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Old 11-11-2015, 03:37 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Country_Mouse View Post
That's a hard pill to swallow when we paid $600 for a hitch that got such great reviews on this forum. ��
IMO your Equal-i-zer WDH rated at 1,000/10,000 is sized correctly for your X254, even if you should load your TT to it's 5,995lbs GVWR. With a hypothetical loaded TT weight of 5,995lbs the recommended loaded tongue weight range would be 779lbs to 899lbs (13% to 15%), your Equal-i-zer would accommodate this tongue weight range as well.

With any brand/model WDH proper adjustment is "key" in optimizing TV handling of any TT....., and your efforts at that CAT scale will insure this.

The main function of a WDH is to transfer a specified amount weight off the TV's rear axle to the TV's front axle......, the minimal weight transferred to the TT axle(s) is just a by-product of the physics (forces) taking place when the WDH is engaged.

Once you confirm your TV's "unhitched" axle weights under loaded conditions, then it can be determined if more (or less) weight needs to be transferred to the TV's front axle......, and your Equal-i-zer will do the job.

Bob
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
IMO your Equal-i-zer WDH rated at 1,000/10,000 is sized correctly for your X254, even if you should load your TT to it's 5,995lbs GVWR.

Like any WDH, proper adjustment is "key" in optimizing TV handling of any TT....., and your efforts at that CAT scale will insure this.

Bob
Maybe I need to call Equalizer. We messed with adjusting that hitch for a while with professionals. Not sure what else we could do. We flipped the hitch head,, not sure if that is what it is called. The part that comes out of the TV. Then raised up the L brackets on the A frame as high as they could go before it would of rubbed. Think it was the 3rd hole.
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Old 11-11-2015, 04:06 PM   #23
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Maybe I need to call Equalizer. We messed with adjusting that hitch for a while with professionals. Not sure what else we could do.....snip
It may come down to reducing some cargo weight in the TV, and/or TT if your goal is to stay within your present TV's specified weight limits.

I would first confirm that the correct amount of weight has been transferred (returned) to your TV's front axle....., which will take a CAT scale visit. Until that task is completed you won't know if your WDH adjustment is correct.

If you decide to contact Equal-i-zer at some point, sending them a couple of photos of your WDH with your TV/TT combo hitched would be helpful for tech support. You can even post them here at JOF for feedback as well.

Bob
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Old 11-11-2015, 04:31 PM   #24
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I agree with Bob about calling Progressive Industries (manufacturer of Equal-i-zer hitches). I have had really good luck emailing them with questions.

I still wonder if your "professional help" adjusted the hitch head tilt using washers. Bob's right again about getting that front axle weight before and after WDH engagement, but you should be able to get close using the setup instructions in the manual.

For GM trucks, the WDH spec is to return the front fender height to the unloaded height. Look at page 14 in the instructions, and more specifically Figure 14. Did your "professionals" measure the fender heights per the instructions?

Here's the manual online for your reference:

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf

Again, moving the spring bar hangers is just one part of the hitch adjustment. Take a look at the spacer rivet in the bottom of the hitch head and see how many washers are under there. The default setup is 5 washers; maximum is 8 washers. If your spring bars are not riding parallel to the frame, you need to add washers (in your case) to tilt the head down and thus increase the tension on the bars, not adjust the spring bar hangers.

Also, if you're transferring a lot of weight properly, it can be difficult to get the bars on the hangers. I use my jack to raise the rear of the truck and the front of the trailer to get the bars on the hangers without the pry tool and it makes it MUCH easier. If you're able to just swing the bars onto the hangers when the truck is holding the trailer, you don't have enough tension, and the head needs to be tilted.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:06 PM   #25
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I agree with Bob about calling Progressive Industries (manufacturer of Equal-i-zer hitches). I have had really good luck emailing them with questions.

I still wonder if your "professional help" adjusted the hitch head tilt using washers. Bob's right again about getting that front axle weight before and after WDH engagement, but you should be able to get close using the setup instructions in the manual.

For GM trucks, the WDH spec is to return the front fender height to the unloaded height. Look at page 14 in the instructions, and more specifically Figure 14. Did your "professionals" measure the fender heights per the instructions?

Here's the manual online for your reference:

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf

Again, moving the spring bar hangers is just one part of the hitch adjustment. Take a look at the spacer rivet in the bottom of the hitch head and see how many washers are under there. The default setup is 5 washers; maximum is 8 washers. If your spring bars are not riding parallel to the frame, you need to add washers (in your case) to tilt the head down and thus increase the tension on the bars, not adjust the spring bar hangers.

