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10-22-2011, 02:20 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 77
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Winterizing/antifreeze questions for a newbie
I attempted to winterize my trailer today and a couple of curiosities developed in the process. Hope someone can fill me in ..
1. My goal was to use only my trailer battery to power the water pump while winterizing, but neither the pump, nor any of the electrical features in the TT worked until I plugged the trailering harness into my truck. What did I do wrong?
2. While filling the pipelines with antifreeze, the lines leading to the hot water tap and the hot water heater were not sucking any antifreeze.
A. I assume one of the valves by the water heater needs to be turned in the opposite direction? Right now, the three valves near the water heater are all turned in the opposite direction from the line. Is it the valve that connects the two hot water heater lines (input and output) that needs to be turned so it's in line with the pipe, or???
B. Since I've never used the hot water heater in the TT, is it even necessary to fill those lines with antifreeze? I'd rather not if I don't have to.
Thanks for your feedback!
Ray
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10-22-2011, 06:42 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,858
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Drain the wh, then operate the valves so that the wh is bypassed. Then continue on with the winterizing.
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10-22-2011, 06:43 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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1. You should be able to run the pump with just the battery, no need to hook up to the truck. Is your battery dead?
2. The pump should pump water to the hot water lines as well as cold.
3.
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10-22-2011, 06:52 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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I am betting that the battery is dead and the hot water tank is filling with antifreeze. You need to bypass the tank.
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10-22-2011, 07:39 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 77
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JThanks for the feedback folks.
Just to clairfy: All of the hot water tank valves were turned perpendicular to the pipelines, which I assume means they were in the Closed position. Consequently, I would think that NO antifreeze would have entered the water heater. (I saw NO pink in any of the lines around the heater)
As far as the battery issue, it was fully charged when I hooked it up to the trailer, so I'm still baffed as to why I didn't have power.
This raises another question: Is it possible to power a trailer by simply connecting its power chord to the truck's socket and not even hooking up the trailer's battery? Just curious.
Thanks again.
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10-22-2011, 08:08 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
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OK here is a better diagram. The middle valve should be open and the two that go to the water heater should be closed for bypassing the water heater. If the middle valve is also closed, then antifreeze cannot go through the hot water plumbing so it could freeze. Check your fuse by the battery to see if it is good and you have a clean connection there and at the terminals.
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10-22-2011, 09:16 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman
OK here is a better diagram. The middle valve should be open and the two that go to the water heater should be closed for bypassing the water heater. If the middle valve is also closed, then antifreeze cannot go through the hot water plumbing so it could freeze. Check your fuse by the battery to see if it is good and you have a clean connection there and at the terminals.
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Great, thanks, Crab.
By the way, I need to complete adding antifreeze tomorrow. To run the water pump, can I just hook the trailer's power chord up to my truck, or does the TT's battery need to be attached?
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10-23-2011, 05:46 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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Need your battery to complete the circut if using your truck. If you have 120V for shore power then your converter may work without the battery.
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10-23-2011, 08:30 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 4,923
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Actually, it should work without the battery. Just watch your tt battery cables that they don't touch anything metal.
On the battery - have you checked your fuses? There is one at the battery and two in the load center. Possible one of those is blown - more than likely the one at the battery given your description. Also check for coorosion in and around the terminals and fuse holder - it can cause the same thing to occur.
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10-23-2011, 09:20 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tafische
Actually, it should work without the battery. Just watch your tt battery cables that they don't touch anything metal.
On the battery - have you checked your fuses? There is one at the battery and two in the load center. Possible one of those is blown - more than likely the one at the battery given your description. Also check for coorosion in and around the terminals and fuse holder - it can cause the same thing to occur.
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Is the fuse "at the battery" attached to the wiring harness? I can check it. Do you know if automotive stores or hardware stores stock these? Also, by "load center" do you mean the circurit braker box inside the trailer?
Thanks.
Ray
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10-24-2011, 11:37 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 4,923
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There is a standard 30 amp automotive blade type fuse that should be about a foot off the positive terminal wire. That one is usually the first to go. There are also two 30 amp reverse polarity fuses in box inside the trailer.
Check those guys and let us know what you find - we can go from there.
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10-25-2011, 11:02 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 38
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Don't forget to drain the water heater - should have a drain plug in the back side.
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10-25-2011, 04:55 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 77
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Turns out that I wasn't tightening the nut enough on the battery posts, so I apparently wasn't getting power. Anywho, the problem is fixed and I was able to finish the winterizing process.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Ray
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10-25-2011, 05:19 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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Loose nuts will do it! Glad to hear all is well now.
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10-25-2011, 05:23 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: week days it's Illinois and weekends it's Missouri
Posts: 293
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lol don't ya hate when that happens!!!
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10-28-2011, 07:06 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 15
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Another newbee question.
Terry, Lee,
If I use an air compressor and blow out the water lines, plus drain the water heater, do I need to put antifreeze into the pipes? I know I should put some in the sink p trap, but if all lines are blown out is that good enough?
This is the Jayco's first winter..
Bruce.
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10-28-2011, 07:34 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Merrimack NH
Posts: 917
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brucef15, I don't know the answer to your question but don't forget the bath sink, shower, and toilet. I think you need to pump the antifreeze thru the toilet but not sure.Larry
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10-28-2011, 08:05 AM
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#18
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucef15
Terry, Lee,
If I use an air compressor and blow out the water lines, plus drain the water heater, do I need to put antifreeze into the pipes? I know I should put some in the sink p trap, but if all lines are blown out is that good enough?
This is the Jayco's first winter..
Bruce.
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Bruce,
Many folks use the compressed air method and do not use antifreeze in the fresh water plumbing. I actually do both to be safe, blow out the lines and then use the anti freeze because I`m no pro at this yet either. Here is a pretty decent video on compressed air only Winterizing, and it looks like this dude has a Jayco also!
Lee
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