Simple Newbie Leveling Question

[borninblue]

As we get ready for our PDI and first outing in the next couple weeks I was thinking about a leveling question. I have the Anderson Levelers, but the pads themselves seem rather thin. I was under the impression that the more you build up the pads from the ground to the jacks the more stable the trailer will be. So, can you suggest what size wood I should place if any on top of the leveling pads? Also what size wood do you use under the tongue jack when leveling? Simple and silly questions, but I like to be prepared.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

I cut some 2x6's into 9" long pieces and store them in small totes. I use these for leveling side to side, under the jack and under the stabilizers if on soft ground or if I need some height.

[Paintinfool3]

A few things to consider . First is to get the trailer as level side to side as possible with leveling blocks under wheels. Second I put x chocks between wheels on trailer to insure no rolling when I disconnect from tow vehicle. Third I assess whether or not I am going to have to drop front of trailer to obtain front to rear level and how far before putting anything under tongue jack. if you have too much height to begin with you wont be able to lower it far enough once you get it loose from truck. Then I remove from truck and pull truck forward. raise or lower tongue jack to obtain front to rear level, decide then how many pieces of wood I need under each corner and lower my corner stabilizers. I have 2 sets of leveling blocks and could probably use a 3rd at times. And I do like lifted and use 2x6 or 2x8 for blocks as I need extra. I actually built a jackstand for my tongue jack and once it engages in it the trailer is secure in front. I had one time it slipped on 2x6s and fell off the blocks and the only thing that stopped it was the safety chains so now I have x chocks in place and my jackstand before I ever disconnect from truck

[SouthCo]

For under the tongue jack and stabilizer jacks I use 6x6x14 wood blocks and they work well. But leveling, like Paint said, is done under the tires and not the jacks. Level by placing blocks (plastic or wood) under the tires of whatever side is low. Then place wood blocks under the stabilizer jacks and tongue jack and extend them.

Edit: You don't mention your camper, so if it's a motorhome disregard what I said. Some of those level without blocks under the wheels I believe...

[Paintinfool3]

Heres a pic of my tongue jackstand it works great and I can adjust to a number of heights so my jack doesn't extend that far

[borninblue]

Thank you all for the information. In my haste, I incorrectly labeled tge thread. This should have been a "stabilizing" question refering to under the camper's jacks. For reference I have a Jayco 27BHS.

[Paintinfool3]

well we tried to fix them all lol

[borninblue]

Is it safe to say when I am parked on a slope, I need to place large wood blocks under the rear stabilizer jacks to level from front to rear?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[oldmanAZ]

You NEED to be sure your trailer is secured/chocked etc. so it won't move.

Putting blocks under the stabilizer jacks helps to reduce the amount the jacks need to be extended. That helps to a degree to take out some of the trailer shaking when moving around in the trailer. Are those blocks for the stablizers 'needed'? IMO, no, but they are helpful.

[JFlightRisk]

Your front to rear leveling should all be able to be done with the tongue jack. If the rear stab jacks are not long enough to touch the ground at that point, then some blocking will bring the ground up to them. The corner stab jacks are only meant to stabilize the TT from rocking around when you're inside.

[borninblue]

Thank you, so the tongue jack adjustment should always be able to get me level front to rear then?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[JFlightRisk]

That's correct. Side to side level first, chock it, and front to back level last, then drop the stab jacks, and you can put boards or Lynx Levelers under them if they're a long ways to touch down, Reduces the amount you have to crank them, also.

[borninblue]

Thank you. I have the Anderson jack pads, but they seem thin. I may head to HD today to pick up some boards. Just 2x4 and cut them short to size of jack pad?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[JFlightRisk]

2X4's will work, 2X6's may give a little more stability give the width of the pad on the bottom of your jacks. Maybe HD will give you some scrap cut-offs.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by borninblue

Is it safe to say when I am parked on a slope, I need to place large wood blocks under the rear stabilizer jacks to level from front to rear?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

As oldmanAZ mentioned, yes you can place blocks under the stabilizer jacks so they don't need extend all the way. Also doesn't matter if the same thing is needed in the front. Just all depends on each individual campsite. Under the stabilizer jacks I place a 4x6x~10 on top of a 2x8x~12. This is for fairly level sites. Sometimes it may only be the 2x8 under the stabilizer at on end, and a taller stack at the other end.

Paintinfool gave a great explanation on how to level and unhook when arriving at the campsite. The one thing I do disagree with is the use of the X-chocks to prevent the trailer from rolling. They are not designed to be used as such. You need true wheel chocks in place before unhooking the tv. Only place the X-chocks once the trailer is leveled front to rear. If I remember correctly, the instruction sheet states they can be damaged if in place when raising or lowering the trailer (front/rear). There have also been posts about trailers rolling away that only had x-chocks in place, no wheel chocks.

[borninblue]

Thank you! Sorry for the foolish question but what does "~10" mean?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[norty1]

I think that is the length in inches.
Here is a pic of what I use.
Made from scrap lumber.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oldmanAZ]

The squiggly line that looks like this '~' means approximately.

So need-a-vacation was saying he used a piece of 4"x6" lumber that is cut to approximately 10" long and is placed on top of a piece of 2"x8" lumber that is cut to approximately 12" long.

[borninblue]

Perfect thank you! At HD now getting them cut up.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[need-a-vacation]

TY Norty and Oldman!

Blue,

They explained it exactly. Measurements are from memory. As long as they are larger than the stabilizer base, your good!

Hope you got all you need for blocks.