Also, if you're transferring a lot of weight properly, it can be difficult to get the bars on the hangers. I use my jack to raise the rear of the truck and the front of the trailer to get the bars on the hangers without the pry tool and it makes it MUCH easier. If you're able to just swing the bars onto the hangers when the truck is holding the trailer, you don't have enough tension, and the head needs to be tilted.
Thanks, I have the manual. Overwhelming to me to e honest. The "professionals" did not measure the fender heights but I did. They could not get a noticeable change. 1/2" at the most.

I knew about the spacer washers but it does not make any sense to me until I see visually how it works. They did not touch those. I've attached a photo of the hitch and what I think are the washers? It of course is not hooked to trailer currently. We used the power jack to swing the bars on and off.


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Old 11-11-2015, 06:15 PM   #26
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It may come down to reducing some cargo weight in the TV, and/or TT if your goal is to stay within your present TV's specified weight limits.

I would first confirm that the correct amount of weight has been transferred (returned) to your TV's front axle....., which will take a CAT scale visit. Until that task is completed you won't know if your WDH adjustment is correct.

If you decide to contact Equal-i-zer at some point, sending them a couple of photos of your WDH with your TV/TT combo hitched would be helpful for tech support. You can even post them here at JOF for feedback as well.

Bob
Unfortunately reducing cargo isn't possible. All we had in the TV were passengers and dogs and a few snacks and electronics for kids. NOTHING else. As far as trailer not much to reduce there either. We packed pretty light. No generator since we had full hookups. The only thing that ended up being unnecessary was the EZ up. The rest was just essentials like clothes, bedding and food and kitchen supplies, toiletries and trailer supplies like hoses, etc.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:00 PM   #27
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Country_Mouse,

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snip...... The "professionals" did not measure the fender heights but I did. They could not get a noticeable change. 1/2" at the most.....snip
That raises the question......., how much initial TV "front" fender rise were you trying to recover from? (TV/TT hitched/WDH dis-engaged) - (TV unhitched) = ?? inches

Please note; when adjusting the WDH using fender heights the TV's front fender height (suspension) is the main focus..., the TV's rear fender height is what it is. In most cases a 1"-2" rear fender "squat" is normal even after a properly adjusted WDH. The objective is to return the TV's front suspension back to it's "unhitched" condition thus maintaining the TV's specified steering/braking and handling characteristics.

Remember, your CAT scale results confirmed that your WDH distributed 300lbs (4,700lb - 4,400lb) off your TV's rear axle of which 200lbs (2,640lb - 2,440lb) was returned to the TV's front axle and 60lbs (4,780lbs - 4,720lbs) went to the TT axle......, thus the WDH is doing it's job.

Bob
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:37 PM   #28
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Country_Mouse,


That raises the question......., how much initial TV "front" fender rise were you trying to recover from? (TV/TT hitched/WDH dis-engaged) - (TV unhitched) = ?? inches

Please note; when adjusting the WDH using fender heights the TV's front fender height (suspension) is the main focus..., the TV's rear fender height is what it is. In most cases a 1"-2" rear fender "squat" is normal even after a properly adjusted WDH. The objective is to return the TV's front suspension back to it's "unhitched" condition thus maintaining the TV's specified steering/braking and handling characteristics.

Remember, your CAT scale results confirmed that your WDH distributed 300lbs (4,700lb - 4,400lb) off your TV's rear axle of which 200lbs (2,640lb - 2,440lb) was returned to the TV's front axle and 60lbs (4,780lbs - 4,720lbs) went to the TT axle......, thus the WDH is doing it's job.

Bob
Well, Fenders were 35.5" to top of wheel well equally front and rear with unloaded vehicle. When loaded and coupled it was 36.5 in front and 33 in back approx. When connected to wdh it really didn't change much. I think we got it to 33.5 in back and 36 in front.

I appreciate the comment about 1-2" squat being normal. I was expecting them to be equal again. The front looked so much higher than the rear and it just seemed like the rear was too close to the tires.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:56 AM   #29
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Okay, now we're getting somewhere.

It looks like 4 washers in that hitch head, maybe 5 (2nd pic with red circle; I can't see it really well, I'm on my phone). As Bob said, the goal of the WDH is to return weight to the front axle. You want that front fender measurement with WDH engaged to be as close to what it was unloaded as you can get. And yes, .5 inch makes a significant difference.

All of this is assuming you have the hitch head at the correct height. Disconnect and level the trailer (measure from the frame to ground front and back and use the tongue jack to make those numbers equal), then measure the trailer coupler height. Use the holes in the shank to set the ball as close to that height as you can get; IMO if you can't get it exact, go up with the hitch head, not down, so the ball may be slightly taller than the coupler.

As far as understanding the hitch head tilt vs raising the spring bars, visualize it this way. If you tilt the hitch head down toward the trailer, the ends of the spring bars where they hang on the trailer tongue will move down. This creates more tension on the bars, thus distributing more weight. The same can be accomplished by raising the spring bar perches on the tongue. Physically both of these adjustments do exactly the same thing; increase tension on the bars. The difference is that the more out of parallel with the frame you get by raising the perches, the less effective the sway control will be. One added washer to the hitch head tilt is roughly equivalent to one set of holes on the spring bar hangers.

