If you had a chance to design a Jayco-- what would it look like?

[canuckowner]

I often have lists of things I would love to see in our next TT and not all are possible with current floor plans... if I was designing a Jayco this is what I would like to see:

1) King size bed options for most TT floor plans. (In 2013 Dutchmen has added this option to many of their TT floorplans, I would love to see Jayco follow suit.)

2) More fireplace options in TT. I know this one is controversial as many people prefer the extra storage to having a FP. But we usually stay on electrical sites right up to freeze-up and use electric heaters and would love to have the option for FP with heat in the entertainment centre of most models. (Sunset Trail has this in their floorplans, bunkhouse models still have fireplaces that along with the TV rotate to the living room or into the bedroom). IMHO there should be an option for FP in all master bedroom plans; but again this is MY wish list! ;-)

3) I would love to see Jayco Eagle copy Cougar High Country 319 RLS floorplan for 2014. But again, put in a king bed option.

Anyway, that is all I can write as I need to get to work... but I wanted to get the ball rolling and think this could be an insightful thread. Interested to see what others would add if it were them at the drafting table. (please specifiy if you are talking about TT, 5er, hybrid, MH, etc.)

[Seann45]

I would give TT's the same floor plan that 5ers get.. I don't like or want a 5er but sure wish I could get some of those floor plans

[pm1stnau]

I'm still too new to RVing and owning a TT in general, but, if I could design a Jayco it would most definitely have a comprehensive, thorough, easy-to-understand, user-friendly owners manual that could actually benefit the owner of a Jayco TT. That's where I would start.

[Doug]

They should design all suspensions such that you have a decent sewer outlet height. My 165 Sport is extremely low and I expect to run into sewer drainage problems a lot more than I would prefer.

I would design a roof system that attaches on the perimeter in such a way that would make replacing roof material a DIY project in 1 day.

14" wheels would be smallest standard wheel

Some sort of gate drain valve standard on all water heaters.

Water lines insulated from factory.

Styromfoam support under shower stalls in the smaller TT's like mine. I think there is 2-2x6's running under the bottom.

[Rustic Eagle]

Design considerations:

1) All trailer frames/suspensions should at least come with shock mounts.

2) All trailer suspensions should utilize wet bolts.

3) Don't locate roof gutter joints within awning area.

[cekkk]

Units with slides should have a sensible way to operate them manually when a failure occurs.

Our particular model comes with dry TW of 15%, then puts the full-width closet and all underneath storage in the front. I'm fighting excessive TW all the time, loading up for travel with all the weight I can get to the rear area to offset some of that excess. And I still make very little use of the lower storage compartments.

[Doug]

"Our particular model comes with dry TW of 15%, then puts the full-width closet and all underneath storage in the front. I'm fighting excessive TW all the time, loading up for travel with all the weight I can get to the rear area to offset some of that excess. And I still make very little use of the lower storage compartments."

That's a good one too. I am in the same situation.
How does one stay within the recommended weight distributions when the design is such.

My dry weight is estimated at 2850lbs and toungue weight of ~425 lbs. That is 15% already before I store anything in the front compartment.
Doesn't make sense. I guess I'll load it out and see what happens. What other choices are there?

[Crabman]

The axles and tires should at the LEAST be rated to cover the full GVWR of the trailer, and not rely on tongue weight to carry some of it.

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Crabman

The axles and tires should at the LEAST be rated to cover the full GVWR of the trailer, and not rely on tongue weight to carry some of it.

True Crabman.
I have a GVWR of 3500#, so I have about 650# of cargo I can carry.
But, if I put that weight in the front cargo hold, then my tongue weight is going to be above the 15% target?

I will obviously try to put what I can in the bed area and such, but my main cargo hold is up front.

