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Old 06-10-2015, 12:20 PM   #1
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My p3 brake controller did me dirty

OK guys, maybe I`m doing something wrong with my P3 brake controller or maybe it is shot. The last 2 trips I noticed my brakes were not up to par on the TT, luckily they were close trips. If I hit the manual slider they would grab a bit, but not enough and braking in general was not that great. I jacked up each wheel and with the truck plugged in and the brake pedal depressed was able to turn all four wheels with my hands.

Visions of grease soaked or defective brakes as I have read about here ran through my Crabby mind. I then pulled the pin on the emergency brake and all 4 were holding, could not turn with my hands. Then my thoughts turned to the P3. I unplugged it and rounded up my old Hopkins controller I had years ago but kept as a spare, plugged that in and Voila I once again had brakes at least here in the yard, have not been out for a spin yet. I had the P3 set way on high and tried all boost levels on the last trip with no improvement. But there are NO error codes, which I assumed the P3 would show if there was an issue but that`s why I`m asking the experts here about this. Is my controller kaput? Should there be an error code? Are my settings wrong or is there a way reset/reboot the P3? Could something else be the issue? I have no problem buying a new one and truthfully hope that is the issue and not the trailer brakes. I can plug a new one in and install in a matter of minutes. I might also add the P3 is approaching 6 years old.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:36 PM   #2
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If you apply the manual lever all the way over when connected to your trailer, what is the voltage reading on the P3?
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:11 PM   #3
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If swapping the P3 brake controller for the Hopkins fixed the problem then you have a faulty or maladjusted P3.


Compare the output of the two units and you will have conclusive proof.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:30 PM   #4
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Or it's possible that there was a bad connection where the P3 plugged into the truck wiring. Have you tried the P3 again after the Hopkins? Often with electrical devices, just unplugging and plugging back in will fix a problem.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:33 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by RVhiker View Post
If you apply the manual lever all the way over when connected to your trailer, what is the voltage reading on the P3?
8-8.5 when applying the manual lever. When I go to the "help" menu then "troubleshoot" it says 13.5 or so volts.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:35 PM   #6
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Or it's possible that there was a bad connection where the P3 plugged into the truck wiring. Have you tried the P3 again after the Hopkins? Often with electrical devices, just unplugging and plugging back in will fix a problem.
I just tried it again and I can still spin the wheel with the P3 plugged in and the brake pedal depressed. It has the vehicle specific harness that plugs into the power center under the dash, as does the Hopkins.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:48 PM   #7
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Lifetime warranty. Call them and tell them what's happening. Most likely they will send you a new one or have you swap if for a new one at your local dealer.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:52 PM   #8
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Crabman, maybe one of these will help.

Can a P3 be reset?
Can the Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller be Reset | etrailer.com

P3 Limited Lifetime Warranty
http://www.tekonsha.com/support/warr...e_Warranty.pdf

P3 Installation Manual
http://www.tekonsha.com/content/down...ion/N90195.pdf
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Thanks for those links I had lost the manual...
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Old 06-10-2015, 02:05 PM   #10
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Expanding on RVHikers question, when I go to the troubleshoot menu and "output voltage" it goes to 8.8 when using the manual lever but stays on 0.0 when depressing the brake pedal.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:37 PM   #11
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I might be wrong here, but I thought the P3 was perpetual in that the more forward force exerted on the unit the harder the brakes are applied. So a still vehicle would only exert a minimal voltage if any. Now the fact that you noticed an issue while driving does bring up concern as well and I would further diagnois with tech support to confirm brake voltage output.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:05 PM   #12
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I might be wrong here, but I thought the P3 was perpetual in that the more forward force exerted on the unit the harder the brakes are applied. So a still vehicle would only exert a minimal voltage if any. Now the fact that you noticed an issue while driving does bring up concern as well and I would further diagnois with tech support to confirm brake voltage output.
That`s a good point I had not thought of, but would there be zero braking when stopped with the P3?
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:11 PM   #13
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... I jacked up each wheel and with the truck plugged in and the brake pedal depressed was able to turn all four wheels with my hands....
When the vehicle is stopped and the brake pedal is depressed, the P3 should put out 2 - 3 volts; this is just a holding voltage to hold your trailer stopped. So it's unusual if all is working that you can turn the wheels easily when the brake pedal is depressed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman View Post
8-8.5 when applying the manual lever. When I go to the "help" menu then "troubleshoot" it says 13.5 or so volts.
8.5 volts sounds like a reasonable voltage when the manual lever is all the way over. 13.5 volts is just telling you your truck's current voltage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman View Post
Expanding on RVHikers question, when I go to the troubleshoot menu and "output voltage" it goes to 8.8 when using the manual lever but stays on 0.0 when depressing the brake pedal.
If you keep holding the brake pedal down (for like 10 seconds) , it really should go to 2 - 3 volts. Does it?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman View Post
That`s a good point I had not thought of, but would there be zero braking when stopped with the P3?
A holding voltage of 2 -3 volts should be seen.