So if your bars are sitting flat in their perches and are parallel to the trailer frame and you're still not getting enough weight transfer (your front fender measurement is still higher than when unloaded) then your next adjustment should be to tilt the head further by loosening the angle set screw (NOT raise the spring bar perches) by loosening the bolts that attach the head to the shank and adding a washer. Tighten everything back down (not torqued down tight yet), reconnect, and re check your front fender height. Repeat until you have either reached your unloaded front fender height or you've reached 8 washers. When you get to the desired fender height, then you torque everything down to specified level and clean up. If you get to 8 washers and you still don't have enough tension, THEN you begin adjusting the spring bar perches. But remember you want the spring bars to ride as flat against those perches as possible because that's a large part of the integrated sway control function.

Take some time and really read and try to understand those instructions. Also take a few minutes and watch the hitch setup videos on YouTube. The ones produced by "etrailer.com" and Progressive Industries are the ones you want to pay really close attention to as they are the best IMO. Both videos are also available on the actual websites if you don't want to get lost in YouTube.

I believe you have a good hitch, and if set up correctly it will serve you well for a long time. It is difficult to get there, but you can do it.
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:05 AM   #30
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Camper_Bob, Thank you! That totally makes sense to me now. I will (and have my husband too) go watch those videos. I have read and reread the manual and it just wasn't totally sinking in.

Let me ask you this...If we get this hitch set up correctly, and it takes more weight off of the TV rear axle, does that count as weight off of the rawr? Or when they make that rating are they only referencing pre wdh? If we redistribute 300 more lbs off the rear axle we could avoid buying a new TV.

I have been shopping and all I can find that gives us any more payload and fits us all comfortably is the 3/4 ton Suburban. Few and far between used ones and none cheaper than $17K.

Our 8950# tow rating Expedition seems to be right at the top of SUV tow ratings.
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:25 PM   #31
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Camper_Bob, Thank you! That totally makes sense to me now. I will (and have my husband too) go watch those videos. I have read and reread the manual and it just wasn't totally sinking in.

Let me ask you this...If we get this hitch set up correctly, and it takes more weight off of the TV rear axle, does that count as weight off of the rawr? Or when they make that rating are they only referencing pre wdh? If we redistribute 300 more lbs off the rear axle we could avoid buying a new TV.

I have been shopping and all I can find that gives us any more payload and fits us all comfortably is the 3/4 ton Suburban. Few and far between used ones and none cheaper than $17K.

Our 8950# tow rating Expedition seems to be right at the top of SUV tow ratings.
The other Bob (Rustic Eagle) would have a better answer to that question. I don't believe that to be the case though. I'm sorry I don't have an answer on that, but I've never bothered to look into it because I've never been that close on GAWR.

I agree that the Expy is generally at the top of the stack as far as towing/hauling capacity in the SUV category, or at least they have been. I was looking for a full-size SUV for my wife a while back, and the Expys kept my eye the longest. We're not in the market any more, but I wanted something that could tow our trailer in a pinch. The Expy would do it, but it wouldn't be too happy about it

Unfortunately, I think you're right. Since they don't make the Excursion any more, and the 3/4T Suburbans are not readily available except for fleet orders (and GM has threatened to stop making them too), that sticks you with a CC pickup for towing capacity, but then you don't have enough passenger space. So then you're stuck with a "chase" vehicle for hauling bodies. Not necessarily a bad situation, but could make it a lot more difficult for long trips.

There is something else though. I don't know a whole lot about it, but have you considered a van? One or two on here, and possibly a few over on rv.net have advocated towing with a large capacity van. I know we used a Ford many years ago. It was a 15-passenger van and it had the Triton V-10 I believe. It should have enough payload, but to my knowledge, they're not generally designed to pull a lot. The gearing isn't right IIRC? I dunno, someone else will have to address that in more detail...

I do know that I saw a gentleman pulling a pretty sizable Airstream with his full-size Ford work van. He was a contractor and traveled a lot. He lived in the Airstream and his van was full of all his tools and such so he worked out of the van. I don't know about what his weights and measures were, but he seemed to be very comfortable with his setup.
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:59 PM   #32
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Country_Mouse,

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snip....... Let me ask you this...If we get this hitch set up correctly, and it takes more weight off of the TV rear axle, does that count as weight off of the rawr? Or when they make that rating are they only referencing pre wdh? If we redistribute 300 more lbs off the rear axle we could avoid buying a new TV........ snip
The RAWR is the vehicle manufacture's "fixed" maximum axle weight limit based on the configuration of the vehicle in question...., and this same specified RGAWR limit doesn't change with the incorporation of a WDH. What the WDH does is aid in "reducing the weight" placed over the TV's rear axle do to the effect of the TT's loaded tongue weight placed on the hitch ball.

