Many of us know that a single AC unit, even a 15 BTU unit doesn't cool our RV's they way we want them to. There is always warm places. In my case, it is my bunkhouse area. It has a slide on each side, so it is a good size area. Before I pay to have a second unit installed, I plan on trying the "diverter mod". If that works....great. All of our camping is done at Myrtle Beach, and the majority is in the summer. Hot temps, high humidity etc. Anyways, contacted 3 people in the area about adding the AC unit. First, the Jayco dealer where I purchased the TT from. He didn't seem to excited about doing it, and gave me a price of around $2000. Second is another, non jayco dealer at another campground. He said he could add a 13.5 BTU unit in the vent in the bunkhouse. Run the wires along the ceiling(and cover with some type of wire covering)and out the back to a box. He said he would install a breaker(not sure if inside or outside). Then from the box at the back, I would have a cord exactly like my present cord that I could plug into the pedestal. Cost he said was $1500-$1800. Not real happy about having a "box" at the back of the TT . The third person is a local guy who owns his own mobile RV repair service. I have used him in the past with my old TT. I always thought he was a little expensive, but as he told me once, I have only about 3 months to make my money. Alot of people at the CG use him. Anyways, he wants to install a 13.5 BTU unit in the vent, run the wires along the ceiling, covering them with wire mold, to the back of the TT, come down the back wall and go out. He too, is going to install a breaker box(but not sure where). Here's the part I like, but am not sure about. At the back of the TT, he is going to install a marine plug. He explained it as a plug that you plug your cord into and twist it on. After doing that you plug it into the pedestal. He said the plug was expensive, as is the special cord that it requires. But no box, just a covered plug, and I store the cord wherever I want. Cost he said, around $1500. Just curious as to any ones thoughts, comments, advice, etc on this. Thanks in advance
As a result of and to help ensure it doesn't happen again, I rewired my AC in a manner that sounds rather similar to what the mobile repair guy suggested for your second unit.
I used a Marinco 20 amp power inlet and wired it into a new breaker I installed in the existing breaker box.
I bought 2 heavy 10 gauge extension cords, one a 25' and the other a 50'. I only use the 50' if the 25' doesn't reach, which hasn't happened yet. Generally speaking you always want to use the shortest cord possible. The longer the cord, the greater the resistance and voltage drop. A lot of voltage drop is very bad for an AC unit. On the other hand, using the largest gauge cord possible is a good thing.
If the mobile repair guy is competent and his quality of work is good, I don't see how his approach wouldn't work quite well. It sounds like the biggest issue is how to route the electric wiring up to the 2nd AC unit.
On edit: Did you look into the possibility that your 32TSBH has been pre-wired for a 2nd AC already??
__________________
Kent
FAA licensed A&P aircraft mechanic, ex-RV dealer parts dept
Retired B-52 Gunner/Flight Examiner, B-52 Crew Chief
I would double check with JAYCO to see if the ceiling will handle the weight. They usually reinforce the roof where the a/c units are going.
JMO.
Thanks, I will do that. But, even if it isn't, the shops say the unit weighs 120 pounds. Since I walk on my roof, would 120 pounds really make a difference?
That's surprising, as the 15k in our 32 TSBH keeps up just fine. But we don't have people going in and out a lot, and probably have more shade than you do. Have you ever considered adding slide Toomers to keep the direct sun off the slides?
I would avoid the extra cost and complexity of a second AC if at all possible, but that's just me.
__________________
2011 Ford F-350
2020 Jayco Eagle 355 MBQS
I too plan to install a second AC unit in my 31.5FBHS in the bunk room. I priced with the Jayco dealer where I purchased the unit. $2500 was their estimate. They were going to convert to a 50amp cable, etc. That seemed a little high for the project.
My plan is to DIY it. After reading on several forums, I plan to install the unit, feed the wire to a cabnit then down and out the floor to a terminateing receiptical. I will then power the unit with a cord of it's own at the pedestal's 20amp plug. My thinking is, the pedestal is a "breaker box", why do I need a inline breaker box for the one unit?
Thanks, I will do that. But, even if it isn't, the shops say the unit weighs 120 pounds. Since I walk on my roof, would 120 pounds really make a difference?
But you don't stand on the roof as it bounces down the road. I have seen units added to non reinforced openings that start to sag.
