I searched, I swear! How to apply levels?

EXTremist · 09-09-2011, 07:11 PM

Hi All,

Going mod crazy with the Trimetric finally installed and a master cutoff for the battery; plus fixed dealer crappy wire nut install on battery...one black line actually pulled out easily. I used a waterproof splice I got from Fleet Farm and it's real nice now.

Anyway...to the question at hand: I have stick on levels and aside from figuring where I want them, how do I know my rig is good and level so when I stick them they are "correct"?

In other words, where is the best place to actually lay a carpenters level and get a true reading so I can stick with confidence? Maybe I'm being a bit too concerned with it but I get slightly different readings with my small levels inside depending on where I place them.

Should I use the floor in both directions? Currently in camp driveway and think, I have her pretty spot on.

Thanks!

Mark Fisk

Terry · 09-09-2011, 08:02 PM

Hey Mark...I always use a small stick level just inside the door. That way I can stand on the outside and not shake the trailer. It seems to get pretty good there.

clutch · 09-09-2011, 10:11 PM

I always use the round bubble for the freezer. When the refrigerator is level the camper is level.

Terry · 09-10-2011, 06:35 AM

By the way - no one here will flame you for not hitting the search button. We might point you back to a few threads - but never think you will get flamed here for asking anything! We don't play that game here

Seann45 · 09-10-2011, 07:30 AM

Hi Mark.. Terry is right this is a flame free zone...
now for leveling I have a 24" carpenters level that I use at the mid point of the RV on the lino floor. first back to front then side to side. Once you have the RV square, without the stabilizing jacks, then put on your outside bubbles..
Seann

Rustic Eagle · 09-10-2011, 08:20 AM

Mark,

Never had good luck with the outside bubbler levels, I think the sun always did mine in (what I get for buying the cheap ones!). I use my old trusty 24" carpenter's level when I set up.

Did the TriMetric last year myself, here's my install: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ight=trimetric

Bob

EXTremist · 09-10-2011, 08:46 AM

Thanks everyone! All good ideas and yes, I'm certain the sun will ultimately ruin them, so maybe will wait until the beginning of next season to put them on. Sun still shines in the cold cold winter here in MN.

Thanks Bob - you can bet I studied your Trimetric install thoroughly before I ever even started!

knuts1 · 09-10-2011, 07:01 PM

I use a level just inside the door also and I have mounted a permanent one on the back side of the trailer that also folds out to level both ways with the same level.

EXTREM are you from the BIR aria? I am in the Mound area.

EagleHawk · 09-10-2011, 07:43 PM

I'm curious but why does it matter if you level your unit before applying stick on levels. I've used the 'cheap' ones for a few years and I just apply them regardless of if my unit is level. A level is a level. The point is that if the unit is not level when you apply them once you use them to level it they'll show level. It's worked for me. I do use a small torpedo level from time to time to check if the stick on ones are still effective. When they're not I replace them.

Lady Fitzgerald · 09-10-2011, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EagleHawk

I'm curious but why does it matter if you level your unit before applying stick on levels. I've used the 'cheap' ones for a few years and I just apply them regardless of if my unit is level. A level is a level. The point is that if the unit is not level when you apply them once you use them to level it they'll show level. It's worked for me. I do use a small torpedo level from time to time to check if the stick on ones are still effective. When they're not I replace them.

Either I'm not understanding you or you've been lucky when putting on the levels. If the trailer is not level when you put on the stick-on levels, how do you know where to position the stick-on levels?

What everyone else has been doing is using a level on the inside floor or in the refrigerator (the most critical part of the RV when it comes to needing to be level), then applying the stick-on or other kinds of levels on the out side to simplify leveling the trailer. Once the trailer is level, the outside levels are installed with the bubble set at dead center. That way, the outside levels will show if the inside is level. It eliminates the need to run inside to check the level then running back outside to adjust the jack(s).

One popular set up has a bulls eye level screwed to the top of the tongue in sight of the jack. It makes setting the front to back level easier. Other locations for levels is on the front and back of the RV (TT or 5er) to check for side to side level. The reason for having both front and rear levels is to ensure the RV isn't twisted.

I've seen giant levels on the front of RVs that consist of a fluid filled curved tube with a buoyant ball inside that is easily visible from inside the tow vehicle. It's purpose is to allow the tow vehicle driver to see when the TT or 5er is level when backing it up onto leveling blocks.

Murphie · 09-10-2011, 09:59 PM

I just use a cheap level from the dollar store. I keep it in my front storage compartment on the floor. When I open the door to get the crank handle out, I take a quick glance at the level. Oddly enough i've picked up the habbit of opening the bathroom door about 90 degrees and check to see if it swings on it's own, one way or the other. It's actually a great indicater for me. I can tell very quickly if the trailer is out of level just in opening the door, and when it's level it , you can instinctively tell. I've also used the level on my iPad with great success if it's near by.

Terry · 09-11-2011, 07:06 AM

Just something to think about when talking level --- you don't want perfectly level. Each trailer is a little different - but I "choose" where I want my ac to drip. I also keep my rear end a little lower because it helps the water not run out of the shower. The fridge is also a little more forgiving that you might think. 3 degrees Side to side and 6 degrees front to back. I think that comes to 8 or 9 inches out of level side to side - which is going to be very uncomfortable for the occupant.

EXTremist · 09-11-2011, 07:49 AM

Thanks - good advice. I've had my AC come down the gutter on the "wrong side" where I would have preferred the back corner rather than the awning side etc.

mcfarmall · 09-12-2011, 04:25 PM

Use a four foot masons or carpenters level on the floor in both the X (tongue to bumper) and Y (drivers side to passenger side) axis. When you use a longer level, you get a better average than you would with a torpedo level.

Now for the fun part. Take your reading at the front floor area then compare it to the rear floor area. When you find that they are different, then you walk outside, slap your sticky levels on, and realize that "close enough" is just fine.

I stuck mine on the front drivers side corner of the 23B. That way I can walk back and check them when I'm setting up alone.

kcconawa · 09-12-2011, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald

I've seen giant levels on the front of RVs that consist of a fluid filled curved tube with a buoyant ball inside that is easily visible from inside the tow vehicle. It's purpose is to allow the tow vehicle driver to see when the TT or 5er is level when backing it up onto leveling blocks.

That is what I use. I do a lot of work camping volunteer work, parked on grass, parking lots etc. in places not designed for camping. Each mark on the big level represents one 2x8 under the wheels. Sure speeds up leeling process, pull in where will be parked, count the lines, back up a little, put down the boards and "BINGO" you are close on side to side.

Milehi · 10-25-2011, 07:07 AM

[ The fridge is also a little more forgiving that you might think. 3 degrees Side to side and 6 degrees front to back. I think that comes to 8 or 9 inches out of level side to side - which is going to be very uncomfortable for the occupant.[/QUOTE]
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According to my manual, it says 3 and 6 "inches" side to side and front rear respectively rather than 3 to 6 "degrees".

clutch · 10-25-2011, 11:15 AM

My luck with the giant liquid filled levels has not been as good as some people state. I find that the ball travels real slow and sometimes will take several minutes to settle in. I much prefer a bubble. You will also notice that the slides will cause the trailer to lean their way. On our 5er I learned to leave the side with slides about an inch high.

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