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Old 08-26-2011, 12:39 PM   #21
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Seann,
I agree about the cutters. But you gotta come prepared, I'm just hoping to increase my odds. Putting it inside is the best answer.
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:37 PM   #22
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Anyone here ever try to cut a cable with bolt cutters? You would do better with a pair of dikes, chewing at it a few strands at a time. A standard padlock, however, will fail under a decent pair of bolt cutters. You would have to use one of those circular padlocks to defeat bolt cutters.

Nothing short of a pair of armed guards will keep a determined thief from stealing a surge arrestor. The lock and cable will discourage the casual thief who sees an opportunity. Better is to install a hardwired version inside.
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:03 AM   #23
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Any self-respecting thief
Isn't that a contradiction of words .
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:53 PM   #24
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http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...k-shield/18337

I bought one of these at the ST Louis RV show yesterday for $85.00. Seemed like a good investment. I had to replace an inverter in a popup camper in the past because of a bad power pole at the campground.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:25 PM   #25
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We worry as much about over/under voltage and miswired receptacles as much as surges. We like camping along the beach, so that means lots of state parks and other campgrounds in the salt air with buried power lines in salt water saturated sand - not the best environment for electicity. We use the above mentioned Progressive Industries unit secured with a premium quality bike lock (which seems to be pretty bolt cutter resistant, but if somebody really wants it, there is not much you can do). I think it has saved our A/C compressor motor from low voltage damage, and one time while camping in the Keys, a thunderstorm took out the surge protector. A couple of other Rv's lost their convertor/charges during that storm. We had to send the Progressive unit back to the factory to be repaired, but there was no charge, and they had back to use right away.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:14 AM   #26
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OK, I am completely sold on the EMC. I am going to go with the Progressive Industries one, but I have not decided about the hard-wired one or portable. Now to my newbie question for the people who have the hard-wired one. Did you just cut the power cord and mount the EMC in the cord compartment, or do you have to put it somewhere else on the rig? I am completely new to RVing and am not sure of way around any hidden compartments at the moment. But I am competent doing electrical things, so a cord splice is within my capabilities.

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:22 PM   #27
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I just installed my Progressive Idustries EMS HW30C in my TT and it went pretty well.(I'm no electrician, just handy) Easy really other than working in tight spaces. All I had to buy was 4'($2/ft) of 30a 600v power cable(easier to work with than Romex) removed shore line power cord from back of TT breaker panel(take pics/video of existing wiring connections/locations if needed before removal). Rerouted to EMS mounting location(since no space in existing area), hardwired to EMS, stripped both ends of 4ft. cable, hooked one end to EMS, other end back to breaker, made connections and done. Ran remote and wire(it's wired w/data cable, included) inside/under cabinets, out from behind existing outlet faceplate and attached to cabinet w/double sided tape etc. Never had to drill a hole in cabinets etc other than 4 screws to mount. The EMS can be mounted horizontal, vertical, on floor, upside down whatever according to P.I. I feel really good about purchase even though it's $260 it's peace of mind and protection. Out of sight, out of mind, not exposed to weather and won't grow legs and walk off.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:30 PM   #28
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I installed mine under the fridge behind the converter. It was tight, but made it easy....just cut the orig cord and put it inline. Ran the remote cable behind the counter and fished it up the wall so the display mounts just above the tank panel - no wires showing at all.

It has been a life saver on a couple of occasions - esp for low voltage situations.



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Old 03-14-2012, 11:29 AM   #29
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a simple protector! just tie an overhand knot in all power cords & single wires before a connection,was taught this in my youth by a very old electrician that started his apprentiship the 1920's .
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:38 PM   #30
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OK Poohbear, I am certainly no electrician yet a fairly handy person and never hear this. What does an overhand not in the line do?
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:45 PM   #31
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OK Poohbear, I am certainly no electrician yet a fairly handy person and never hear this. What does an overhand not in the line do?
surge hits itself is the way explained to me.when there were "fuse boxes" and each wire was individual(knob & tube) they would put the knot just before the fuse so if lightning/hivoltage hit the house all they had to do was repair the wire inside the box,no attic work usually.:lightning:
The "physics" explanation I am not sure but I have had surge protectors i put before my more sophisticated ac controls we install just melt and all is well past the knot.I throw this out from time to time to some of the factory engineers and just get that "deer in headlight look".:
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:22 PM   #32
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A knot just isn't necessary anymore. Back in the old knob and tube days, electricians used to tie a knot in wire to keep the wire from pulling out of the box. Now, they either use strain relief clamps on the box or staple the Romex to the framing near the box.