[cekkk]

Crabman, that's true. But the axles have plenty of capacity. My problem is the dry TW plus an expected or reasonable load puts me up to or beyond the 1400 or 1500# spring bars that are available out there. My bottom mount coupler won't allow me to get a Reese with 1500#, had to go Equalizer with a 1400# limit. So I have little choice but to load as much of our "stuff" as possible behind the axles to offset some of that TW and bring it into proper limits until we arrive at our destination.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by cekkk

snip..... My problem is the dry TW plus an expected or reasonable load puts me up to or beyond the 1400 or 1500# spring bars that are available out there. My bottom mount coupler won't allow me to get a Reese with 1500#....snip

Hmmm, never had a problem with my 1,500# bars with my bottom mount coupler (lots of clearance). Oh, Reese does have 1,700# bars.

I actually prefer Jayco's design of the bottom mount couplers, especially on the taller TT frame set-ups.

Bob

[Crabman]

To clarify, here`s where I`m coming from on this. My TT has GVWR of 7500lbs. The axles are rated 7000 lbs, 3500 each and the tires I believe combine at about 7200 lbs. Now we all know that 10 to 15% will be on the tongue so all the weight is not on the tires or axles. But I do not like to cut things that close, which is why I suggest the axles, tires, springs should be rated to carry the full GVWR of the trailer. Perhaps a bit of overkill but that`s the way I would build one.

[Mikebo]

Stop using "rubber" roofs and stop the mandatory options. I will soon be a former Jayco motorhome owner because the Greyhawk doesn't have a fiberglass roof and because it does have a number of required options that I don't want.

Mike

[Makjps]

I think they should add a decent bumper or better yet a rack add on like I believe Heartland does on all models to hold bikes or a rack, lift kits should be standard with double step, bring back the decent tub depth like in 2012 or before in showers, bring back 2011 or older bath sinks with stopper that works, don't ever chinz on bed mattresses like many other makes are doing, make dinette more roomy for sitting, add step up with storage for each bunk end, add frig fan for faster cooling, create a breeze fan or something better than what is there now in bath.

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Crabman

To clarify, here`s where I`m coming from on this. My TT has GVWR of 7500lbs. The axles are rated 7000 lbs, 3500 each and the tires I believe combine at about 7200 lbs. Now we all know that 10 to 15% will be on the tongue so all the weight is not on the tires or axles. But I do not like to cut things that close, which is why I suggest the axles, tires, springs should be rated to carry the full GVWR of the trailer. Perhaps a bit of overkill but that`s the way I would build one.

Got it now CM,
I am a little slow at times lol

I thought you were trying to help us with our weight distribution problem, but you were just adding design comments "-)

Your design basis would solve my problem, that's a good one.

Best regards,
Doug

[cekkk]

Rustic, I bought a Reese WD on the advice of Cliff's Welding in Mesa. Took the TT in for installation, went to breakfast and rec'd a call that that hitch wouldn't fit well on my coupler and suggested the Equalizer, which maxed at 1400.

Crabman, maybe I misunderstood your post's intent. I too like safety margins. That's why I don't like maxing out on TW. Used to be many things were over-engineered for additional safety. My SIL, an engineer, says many things still are. But I find so many products that get cheaper and cheaper every model until they barely do their job that I'm leary.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by dougtoms01

Got it now CM,
I am a little slow at times lol

I thought you were trying to help us with our weight distribution problem, but you were just adding design comments "-)

Your design basis would solve my problem, that's a good one.

Best regards,
Doug

Originally Posted by cekkk

Crabman, maybe I misunderstood your post's intent. I too like safety margins. That's why I don't like maxing out on TW. Used to be many things were over-engineered for additional safety. My SIL, an engineer, says many things still are. But I find so many products that get cheaper and cheaper every model until they barely do their job that I'm leary.

My bad, I posted my comments right after yours which made for a bit of confusion. It was intended as a reply to the OP, how I would design one.

[katgar05]

I would like to see a 60 X 80 bed.

[dg1971]

Replace the standard 751 compartment locks with better quality locks keyed different on each RV so your neighbors key will not fit your locks.

[canuckowner]

Originally Posted by dg1971

Replace the standard 751 compartment locks with better quality locks keyed different on each RV so your neighbors key will not fit your locks.

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