HELP: water pump issue

AugerN · 07-09-2015, 06:33 PM

Second outing and just hooked up. The water pump won't quit running. It doesn't matter if I have it set to FW or city fixtures setting and no faucets on. It continues to run. I'm afraid it is going to burn up the pump. Amy advise would be appreciated!

**Crabman** · 07-09-2015, 06:51 PM

Will it pump any water or is it airbound?

certified106 · 07-09-2015, 06:52 PM

Do you have water in the fresh water tank? If so open the faucets and let the water flow until there is no more spitting or popping from air bubbles and then shut the faucets and see if it shuts off.

AugerN · 07-09-2015, 07:19 PM

Water pumps fine and otherwise acts normal.

AugerN · 07-09-2015, 07:45 PM

Thanks all! I'm not sure where the issue lies but here is what I did. The FW tank was low on the drive out. So it must have had some issue with that. The confounding issue was that it didn't stop despite turning the valves to "city fixtures". But I did go fill the FW tank then switch to "normal". The pump ran for some time but eventually quit. Then I switched back to city fixtures. Ran the kitchen sink and it came on. It continued despite closing all taps. It ran for another 3-4 minutes then finally stopped. I have no clue! I like diagnostic challenges but I can only imagine if someone bought one of these who doesn't like such problems and actually expected things to work and work simply. Sheesh!

AugerN · 07-09-2015, 07:48 PM

The water worked fine. It would have been on indefinitely had I not noticed it and consulted you guys to ask for help.

cgbrooks · 07-09-2015, 07:53 PM

Actually when you are on city fixtures the pump should be turned off at the panel.

AugerN · 07-09-2015, 07:58 PM

I tried turning both the toggle switch in the water compartment and the bathroom off and it didn't seem to matter. Or do you mean switch the pump off some other way?

cgbrooks · 07-09-2015, 08:05 PM

Try turning off the pump with the switch inside the camper. The switch in the plumbing compartment is tied to the same switch inside. Only use one of the switches, preferably the one inside, should have an indicator light in it or next to it. See if this solves the issue.

Luvthenw · 07-09-2015, 08:07 PM

I'm not sure about your rig but mine has 2 toggle switches for the water pump. One is on the panel where you can check the tank levels in the fifth wheel the one is in the service bay.

It sounds like one of the switches is turned on.

Luvthenw · 07-09-2015, 08:10 PM

Forgot to mention that when the pump is powered it will run until the lines are pressurized.

AugerN · 07-09-2015, 08:13 PM

Again, thank you guys for the help! I think it was more a matter of the pumps needing to fully pressurize. I learn something new (many new things) every day with this rig!

Scoutr2 · 07-09-2015, 09:06 PM

You may have an air bubble in the hot water heater. If that's the problem, the air acts like an accumulator and the pump is trying to pressurize the tank.

Shut off the HW heater and open a HW faucet to let some cold water in the tank. After the water cools down, open the relief valve on the HW heater (outside) and see if you can purge the air.

You could also have a bad pressure switch on the pump. It can be adjusted, but it's tricky and best done by the dealer. My brand new Outback did that the first day at home. Had to make the 90 mile trip back and they just replaced the pump. Never had a problem after that.

MadDad · 07-09-2015, 09:49 PM

My RV has 3 switches. You have to shut it off with the one you turned it on with.

ctbailey · 07-10-2015, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scoutr2

...
You could also have a bad pressure switch on the pump. It can be adjusted, but it's tricky and best done by the dealer. My brand new Outback did that the first day at home. Had to make the 90 mile trip back and they just replaced the pump. Never had a problem after that.

Man, I hope a brand new class A doesn't have a bad pressure switch. I'm leaning more to the air bubble somewhere.

Subaru297 · 07-10-2015, 03:19 PM

Is the pump a shurflo 4008? If so it may just need adjusting. It has a pressure switch and a bypass valve that can be adjusted as well.
Ours will run and run as it pumps water through the bypass valve. We have a big accumulator tank (4gallons) and I think this exacerbates the problem. I bought a new pump thinking the old one crapped out and the new one did the exact same thing.
I fiddled with the adjustment screws for a while and got it working but the pump really makes a racket just before it shuts off.

Jmooney · 07-10-2015, 05:53 PM

The comments about the pump switches is important.

Many TTs have more than one switch ( convenient )

But they are usually in parallel , so any one switch on, the pump is on. All switches must be off for the pump to be off (. They are not lazy man like two light switches in your home )

AugerN · 07-10-2015, 08:37 PM

Even with both switches in the down position, the light stays on on both switches.

SmokerBill · 07-10-2015, 09:02 PM

My pump started running way to long after shutting off a faucet. I replaced the check valve and the water pump valve assembly and it fixed the problem. The water pump valve assy. is made of rubber or silicone, and had become hard compared to the new one. It wasn't sealing as it should.

AugerN · 08-02-2015, 10:54 AM

So we had this happen again. This time it continues despite trying the above. Neither of the switches make a difference. I finally pulled the wire from the pump so it won't run!

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