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Old 10-21-2010, 08:02 AM   #1
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My worse fear.

I winterized my fifth wheel several weeks ago at the family farm and while at it I put several bounce sheets in cupboards and under the sink area.

My neighbour just left for the south about a week ago and when he picked up his MH from the storage area he found an infestation of mice. I then went out and bought some mouse poison that come in small packs that don't have to be opened as the varmints will do the job themselves.

I attended the farm yesterday and found that critters had somehow got in my rig and droppings were found in a couple of drawers. I had put steel wool in any cracks that I could find so have no idea where they are getting in. My brother-in-law says that mice are very bad this year and the farm cats are not doing their job!!!!

I hope this poison will at least get rid of any usual suspects that have managed to infiltrate my home away from home.
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:13 AM   #2
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I winterized my fifth wheel several weeks ago at the family farm and while at it I put several bounce sheets in cupboards and under the sink area.

My neighbour just left for the south about a week ago and when he picked up his MH from the storage area he found an infestation of mice. I then went out and bought some mouse poison that come in small packs that don't have to be opened as the varmints will do the job themselves.

I attended the farm yesterday and found that critters had somehow got in my rig and droppings were found in a couple of drawers. I had put steel wool in any cracks that I could find so have no idea where they are getting in. My brother-in-law says that mice are very bad this year and the farm cats are not doing their job!!!!

I hope this poison will at least get rid of any usual suspects that have managed to infiltrate my home away from home.
What do the bounce sheets do?
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:50 AM   #3
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I guess it's one of the old wives tales. They say if you use Bounce sheets, or mothballs, or cloves,that mice don't like it and leave. I can tell you the mothballs don't work or at least not up here.
I was concerned that the mouse poison would make the unit stink after a fashion but was assured that they dry up fairly fast and leave no odour.
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:30 AM   #4
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I hate those meeses to pieces. They can do a lot of damage, even eating the insulation around electrical wires. I have given up trying to keep them out. When the temp drops, they come in, and I set traps to kill em. Eventually, they are all killed, and all is well for the rest of the winter.
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:58 PM   #5
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I live in the NorthEast- so temps drop fast and mice explore early and to date- Bounce sheets and mothballs are golden. I found that plugging in ultrasonic mice/rodent electric outlets also helps as well as setting several traps to catch them "cold". I am also going to sprinkle rodents repel around the outside once it is in the fair ground storage building along with mothballs. As much as it might sound as over kill- Dryer sheets- 240 sheets for $8, mothballs- box for $4.50, rodent ultrasonics (one time investment) - 4 for $16, mouse traps (quick set reusable/one time investment) 3 for $9, mouse repel- $7.....for a grand total of apx. 45.00 for the first season followed by apx. 19.5 yearly. Cheap money in the long run. Oh yeah, the ultasonics are for pre-storage- used until the very last minute.

Another point people miss all the time- setting your Trailer on grass or near bushes or trees increases the potential greatly. If you plan on storing in those locations, try waiting to the last possible moment- allowing mice to already "bunk" down elsewhere.

So.....keeping that all in mind, and minus Murphy's Law- I feel fairly confident. Okay, still a bit nervous!
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:59 AM   #6
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I also store my RV on a family farm. With the popup I never worried much about mice and never had a problem. Now that I made the investment in a new RV I am concerned. I'm hopeful that no problems in the past will lead to no problems now. My Uncle keeps his 5th wheel there as well and has had no issues. Maybe because we park them near a pole barn that provides easier access and partial heat for the mice? I will definately try the dryer sheet idea do they have to be bounce brand or will a store brand suffice?
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:17 PM   #7
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I swear by bounce.....a little more expensive but the scent lasts and is stronger. Try using the mothballs around the tires and hitch......and try traps or poison also. What it comes down to is how much is too much. In my books, there is never too much. I like the idea of the poision as it dries them out fast, but who knows where they may crawl. I will set up some traps (easy set) and put cardboard under them so when they bleed out it will by on that on not the floor or rug. I also as I said above will use the rodent repel. Hell, if I had my way I would let owls live on my roof.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:10 PM   #8
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This is our first year with the Jayco. Last year, we stored our small travel trailer inside. This year, the dealer we bought the Jayco from is storing it. Its going to be on a field at the back end of the dealer lot.