If you can round up a voltmeter, it would be extremely revealing to have your truck running, trailer umbilical plugged in, and to check the voltage at your umbilical plug between ground and brake positive. It ought to be something near that 8.5 volts you see on the P3 display when the lever is all the way over. We just really need to see for sure what voltage is getting to your trailer's braking system.

Crabman, are your brakes self adjusting? If so, do you think your brakes adjusters are working? If not self-adjusting, how long since you had them adjusted? Also, if you turn up the P3 output - like when you adjust it to get a good stop - do you get more than 8.5 volts, or is that what it is when turned all the way up?
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:13 AM   #14
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I will do some more investigating soon and report back on this. I can say the brakes have never been adjusted, but I believe they are self adjusting.
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:11 PM   #15
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Subbed to see the outcome as I have a P3 as well.
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Old 06-11-2015, 01:19 PM   #16
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I once saw that you should not pull the emergency trailer brake when the P3 is plugged in, that it damages the controller. Not sure if its true but I figure I would throw it out their.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:04 PM   #17
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Well after work I hooked up the trailer and took a test ride with the old Hopkins controller. I had all the brakes a man could want, could lock em up with the manual lever and had too much with the pedal and the power turned up. It is a cheap controller and not real smooth when stopping but at least I know the brakes work and there must be an issue with the P3. BTW how can you tell if you have self adjusting brakes, do you have to pull the drum? I pulled the rubber access cover on the back but could not see an adjusting screw in there but it might be me....
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:54 PM   #18
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Well after work I hooked up the trailer and took a test ride with the old Hopkins controller. I had all the brakes a man could want, could lock em up with the manual lever and had too much with the pedal and the power turned up. It is a cheap controller and not real smooth when stopping but at least I know the brakes work and there must be an issue with the P3. BTW how can you tell if you have self adjusting brakes, do you have to pull the drum? I pulled the rubber access cover on the back but could not see an adjusting screw in there but it might be me....
There is not a screw, there is an adjusting star wheel; you would use a brake spoon or a screwdriver to turn the wheel. In the manuals section of this forum there's a Dexter axle manual that has lots of info about adjusting brakes.

The self-adjusting brakes on my trailer have two access ports at the bottom of the backing plate; I think maybe but I'm not sure that all Dexter self adjusting brake backing plates have the two access ports. Also, the 2010 Jayco Jayflight sales brochure(link) makes no mention of self adjusting brakes. Dexter recommends that manual adjusting brakes be adjusted about every 3000 miles.

Crabman, if you adjust the voltage all the way up on your P3 and set it on boost 3, you still don't have any brakes with the P3?
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Old 06-11-2015, 04:27 PM   #19
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There is not a screw, there is an adjusting star wheel; you would use a brake spoon or a screwdriver to turn the wheel. In the manuals section of this forum there's a Dexter axle manual that has lots of info about adjusting brakes.

The self-adjusting brakes on my trailer have two access ports at the bottom of the backing plate; I think maybe but I'm not sure that all Dexter self adjusting brake backing plates have the two access ports. Also, the 2010 Jayco Jayflight sales brochure(link) makes no mention of self adjusting brakes. Dexter recommends that manual adjusting brakes be adjusted about every 3000 miles.

Crabman, if you adjust the voltage all the way up on your P3 and set it on boost 3, you still don't have any brakes with the P3?
Mine also has the two access ports at the bottom of the plate with rubber boots that you pop out, that`s what I was looking into with a flashlight. The generic Dexter manual I received with the trailer simply says "Dexter electric brakes may be equipped with the forward self adjust feature'' so not for sure just what I have. I do know that the 2010 Jayflight G2 29BHS was equipped with self adjusting brakes, because former member and moderator Healthi had issues with hers. I guess I should just take it to someone who knows about brakes and have it gone over to be sure, I`ve replace disc brake pads before but that`s about as far as my limited brake experience goes...


As for the P3 on boost, I have not tried it on Boost3 here in the yard but on the road I did not have the usual braking power on any of the boost settings that I used to have...
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Old 06-11-2015, 05:21 PM   #20
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Well, it sure sounds like your P3 has crapped out on you. But it has a lifetime warranty, I think. The manual lever on my P2 quit working after about nine years and Tekonsha sent me a new unit.

Since you have two access holes, I'll bet (sometimes I lose my bets) you have self-adjusting brakes. Darn strange that Jayco doesn't advertise that in the 2010 brochure.

Good idea to have someone take a look at your brakes to make sure all is well; maybe time to re-grease wheel bearings, too.
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