But "yes", if it is determined (via CAT scale) that your TV's front suspension requires an additional 300lbs transferred to it off the TV's rear axle, then based on your initial CAT scale results you would be right at your TV's specified RGAWR.

NOTE: Using fender heights will get one in the "ball park" when adjusting a WDH, but the CAT scale refines/confirms the WDH adjustment process. With this in mind....; dropping a TV's front fender height "below" it's unhitched height, or increasing the weight transferred to the TV's front axle (suspension) "above" it's unhitched weight..., under these conditions the front suspension will be compromised effecting TV ride and handling.

Hope this helps.

Bob
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:22 PM   #33
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I spoke with Equalizer today. Going to try adding a washer or two. He said to visualize it like a teeter totter that weight from front axle was going to rear axle. I don't think tongue weight and cargo in TV are exceeding limit. If I took the curb weight and divided it in two I'd have approx. 2750# per axle. We only had about 500# of passengers (including pups) in 2nd and 3rd row seats. That would be 3250# over rear axle plus tongue weight. Scale said 4700# over rear axle without wdh. There is no way our tongue weight was 1400#! Even at 15% of a fully loaded trailer (which we weren't ) tongue would be only 900#. Saying this "out loud" helps me work through it in my head. 😉

Soooo, what I think is happening is that weight from the front axle has shifted too much to the rear and we need to put more back on the front. I realize that is what the wdh is for but seeing it in real life action makes it sink in.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:25 AM   #34
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I spoke with Equalizer today. Going to try adding a washer or two. He said to visualize it like a teeter totter that weight from front axle was going to rear axle. I don't think tongue weight and cargo in TV are exceeding limit. If I took the curb weight and divided it in two I'd have approx. 2750# per axle. We only had about 500# of passengers (including pups) in 2nd and 3rd row seats. That would be 3250# over rear axle plus tongue weight. Scale said 4700# over rear axle without wdh. There is no way our tongue weight was 1400#! Even at 15% of a fully loaded trailer (which we weren't ) tongue would be only 900#. Saying this "out loud" helps me work through it in my head. 😉

Soooo, what I think is happening is that weight from the front axle has shifted too much to the rear and we need to put more back on the front. I realize that is what the wdh is for but seeing it in real life action makes it sink in.
Be careful with your logic in dividing the vehicle weight in half to get axle weights. This is why you need to weigh EACH AXLE SEPARATELY on your cat scale. VERY few vehicles are actually balanced front and rear even when they're empty. Start putting stuff/people in the truck, and weights can be all over the place.

Furthermore, the rear axle will usually hold more weight than the front axle. Think about it; most of the weight you will add to a vehicle is mostly over the rear axle. The front axle primarily holds the engine, not much weight generally gets added to the front axle during normal usage. For example, in my truck, the rear axle GAWR is 1000 lbs higher than the front axle, and in my wife's XTerra, the rear GAWR is 300 lbs. over the front.

Bob is right about the fender heights. They will get you close, but the scale will tell the absolute truth. You need a front and rear axle weight with and without the trailer (using the 3-pass method described in the towing thread sticky) to get the true numbers.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:49 AM   #35
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Be careful with your logic in dividing the vehicle weight in half to get axle weights. This is why you need to weigh EACH AXLE SEPARATELY on your cat scale. VERY few vehicles are actually balanced front and rear even when they're empty. Start putting stuff/people in the truck, and weights can be all over the place.

Furthermore, the rear axle will usually hold more weight than the front axle. Think about it; most of the weight you will add to a vehicle is mostly over the rear axle. The front axle primarily holds the engine, not much weight generally gets added to the front axle during normal usage. For example, in my truck, the rear axle GAWR is 1000 lbs higher than the front axle, and in my wife's XTerra, the rear GAWR is 300 lbs. over the front.

Bob is right about the fender heights. They will get you close, but the scale will tell the absolute truth. You need a front and rear axle weight with and without the trailer (using the 3-pass method described in the towing thread sticky) to get the true numbers.
Absolutely!

Country, take another look at my weight spreadsheet that I posted earlier in this conversation. I expect our empty weights would be similar. Ford changed rear axles on the Expe in '03 but I doubt the rear weights changed by a huge amount.
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Old 11-13-2015, 01:18 PM   #36
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Be careful with your logic in dividing the vehicle weight in half to get axle weights. This is why you need to weigh EACH AXLE SEPARATELY on your cat scale.......snip
X2

Bob
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Old 11-13-2015, 01:50 PM   #37
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Duly noted. Thanks guys.

Still shopping for that Excursion....
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