I used MOST of the 240 sheets of Bouce that I bought. Ted put them in all of the closets, I sprinkled more on the floor around the bed and the sofa. I also tucked the Bouce sheets inside the fold away bed on underneath and on top of the mattress as well as in between the sofa cushions.

The dealer is pulling our unit out on Tuesday and I'll be there on Wednesday to check it out. I was thinking about getting the mouse poison in the packets. I don't know what it is called but we found some behind the sofa. Its from the previous owners. Out unit is in pretty good condition for an 8 year old trailer so I am thinking that those packets help as well.
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:30 AM   #9
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This is our first year with the Jayco. Last year, we stored our small travel trailer inside. This year, the dealer we bought the Jayco from is storing it. Its going to be on a field at the back end of the dealer lot.

I used MOST of the 240 sheets of Bouce that I bought. Ted put them in all of the closets, I sprinkled more on the floor around the bed and the sofa. I also tucked the Bouce sheets inside the fold away bed on underneath and on top of the mattress as well as in between the sofa cushions.

The dealer is pulling our unit out on Tuesday and I'll be there on Wednesday to check it out. I was thinking about getting the mouse poison in the packets. I don't know what it is called but we found some behind the sofa. Its from the previous owners. Out unit is in pretty good condition for an 8 year old trailer so I am thinking that those packets help as well.
I hope you are right about those packets, the Bounce sheets didn't seem to do the trick although I was only able to use what sheets I had left.

My 5th wheel is out at the family farm and is not that convenient for me to check out as often as I would like, so I must get out there and check it again in the next couple of weeks.
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:00 AM   #10
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I hope you are right about those packets, the Bounce sheets didn't seem to do the trick although I was only able to use what sheets I had left.

My 5th wheel is out at the family farm and is not that convenient for me to check out as often as I would like, so I must get out there and check it again in the next couple of weeks.
Just USE the RV .... head S for the winter... we still have a few places left here at Slab City... lots of Alberta people out my east window.
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:12 PM   #11
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I am heading out to the farm in the morning to check out if I have any more mice. I bought some more Bounce plus I bought some bleach to put around my tires(not on) and around my landing gear. I was also reading about another product called "Cab Fresh" and was wondering if anyone had heard of this and where to obtain it other than on-line?
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:13 PM   #12
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Just USE the RV .... head S for the winter... we still have a few places left here at Slab City... lots of Alberta people out my east window.
Where is Slab City?
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Old 11-05-2010, 09:39 PM   #13
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.

For years and years, we used moth balls, bouncy sheets, steel wool and hand spray foam cans in open under belly holes. Even used posion in small cans (under its chassis) - so only small critters would eat the stuff. They would eat the stuff instead of hunting for food inside our TT. Still, those critters got in "every year". Once they find an opening, its under belly fiber glass insulatuon was drilled into like soft swiss cheese. They were so bad under our Jayco, they actually chewed across thick 10 guage electric brake wiring and got into its infloor heating vents. If they wanted inside or past something, they found a way.

For pictures, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0593.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0594.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0601.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0603.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0592.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0599.jpg

The only method to eliminate "critters" from entering the under belly of our 2006 Jayco 29FBS trailer was to manually remove its under belly materials, remove its pink fiberglass sheets (that hold water anyway) and Spray Foam it all. re: 2 lbs Closed Cell approx 3.5-4.0" thick by a certified Spray Foam company. Thus, sealing all critter entry holes. And, for tigtening up its floor.

