sounds ground wire to me. Make sure ground wire on trailer and tow vehicle are attached and not corroded.

[RodgerS]

A little jiggle was probably just enough. dc Ground high on the list. Running a ground wire is a very good suggestion. You may be able to use the idea again for some other electrical dc ground problem.

By the way, following the instructions for a plug is insufficient.

Not uncommon to miswire even a simply 120 VAC plug. Again another good suggestion to use a test light and verify correct and "good" connections.

Even better IMO than a test light is to make up a separate set of leads for a multimeter to allow the multimeter to function like a dc test light, except it will also provide a readout of the dc voltage. Very easy to do and makes your multimeter more functional and just as fast and convenient than a test light.

Two, no six more ideas:
1) make a separate set of test leads into a plug for an outlet rather than stick your leads into an outlet. Very easy to get outlet readings and will allow 120 VAC voltage monitoring.
2) Make a separate set of test leads for hot skin testing and test your rv skin when hooked to a 120 VAC pedestal.
3) get a non-contact voltage tester. No, it doesn't, despite the name, directly test for voltage. But it will warn you if you have a hot skin or (long discussion)and even if you don't have a hot skin it is worth doing a real hot skin test to verify if you have a hot skin if the tester goes off.
4) get a "kill-a-watt" at home depot, very inexpensive, and allows you to plug it in at any outlet and monitor your voltage and more.
5) get a simple 120 VAC ground plug tester and check your rv grounding when plugged into a pedestal. Your RV depends on a good grounded pedestal for its 120 VAC grounding.
6) go to the no shock zone website and read everything.

Ah, ground and grounding are separate ideas sort of, as are dc and ac sort of and more, but if you get what I'm saying you are ahead on your electrical knowledge.

Sometimes I wander off subject. RS

[RodgerS]

Now if you really want to be the "guy" on dc troubleshooting, get a power probe.
http://www.powerprobe.com
Makes you into a Merlin kind of guy for troubleshooting.
I have the III, you could buy a IV, but a II is all you need.
Call it a test light on steroids.

Features & Benefits for a II from Matco Tools (but you can get off Amazon)
Test Light
Bad ground indicator
Audio Tone
Continuity Tester
Short circuit detector
Kit includes: Power Probe II circuit tester, a 20' extension cable, battery hook up clips,a cigarette lighter adapter and a 9" extended tip. The kit also includes a blow molded case
===========
Off the internet - "It was a few years ago, but I distinctly remember the day I first learned about Power Probe.

One of our technicians bought a Power Probe from the tool truck and used it to quickly diagnose an unusual lighting problem.

Power Probe 3He was so excited about how well it worked; he called a few of us over to check it out. We all played around with the Power Probe for a couple of minutes, turning on fans, lights, the fuel pump and even starting the car by activating the starter relay.

The tool’s unique troubleshooting capabilities were obvious to everyone and within a month almost every technicians in the shop owned a Power Probe and the guys who didn’t were asking to borrow mine.

The Power Probe was always a valuable tool, but there were still plenty of tests where I had to go back to the toolbox to get out my multimeter.

Power Probe has just released their most powerful version yet, the Power Probe IV, and let me tell you, my meter may never come out of the toolbox again!"