Electrical joints are usually the first to fail in wiring so having a little extra length will allow repair without pulling a replacement run. If a box isn't too crowded, a little extra length can be tucked in. However, there usually isn't enough room. In those cases, a loop could be left outside the box if the box has strain relief clamps that can be loosened and tightened from inside the box.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:54 PM   #33
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Thanks Jeannie, I'm going to toss that out in a conversation. Makes sense to me.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:12 PM   #34
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A knot just isn't necessary anymore. Back in the old knob and tube days, electricians used to tie a knot in wire to keep the wire from pulling out of the box. Now, they either use strain relief clamps on the box or staple the Romex to the framing near the box.

Electrical joints are usually the first to fail in wiring so having a little extra length will allow repair without pulling a replacement run. If a box isn't too crowded, a little extra length can be tucked in. However, there usually isn't enough room. In those cases, a loop could be left outside the box if the box has strain relief clamps that can be loosened and tightened from inside the box.
Not the same purpose for the knot.goes after the bend to go into the fuse/breaker connection screw.all wires inside the fuse/breaker box should be neat with no slack.wire can burn into here,easy place to repair
I tie the knot on all power cords even surge protector strips mileage may very
Every power cord/cable I hookup gets a knot .,
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:52 AM   #35
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Not the same purpose for the knot.goes after the bend to go into the fuse/breaker connection screw.all wires inside the fuse/breaker box should be neat with no slack.wire can burn into here,easy place to repair
I tie the knot on all power cords even surge protector strips mileage may very
Every power cord/cable I hookup gets a knot .,
I still don't see why you think you would need a knot before going into the connection screw of a breaker. Putting the knot in #14 or #12 solid takes some serious effort and undoing it would take even more effort, not to mention the knot just looks sloppy.

I agree an electrical panel wiring should be neat but it is possible to have slack and still look neat. I always installed strain reliefs in new panels with the clamps on the inside of the box so I could leave some slack outside the box out of site behind the wallboard. If that is not possible "taking the scenic" route with the wires still allows good lead dress. If the wire should burn at the connection, rerouting to a more direct route with the wire gives you the extra length you need for the repair and still allows good lead dress. Routing the wire past the breaker and looping back to it is another way to neatly put slack inside the panel. Btw, if a connection is properly made, the chance of failure before a breaker trips is very slim. I've never had it happen to me although I've repaired one on my parent's house and fixed a couple of neighbors. All three times there wasn't enough slack for the repair so I just pigtailed the remaining wire with an extension using a Scotchlock (my preferred brand of wire nut). My repairs looked neater than the originals.

Knotting a power cord just doesn't do anything except put an unsightly lump in the cord and, depending how tight you pull the knot, could even damage it.
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:43 AM   #36
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We've been checking into what all we need to protect our investment. With all the advertising hype I've been reading for these devices it makes me wonder if we really need this protection or is it something for the after market industry to make $ on. I'm not against buying one, but just don't want to buy something that's not really needed? If the these potential electrical dangers are common at camp grounds, why aren't these surge protectors standard equipment? I have checked posts in this forum and it seems these dangers do exist. Considering calling the salesman/warranty contact person at our dealership and ask for their advice. Who do we believe?
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:10 AM   #37
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Lightning

When I worked for a utility company we had to pay an amish family a lot of money even though they had no electric in the house. Lighting had hit a power pole on their property the induced field was enough to pull their wood burning stove through the wall of their farm house.

Surge and high low protectors are great things but when it comes to lighting its a whole different world.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:21 PM   #38
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Surge and high low protectors are great things but when it comes to lighting its a whole different world.
Absolutely!
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:47 PM   #39
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I still don't see why you think you would need a knot before going into the connection screw of a breaker. Putting the knot in #14 or #12 solid takes some serious effort and undoing it would take even more effort, not to mention the knot just looks sloppy.
.......
Knotting a power cord just doesn't do anything except put an unsightly lump in the cord and, depending how tight you pull the knot, could even damage it.
I am a Ham radio operator and at a meeting of the Lynchburg (VA) Amateur Radio Club one evening (many of the members were electrical engineers who worked at the large GE commercial radio manufacturing plant in Lynchburg), the presenter was the GE 'anti-lightning' engineer (if you will). He was advocating the benefits of 6 knots in each electrical cord and how much damage that could prevent. He gave many examples (with photos) of the benefits. He then asked the audience (mostly electrical engineers) why that trick worked. There was a long silence, then one gentleman said, "The knot is a one-turn autotransformer - it will induce a reverse current in the wire to counter the high incoming current from a lightning strike, and thereby block the surge."

The presenter also said '6' was the optimum number of knots - he found that with experimentation.

There is a very good engineering reason for the knot!

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Old 12-30-2012, 07:39 AM   #40
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This is an interesting thread, but I'm getting more confused with each post. I think protecting your electrical system is a good idea. I'm not an electrician but I do know how to tie an overhand knot. So, I'm going to do two things: 1. I'm going to contact a technical rep that's known to have a competent electrical opinion; and 2. I'm going back to the McRib thread because I had one last night.
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