No hot water

[Robbbyr]

It is difficult to say for 100% certainty, but I think I have identified the valves. Since I cannot see the heater itself I cannot tell the hot from the cold.

But the two valves marked Hot or Cold should both be inline with the pipe with the bypass remaining closed as it appears to be in the picture.

[Michelemar]

So they are correct they way they are

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Michelemar

Here it is

In the second picture it appears the valves are in the proper position. If there is still no hot water from the taps you have some other issue seemingly stopping the flow.

There have been other stories about brand new Jaycos coming from the factory with hots and colds reversed and other piping problems. You might be an unlucky one too.

Since the burner is working, and hot water flows from the relief valve when you manually open it, somehow water is unable to get out of the heater into the regular hot water piping.

When you get it figured out please post back, it will be interesting (and helpful to others) to hear the results.

[canadiankid]

Another reason for a good PDI! Keep us posted. Super curious.

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by Michelemar

So they are correct they way they are

Are you checking this through the bathroom sink? Did you try turning on the cold water, maybe it is plumbed backwards?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Are you checking this through the bathroom sink? Did you try turning on the cold water, maybe it is plumbed backwards?

Good point, it has happened to others!

[TWP723]

Sounds to me the hot water valve at the heater (the one that gets bypassed) is defective. You can turn these valves when broken and they feel like they're opening. Thinking maybe it's stuck closed, which would mean the valve is shot. Just guessin'..


Good luck and keep us posted!

[Michelemar]

What are the 2 values at the water pump under the kitchen sink suppose to look like.

[TWP723]

Open everything but the bypass and try it. Are you using the city connection or the tank?

[Michelemar]

Using tank

[namusmc65]

Make sure the two valves going into and out of the water heater tank are turned so they are running inline with the pipes. The bypass should be turned 90 degrees to that line. Most newer units that have a fireplace and are 30 amps service have a switch located somewhere so that you can only run the hot water heater or fireplace, but not both at the same time. I believe you said you were on ground power though so that would not apply. Good luck and let us know. If none of that works, you may very well have a defective valve.

[TWP723]

Try closing off the cold side of the tank. See if you get water coming out of the faucets.

[Michelemar]

Dumb question but all I have on the monitor panel is one switch that says heater. It doesn't have two- one for gas and one for electric. Could this mean that I don't have the option for my heater to work off electric?

[TWP723]

Should say "water heater". Is the switch lit in red?

[Michelemar]

yes.

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by Michelemar

Dumb question but all I have on the monitor panel is one switch that says heater. It doesn't have two- one for gas and one for electric. Could this mean that I don't have the option for my heater to work off electric?

Yes, that is a possibility. Mine has two switches one for Gas WH and one for Electric WH. I can run them bother together is needed for more/faster water heating.
However, if I remember correctly you said you had Hot Water when you opened the pressure valve on the water tank. Therefore, the water heater is working properly. This is a plumbing issue of some type.

[gypsmjim]

OK, here's a real crazy idea. Buy a couple gallons of bottled water, or distilled, or whatever - just clean drinkable water. Add some non toxic food coloring so the water is a deep color. Close the valve from the fresh water tank and open the valve to the winterizing line and put the line into one of your colored gallons. In other words, what you would do to put antifreeze in the system. Then turn on the pump, open faucets, open the bypass, close the bypass, etc. In other words troubleshoot where the green colored water is going. Is it going into the HW tank and coming out? If so, does it come out the HW faucet? If its not going into the HW tank, where is it going?

[ALJO]

To diagnose the HW System:
Follow the Pex line from the pump to the WH cold intake (written on the WH) and be sure all valves are in line on the Pex line (means The are open)
Follow the WH hot line (written on the WH)and be sure the Valve is inline with the Pex line (means valve is open. Between those two lines coming of the WH there is also a bypass valve (should be closed) means not inline with the Pex line.
Be sure WH is running (switch lite on and burner is going or WH is warm or hot.
Let the closed Hot water tap run closest to your heater. Check for hot water.
You can also try the cold tap if you have no hot water from the hot tap.
After you have tried and checked all this report back on this forum.

[short kid]

If you have an outside shower, make sure both faucets are turned off. Also check inside shower that both faucets are turned off, not with the shower head valves off.

[Gone campin]

Originally Posted by Michelemar

Dumb question but all I have on the monitor panel is one switch that says heater. It doesn't have two- one for gas and one for electric. Could this mean that I don't have the option for my heater to work off electric?

Didn't you say you got hot water out of the relief? If so, it is heating. Do you have the propane on? Did you ever try to run the cold for a bit and see if it gets hot? If they switched the lines, it would...