For pictures, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0700.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0695.jpg

So far, NO critters since our under belly spray foam upgrade. To me, all trailers must has spray foam within their walls, within their roof and under their belly. And for service line entry points, their over sized access holes are both steel mesh and spray foam protected as well.

Good luck in your "critter" protection upgrade ideas. Mass spray foam (2 lbs - Closed Cell) works great under our Jayco - at our seasonal camp site.

.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:12 AM   #14
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Spike99, that looks like the answer for sure. What did it cost? Did you reinstall that membrane on the underbelly after the spray or did you leave it open?
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:36 AM   #15
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The cost of Spray Foam is different within each region. For me, I took 10 ft (trailer width) and 24 ft (trailer length) with 3.5-4.0" thick measurements and called the many Spray Foam companies within my area. Some didn't want to touch a small 240 sq ft job. Others wanted me to bring my TT into their large warehouse size bays. re: Where they Spray Foam the insides of refrigerated tractor trailers. Since we don't tow our seasonal site TT, those companies we crossed off my list. Of the 6 companies in my area, I was now down to 2 different companies. One guy wanted to charge me travel + application. The other guy was doing a "drive by" our seasonal camp site and decided not to charge me travel - since he was driving by anyway. Do call around because each company has different application estimates. Some of the estimates I got was actually "double" - and I had to take my own TT to them. Man, they must make huge profits on others - who don't do in-depth cost estimate research.

For my seasonal site Trailer's under belly Spray Foam upgrade, it took 4 weekends to complete. The first 2 weekend was for me to manually remove our TT's under belly materials, pull away the pink fibre glass insulation and "tape off / wrap off" sensitive under belly areas. For example, slide rails, slide motor, re-do its under belly wiring into 90 degree plastic loom protected runs, tape around its holding tank to floor area (to stop foam from getting between tanks and under floor gap area), etc. etc. I also had to mask off areas to stop over spray. The 3rd weekend was for Spraying. He came in at 4:30 PM and completed by 7:30 AM. After spraying, they recommend clearing the area for 24 hours. For the specialized guy, I made the environment very comfortable. Thus, he spent more quality time - while laying on his back - to spray upwards. If wondering, I used to mask off vehicles before they got painted. Master painter guy comes in, does his specialization, then leaves. I used the same quality of pre-spray preparation skills for the Spray Foam guy as well. The 4th weekend was used for "trimming and clean up". For example, removing over spray plastic areas, removing plastic off motors, remove plastic off tank valves, rack the ground, etc. etc.

In thinking back and knowing the positive results, I'd do it again. IMO, all trailers should have 2 lbs Closed Cell spray foam in their walls, inner roof cavity and under belly areas. And all under belly service lines should be put into plastic loom &/or protective PVC piping as well. Thus, reducing critter entry and the damage they do create - once they get under the under belly fabric layer.

For more pictures, see the my PM (Private Message).

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Old 11-06-2010, 08:59 AM   #16
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Spike99, that looks like the answer for sure. What did it cost? Did you reinstall that membrane on the underbelly after the spray or did you leave it open?
If wondering, I left the under belly of our TT open. From a factory design perspective, the black fabric layer is a floor for critters. Once they get on top of that layer, they can walk around the entire under belly area (all 240 sq ft). And, can "drill upwards" into its under belly heat floor vents and over sized holes (for service lines). With no fabric layer, no floor for them to walk on / stand on. They may stand on some of the steel cross frame or corner areas and try to "dig" upgrades. With open belly area, I simply crawl under my TT every 6 months and perform a visual inspection. If I see digging, I pack that area with steel screen and re-foam that area with hand held can. Many critters don't like chewing throw steel. Once they hit steel, they often look for different (easier) shelter to invade. Since our TT is for seasonal site and we never pull our TT in the rain (personal safety thing), our TT doesn't need that under belly fabric layer.

Hope this helps in your research as well...

