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Old 07-17-2014, 08:03 AM   #1
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Question Surge Protector

We are looking to purchase a 2012 StarCraft Autumn Ridge 278BH and have been reading hints about what you should initially purchase. I have been looking at surge protectors and they have for 30 Amp and 50 Amp. I initially thought all TT would be the same voltage. So, how do you tell which one you have?
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:08 AM   #2
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If you have a 30amp trailer get the 30amp surge protector. Same for the 50 amp.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:12 AM   #3
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But

Yes, I already knew that, but how do you tell which one you have????
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:13 AM   #4
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3 pin = 30 amp, 4 pin = 50 amp.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:15 AM   #5
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Thank You

Okay, gotcha. Thank you very much. Why are all not the same ?
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:19 AM   #6
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30 amp (3 pin) is a single 120V 30 amp circuit.
50 amp (4 pin) is 2 - 120V 50 amp circuits. This provides the power for two air conditioners and 240 V capability for an RV with a clothes dryer.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:23 AM   #7
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Now I understand

Thank you for the explanation. I suppose most TT are 30 amp then. The larger ones and some of the massive Motor Homes are probably the 50 amp. Thanks again for the quick and detailed answer.----Mike
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:09 AM   #8
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Cobblestone,

Many folks on this site have suggested picking up a 50Amp male/30Amp female "dog-bone" type adapter, as well. Because most trailers have 30A systems, the 30A receptacles at campgrounds can get worn and loose-fitting. As a result, the connections can get hot and damage your shoreline plug. Many folks will use the dog-bone and plug into the less-worn 50A outlet, instead. You'd then plug your 30A EMS into the 30A side of the dog-bone. You can find them at CW, Wally's, and most big-box hardware stores for around $20.

Just passing along the suggestion.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:20 AM   #9
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I'd like to second Brownie's excellent suggestion. I have used our 50 to 30 amp adapter many times because the 30 amp outlet, as Brownie said, was burnt or loose or just looked funky.

With a 30 amp trailer - as mine is - it is often necessary to manage the electrical load. For example, for our trailer if the air conditioner is on and the refrigerator and water heater are on electric, we can't run the microwave. What we will do is to turn off the water heater electric until we're done with the microwave.
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:15 AM   #10
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Thank you

Thank you guys for the suggestions. As always, any and all are most appreciated......
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:25 AM   #11
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I did read this post though :
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A 30 amp cord should not carry more than 24 amps if the load on the cord is continuous and of 3 hours or more duration (80% of 30 amps). The adapter has no internal fuse so the adapter and the 30 amp trailer power cord are overfused at 50 amps, especially if the trailer does not have a 30 amp main breaker or fuse. The trailer load should never exceed 30 amps and the trailer electrical panel must have a 30 amp main. Also, the amperage of the cord must be reduced depending on the ambient temperature of the environment of the cord (summer in Las Vegas or Arizona, for example).
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:27 AM   #12
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Hu?!
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Old 07-18-2014, 12:55 PM   #13
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Be aware that many CG's charge extra if you are plugged into the 50a plug. Many don't care but keep it in mind when plugging adapters in.
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Old 07-18-2014, 01:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobblestone1820 View Post
I did read this post though :
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A 30 amp cord should not carry more than 24 amps if the load on the cord is continuous and of 3 hours or more duration (80% of 30 amps).
I haven't heard this and in my experience I can run as long as needed my trailer's AC and all other loads (except the microwave as previously noted) and not have a hot trailer umbilical - assuming the outlet I'm plugged into is in good condition.


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The adapter has no internal fuse so the adapter and the 30 amp trailer power cord are overfused at 50 amps, especially if the trailer does not have a 30 amp main breaker or fuse. The trailer load should never exceed 30 amps and the trailer electrical panel must have a 30 amp main.
Well, when I use a 20 amp outlet in my house, 200 amps service is being supplied to that 20 amp outlet. The 20 amp breaker protects the circuit, as does the 30 amp main breaker in my trailer. If there were a short in the trailer umbilical, my uneducated non-electrician opinion is that the 50 amp breaker would open. So there is no safety problem evident to me. Not having to deal with the 30 amp breaker in the campground box can actually be a big help, as the 30 amp breakers are often abused by having to "blow" often and are weak and blow prematurely.

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Also, the amperage of the cord must be reduced depending on the ambient temperature of the environment of the cord (summer in Las Vegas or Arizona, for example).
I myself have not found this to be a problem; if it were a problem, it would be a problem if plugged into a 30 amp circuit or into a 30 amp adapter plugged into a 50 amp outlet.

As my signature line indicates, there are lots of opinions on the internet.
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:34 PM   #15
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The adapter has no internal fuse so the adapter and the 30 amp trailer power cord are overfused at 50 amps, especially if the trailer does not have a 30 amp main breaker or fuse.
Unless altered after manufacture all 30 amp RV's have a 30 amp main breaker. The 50 amp breaker will trip if the power cable or the adapter (dogbone) has a fault. Which is extremely unlikely assuming they are visually in good condition. The pedestal breaker (50 amp or 30 amp) is not for your protection. It is only for the protection of the campground equipment.

While theoretically your comment has some merit in the real world it would be classified as an unjustified concern.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
While theoretically your comment has some merit in the real world it would be classified as an unjustified concern.
I agree with your statement that this is nice to know but not something to worry about.
My personal experience is that most pedestal 30a breakers will trip way before you draw full 30a due to breaker wear tear from excessive use from campers. When I had a 30a rig and I lost power, it was usually the pedestal breaker that tripped. If I used a dogbone on a 50a feed, the camper breaker would trip as it should.
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:58 PM   #17
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Autumn Ridge

Hope you enjoy your Autumn Ridge. My son and his family bought theirs new in 2012 and they just love it. I'd be jealous but for 2 of us our Jayfeather is big enough. (The grandkids bring their parents with their own campers so they don't need to sleep with us.)
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:25 PM   #18
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Just my 2 cents as an electrical contractor....as others have said, if your panel in the TT has a main like most do, that is your protection in the event of an over load. there would be no problem using a ul listed adapter going fro 50amp-30amp. But then again what do I know
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:08 PM   #19
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To reference an earlier post not all 50a TT's are dual AC
Jayco seems to have realized that there is a need to separate out power better. I have a 2014 33BHTS with single AC and a 50a service.
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