Many of us know that a single AC unit, even a 15 BTU unit doesn't cool our RV's they way we want them to. There is always warm places. In my case, it is my bunkhouse area. It has a slide on each side, so it is a good size area. Before I pay to have a second unit installed, I plan on trying the "diverter mod". If that works....great. All of our camping is done at Myrtle Beach, and the majority is in the summer. Hot temps, high humidity etc. Anyways, contacted 3 people in the area about adding the AC unit. First, the Jayco dealer where I purchased the TT from. He didn't seem to excited about doing it, and gave me a price of around $2000. Second is another, non jayco dealer at another campground. He said he could add a 13.5 BTU unit in the vent in the bunkhouse. Run the wires along the ceiling(and cover with some type of wire covering)and out the back to a box. He said he would install a breaker(not sure if inside or outside). Then from the box at the back, I would have a cord exactly like my present cord that I could plug into the pedestal. Cost he said was $1500-$1800. Not real happy about having a "box" at the back of the TT . The third person is a local guy who owns his own mobile RV repair service. I have used him in the past with my old TT. I always thought he was a little expensive, but as he told me once, I have only about 3 months to make my money. Alot of people at the CG use him. Anyways, he wants to install a 13.5 BTU unit in the vent, run the wires along the ceiling, covering them with wire mold, to the back of the TT, come down the back wall and go out. He too, is going to install a breaker box(but not sure where). Here's the part I like, but am not sure about. At the back of the TT, he is going to install a marine plug. He explained it as a plug that you plug your cord into and twist it on. After doing that you plug it into the pedestal. He said the plug was expensive, as is the special cord that it requires. But no box, just a covered plug, and I store the cord wherever I want. Cost he said, around $1500. Just curious as to any ones thoughts, comments, advice, etc on this. Thanks in advance
I did the diverter mod and added another vent to my bunk house. This significantly increased my airflow. You should also invest in the screen door mod with plexi. I keep my hard door open all day with a self closing spring and plexi on the screen door. What difference this makes in keeping the hot air out. Not being able to see my kids with the door closed was my main concern, but it helped keep my unit cooler in those 95+ temps. No more "close the door" either.
I am on the fence with adding my front second unit still, but my unit is wired and set up for it already from the factory. There is a Mach 8 out now that is lower profile and lighter by 15#'s. It is more $ but might fit your needs. Another option might be a household free standing unit you purchase for the few trips a year you might need it.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
I too plan to install a second AC unit in my 31.5FBHS in the bunk room. I priced with the Jayco dealer where I purchased the unit. $2500 was their estimate. They were going to convert to a 50amp cable, etc. That seemed a little high for the project.
My plan is to DIY it. After reading on several forums, I plan to install the unit, feed the wire to a cabnit then down and out the floor to a terminateing receiptical. I will then power the unit with a cord of it's own at the pedestal's 20amp plug. My thinking is, the pedestal is a "breaker box", why do I need a inline breaker box for the one unit?
Shorty
Better safe than sorry.. Those breakers at the site can be stuck, rusty, old, spider infested and just wore out. Make sense to install its own after the pedestal to protect your AC unit and TT.
I did the diverter mod and added another vent to my bunk house. This significantly increased my airflow. You should also invest in the screen door mod with plexi. I keep my hard door open all day with a self closing spring and plexi on the screen door. What difference this makes in keeping the hot air out. Not being able to see my kids with the door closed was my main concern, but it helped keep my unit cooler in those 95+ temps. No more "close the door" either.
I am on the fence with adding my front second unit still, but my unit is wired and set up for it already from the factory. There is a Mach 8 out now that is lower profile and lighter by 15#'s. It is more $ but might fit your needs. Another option might be a household free standing unit you purchase for the few trips a year you might need it.
I already have the plexiglass mod, but I did it because our dog kept ripping the screen. I plan on trying the diverter mod to see how it works. I never thought about a free standing AC unit. I looked at Home Depot. The price isn't bad, but they all say something about a window exhaust. Not sure what that means exactly. Also they use about 9.5 amps, not sure what that will do when running the 15k unit. Anyone have any experience with this type unit?
There is a dryer like expanding hose that goes to an adjustable window plate for exhaust of hot air and moisture. You could run a seperate 15A extention cord to the post at the hookup for the added amp draw. Depending on how your shorepower line is set up you might need to snake it through the cord storage point and into your unit.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
I already have the plexiglass mod, but I did it because our dog kept ripping the screen. I plan on trying the diverter mod to see how it works. I never thought about a free standing AC unit. I looked at Home Depot. The price isn't bad, but they all say something about a window exhaust. Not sure what that means exactly. Also they use about 9.5 amps, not sure what that will do when running the 15k unit. Anyone have any experience with this type unit?
We used a several of these in a feeding tent during a hurricane event a few years back. They cool quite well but if it is humid they can 'create' a lot of access water that has to be disposed or routed out of the camper.
I would double check with JAYCO to see if the ceiling will handle the weight. They usually reinforce the roof where the a/c units are going.
JMO.
Emailed Jayco and got a reply today. They stated that all vents are made the same way. They sent me a PDF schematic showing the vents and construction. The one where the present AC unit is located is made just like the rest. However, they went on to say this...Jayco can not give any recommendations or provide any information in regards to modifications for your unit. As you can see in the roof schematic that I have attached all the vent openings are framed the same way. With that being said adding a second A/C to your unit is considered a modification and will be at your own risk. If you should install the second A/C and any damages occur to that area of the trailer your Jayco Limited Warranty would be voided to that area of the unit.
all this has me thinking towards just installing a 30 amp service to the bunkhouse, this would allow either a portable AC unit, or a self install (if I dare)on the roof. I can run and cover my own wires! I am going to start another thread about coming in with a new 30 amp connection to the bunkhouse.
I don't know if all Jayco's trailers have the Magnum truss roof. But if it does, I doubt the weight of an extra AC unit would even be noticed.
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Mike and Kim
Current TT: 2012 Eagle Super Lite 308RETS
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