.
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:54 AM   #17
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If wondering, I left the under belly of our TT open. From a factory design perspective, the black fabric layer is a floor for critters. Once they get on top of that layer, they can walk around the entire under belly area (all 240 sq ft). And, can "drill upwards" into its under belly heat floor vents and over sized holes (for service lines). With no fabric layer, no floor for them to walk on / stand on. They may stand on some of the steel cross frame or corner areas and try to "dig" upgrades. With open belly area, I simply crawl under my TT every 6 months and perform a visual inspection. If I see digging, I pack that area with steel screen and re-foam that area with hand held can. Many critters don't like chewing throw steel. Once they hit steel, they often look for different (easier) shelter to invade. Since our TT is for seasonal site and we never pull our TT in the rain (personal safety thing), our TT doesn't need that under belly fabric layer.

Hope this helps in your research as well...

.
Spike99, thanks for your great post and pictures. I think this is the way to go but it looks like a lot of work that I never thought of. I still wonder how the foam will stand up while traveling. I hate to do this and then have to put that membrane back on so that critters have a chance to use it as place to ride. I must check out the place that sprayed my truck box and see if they do this type of insulation. They are close by and easy for me to bring my unit to them.
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Old 11-06-2010, 10:13 AM   #18
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Seems to be lots of Spray Foam companies within Calgary area. For a map and lots of drill down details, surf:

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=h...2b21d0b019ad35

Note: Only use 2 lb. Closed Cell for external Spray Foam areas. Open Cell dissolves with water exposure and 1 lb. foam shrinks too much. 2 lbs CC is best for external / high moisture applications. Also, Spray Foam will NOT stick to anything shiny. If water beads off the surface (like shinny tin - used in TT under floor heat ducts), Spray Foam won't stick to it. For these areas, simply screw steel screen (like in screen window material) to it. Thus, allowing "grip" for Spray foam. And use Gorilla tape - NOT shiny box tape for protecting gaps (like between tanks and under floor gap area). Only use shiny box tape and shiny plastic sheets on external over spray areas. Areas where over spray will be removed afterwards.

Also... Tiger company ( http://www.tigerfoam.ca/ ) makes a DIY Spray on kit. After buying the kit and travel costs (for pickup + estimated 20% wastage), I found is was only "slightly" LESS expensive then hiring a professional contractor - with their own stuff. IMO, the spray foam used by professional contractors is "much - much" better (compared to retail DIY kits - like Tiger).

Hope this helps as well...

.
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Old 11-06-2010, 10:35 AM   #19
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Seems to be lots of Spray Foam companies within Calgary area. For a map and lots of drill down details, surf:

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=h...2b21d0b019ad35

Note: Only use 2 lb. Closed Cell for external Spray Foam areas. Open Cell dissolves with water exposure and 1 lb. foam shrinks too much. 2 lbs CC is best for external / high moisture applications. Also, Spray Foam will NOT stick to anything shiny. If water beads off the surface (like shinny tin - used in TT under floor heat ducts), Spray Foam won't stick to it. For these areas, simply screw steel screen (like in screen window material) to it. Thus, allowing "grip" for Spray foam. And use Gorilla tape - NOT shiny box tape for protecting gaps (like between tanks and under floor gap area). Only use shiny box tape and shiny plastic sheets on external over spray areas. Areas where over spray will be removed afterwards.

Also... Tiger company ( http://www.tigerfoam.ca/ ) makes a DIY Spray on kit. After buying the kit and travel costs (for pickup + estimated 20% wastage), I found is was only "slightly" LESS expensive then hiring a professional contractor - with their own stuff. IMO, the spray foam used by professional contractors is "much - much" better (compared to retail DIY kits - like Tiger).

Hope this helps as well...

.
Thank you.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:08 AM   #20
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Where is Slab City?
In SE California in the Imperial Valley. about 90 miles east of Palm Springs, and about 90 mi NE of San Diego. The nearest town is Niland Ca. I am here and set up for the winter....
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