surge protectors - Surge Guard 34750, Prog Ind EMS-PT50C, or PI EMS HW50C ?

[tinlizzie23]

Have never had an electrical problem at a CG in many years of camping, but after reading numerous posts about problems on the subject on this forum, I'm inclined to take the plunge ($$$) and get one. Have read a lot of good reviews on different brands, but none were a direct comparison. So . . . . would like to hear from folks who have had experiences with different units, as to pros and cons of their respective features.

We have a 5er equipped with 50 amp circuits, so have narrowed it down to the Surge Guard 34750, the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, and the PI hard wired HW50C, although please feel free to suggest other models. Basically, I'm looking for why you chose the one you have, and/or why you rejected the other models. Any and all comments will be helpful in making our choice.

In the case of hard wired units, would also like to know how easy or difficult they are to install. I am pretty decent at wiring, but am not sure how or where you access the inside wiring for these units. Do you wire the units near the main outside terminal, or close to the power distribution box, or ??

Thanks in advance for your comments !

[tnchuck100]

I have the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30C for my unit.

I had the unfortunate experience of having a site where the neutral failed as a result my converter was unable to survive the 160V. The air conditioner did survive. Had I had this unit at the time it would have saved me from the damage.

This unit will kill the power to the RV in the event of over voltage, under voltage, open ground, reverse hot/neutral. In addition if the power is interrupted momentarily it will hold the power off for two minute and allow your air conditioner to equalize and not try to instantly restart under that much load.

The unit is not cheap but it is less than an air conditioner.

[edatlanta]

The park where I am right now has power issues. My EMS-PT50C shut off my power yesterday afternoon due to a lost ground issue. This happens much too frequently for me to now have the protection I have. I think it is well worth the money and as was said above, much cheaper than a/c's.

[Explorer03]

I installed the EMS-HW30C (w/remote display) into my trailer. It was not hard to install at all. Once you locate where you want it, it is a piece of cake to connect. I pulled my breaker panel out and installed it in the space behind the panel. It was was a small area to work in but with patience it went pretty easy. To connect the hardwrie is straight forward, cut the power cord, connect each end to the appropriate side of the EMS and off you go.

I have two Yamaha 2000si generators if I decide to boondock and all I have to do is switch the EMS into "by-pass" mode and it will allow everything to work. If you don't put into by-pass you get an open ground error on the EMS. But since you know where the power source....no issues.

[Rustic Eagle]

I recently installed the PI EMS-LCHW30 in my TT, this is the 30amp hardware model. I went the hardwire route to minimize the chance of theft, and one less item to deal with when setting up/breaking camp. Also, in the event that there is a product issue, I don't have to send the whole product back to the manufacture......., and I "believe" the hardwire models are easier to trouble shoot/repair in the event that one has to contact PI tech support.

Works great with my Yamaha 2400 genny as well. I don't put my EMS into by-pass mode (that way all of the protection features remain in service), I made a bonding plug for the genny.

Bonding Plug: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...8.cfm#25760168

My EMS install: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...-Install/page3

Bob

[2edgesword]

What sold me on the Surge Guard was the digital readout of voltage and current. I like the idea of knowing the load of each appliance (start-up and running) versus just a display that tells you there is a problem. Knowing when you're approaching the maximum load for the system, noticing a significant increase in the load while running a particular appliance could serve as an indication of a pending problem.

[Explorer03]

Bob (Rustic Eagle),
Question, did you make the bonding plug just like the one in the pic in the link you attached? I run two Yamaha Ef 2000is generators connected together with the Parallel Power Cable to provide 30amps. I am gathering I would require one of these plugs for each generator?

Thanks
Tim

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by 2edgesword

What sold me on the Surge Guard was the digital readout of voltage and current. I like the idea of knowing the load of each appliance (start-up and running) versus just a display that tells you there is a problem.....snip

The digital display on the PI unit reads: Source Voltage, Amp Draw, Source Frequency, and Fault Codes.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Tim,

Yes, my bonding plug was jumpered the same as the one in the RV.NET link, I used a different style plug that I had on hand......:



Good question..., I'm not sure about when using two genny's if two bonding plugs would be required, I'm sure one of our electrical members will chime in with an answer.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Tim,

The following RV.NET thread talks a little about the bonding plug and using two generators:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...6.cfm#25766176

So, if I read the thread correctly you only need one bonding plug as long as the parallel cable is connected correctly between the two genney's.

Bob

[2edgesword]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

The digital display on the PI unit reads: Source Voltage, Amp Draw, Source Frequency, and Fault Codes.

Bob

My error...

I was considering the less expensive PI unit (30 amp) that uses blinking codes to identify the nature of a problem (~$100). I found a Surge Guard with digital readout for ~$250 while the PI unit with digital read was ~ $350. I couldn't find anything about the PI unit that justified the addition $100.

[Explorer03]

Thanks Bob. I will give it a try

Tim

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by 2edgesword

snip.......I was considering the less expensive PI unit (30 amp) that uses blinking codes.....snip

Your correct about the cheaper PI SSP 30 unit. I purchased my EMS-LCHW30 through "Tweety's" and they price-matched another lower price as well.

http://tweetys.com/rvpartsandaccesso...FeEDQAodFEwAww

Bob

[Terry]

I have not used the others...sure they are fine too...but I have the PI with remote display and love it! After burning up a plug and having a major arc incident at a pedestal...it sold me!

[RedHorse1]

I bought one of the PI (EMS-PT30C) prior to picking up our unit. After reading so many posts where electronics got fried due to a CG wiring/power issue is just seemed good insurance. The only way that I'd KNOW that it was a good choice would be the fried electronics if I hadn't gotten one. (Gee, if I'd only bought a.....) Hopefully years from now I'll still have all the original goodies in place and can ponder if the little PI box saved my bacon or if nothing happened.
I bought the PI model since it seemed to have a good rep. It is a little annoying to arrive at the CG with the bride wanting to know then the power will be on so she can fire up the A/C (3 min delay after plugging in).:hihi:

[Mikey72]

I was torn between the Between a a hardwired unit and the external suppressor. I went with the external TRC 30A, because if there is an issue with the electrical at the pedestal then everything is protected, including the cable between the pedestal and the trailer. It was my personal preference for location, and others may have differing opinions with regards to that precaution. And, I went with TRC due to features like the LED display, the reverse polarity indicator, and the delay before power up. I bought the plastic case with a lock, just as added precaution to keep the honest people honest.

[clubhouse]

Originally Posted by Mikey72

I was torn between the Between a a hardwired unit and the external suppressor. I went with the external TRC 30A, because if there is an issue with the electrical at the pedestal then everything is protected, including the cable between the pedestal and the trailer. It was my personal preference for location, and others may have differing opinions with regards to that precaution. And, I went with TRC due to features like the LED display, the reverse polarity indicator, and the delay before power up. I bought the plastic case with a lock, just as added precaution to keep the honest people honest.

X2
I went with TRC's SurgeGuard 30A external device with the locking plastic housing for all the same reasons, plus it would be easier to move should I ever change trailers.