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Old 10-22-2011, 02:20 PM   #1
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Winterizing/antifreeze questions for a newbie

I attempted to winterize my trailer today and a couple of curiosities developed in the process. Hope someone can fill me in ..

1. My goal was to use only my trailer battery to power the water pump while winterizing, but neither the pump, nor any of the electrical features in the TT worked until I plugged the trailering harness into my truck. What did I do wrong?

2. While filling the pipelines with antifreeze, the lines leading to the hot water tap and the hot water heater were not sucking any antifreeze.

A. I assume one of the valves by the water heater needs to be turned in the opposite direction? Right now, the three valves near the water heater are all turned in the opposite direction from the line. Is it the valve that connects the two hot water heater lines (input and output) that needs to be turned so it's in line with the pipe, or???
B. Since I've never used the hot water heater in the TT, is it even necessary to fill those lines with antifreeze? I'd rather not if I don't have to.

Thanks for your feedback!
Ray
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Old 10-22-2011, 06:42 PM   #2
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Drain the wh, then operate the valves so that the wh is bypassed. Then continue on with the winterizing.
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Old 10-22-2011, 06:43 PM   #3
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1. You should be able to run the pump with just the battery, no need to hook up to the truck. Is your battery dead?

2. The pump should pump water to the hot water lines as well as cold.

3.

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Old 10-22-2011, 06:52 PM   #4
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I am betting that the battery is dead and the hot water tank is filling with antifreeze. You need to bypass the tank.
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:39 PM   #5
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JThanks for the feedback folks.

Just to clairfy: All of the hot water tank valves were turned perpendicular to the pipelines, which I assume means they were in the Closed position. Consequently, I would think that NO antifreeze would have entered the water heater. (I saw NO pink in any of the lines around the heater)

As far as the battery issue, it was fully charged when I hooked it up to the trailer, so I'm still baffed as to why I didn't have power.

This raises another question: Is it possible to power a trailer by simply connecting its power chord to the truck's socket and not even hooking up the trailer's battery? Just curious.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:08 PM   #6
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OK here is a better diagram. The middle valve should be open and the two that go to the water heater should be closed for bypassing the water heater. If the middle valve is also closed, then antifreeze cannot go through the hot water plumbing so it could freeze. Check your fuse by the battery to see if it is good and you have a clean connection there and at the terminals.

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Old 10-22-2011, 09:16 PM   #7
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OK here is a better diagram. The middle valve should be open and the two that go to the water heater should be closed for bypassing the water heater. If the middle valve is also closed, then antifreeze cannot go through the hot water plumbing so it could freeze. Check your fuse by the battery to see if it is good and you have a clean connection there and at the terminals.

Great, thanks, Crab.

By the way, I need to complete adding antifreeze tomorrow. To run the water pump, can I just hook the trailer's power chord up to my truck, or does the TT's battery need to be attached?
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:46 AM   #8
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Need your battery to complete the circut if using your truck. If you have 120V for shore power then your converter may work without the battery.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:30 AM   #9
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Actually, it should work without the battery. Just watch your tt battery cables that they don't touch anything metal.

On the battery - have you checked your fuses? There is one at the battery and two in the load center. Possible one of those is blown - more than likely the one at the battery given your description. Also check for coorosion in and around the terminals and fuse holder - it can cause the same thing to occur.



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Old 10-23-2011, 09:20 AM   #10
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Actually, it should work without the battery. Just watch your tt battery cables that they don't touch anything metal.

On the battery - have you checked your fuses? There is one at the battery and two in the load center. Possible one of those is blown - more than likely the one at the battery given your description. Also check for coorosion in and around the terminals and fuse holder - it can cause the same thing to occur.
Is the fuse "at the battery" attached to the wiring harness? I can check it. Do you know if automotive stores or hardware stores stock these? Also, by "load center" do you mean the circurit braker box inside the trailer?

Thanks.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:37 AM   #11
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There is a standard 30 amp automotive blade type fuse that should be about a foot off the positive terminal wire. That one is usually the first to go. There are also two 30 amp reverse polarity fuses in box inside the trailer.

Check those guys and let us know what you find - we can go from there.



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Old 10-25-2011, 11:02 AM   #12
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Don't forget to drain the water heater - should have a drain plug in the back side.
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Old 10-25-2011, 04:55 PM   #13
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Turns out that I wasn't tightening the nut enough on the battery posts, so I apparently wasn't getting power. Anywho, the problem is fixed and I was able to finish the winterizing process.

Thanks for everyone's input!

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Old 10-25-2011, 05:19 PM   #14
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Loose nuts will do it! Glad to hear all is well now.
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:23 PM   #15
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lol don't ya hate when that happens!!!
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:06 AM   #16
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Another newbee question.

Terry, Lee,
If I use an air compressor and blow out the water lines, plus drain the water heater, do I need to put antifreeze into the pipes? I know I should put some in the sink p trap, but if all lines are blown out is that good enough?
This is the Jayco's first winter..
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:34 AM   #17
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brucef15, I don't know the answer to your question but don't forget the bath sink, shower, and toilet. I think you need to pump the antifreeze thru the toilet but not sure.Larry
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:05 AM   #18
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Terry, Lee,
If I use an air compressor and blow out the water lines, plus drain the water heater, do I need to put antifreeze into the pipes? I know I should put some in the sink p trap, but if all lines are blown out is that good enough?
This is the Jayco's first winter..
Bruce.
Bruce,

Many folks use the compressed air method and do not use antifreeze in the fresh water plumbing. I actually do both to be safe, blow out the lines and then use the anti freeze because I`m no pro at this yet either. Here is a pretty decent video on compressed air only Winterizing, and it looks like this dude has a Jayco also!

Lee

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Old 10-28-2011, 08:06 AM   #19
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Some guys will tell you no, some will tell you yes. It is a personal choice mostly due to claims of antifreeze flavor left over. If you blow them out and sanitize with a good flush in the spring you should have no issues.
Drain the hot water tank first then blow out the lines and low points. Then pump the pink through the water pump just until pink comes out of each faucet and toilet. Then go back and blow out the lines again and put the leftover in the p-traps. For the $2.00 a gallon it costs I know it's not going to leak in the spring.
Don't forget to blow out your black tank sprayer and outdoor shower if you have them.
3 gal did mine using this process.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:25 PM   #20
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I personally do both. I blow them out for two reasons -- one, it gets all the water out at the city inlet that might otherwise be trapped, and #2 - I use a lot less antifreeze. I tried the air only method and then inspected my lines and found a few pockets where the water pooled again. Probably would have been fine, but it is so easy to flush out and I have never had a taste problem. In the spring I do a pretty long flush and then do a proper sanitize.

Heck - I had a buddy that purchased a used camper 10 years ago, but never once used his water systems. Discovered his fresh tank, water lines, and water heater were all full. Only damage when we got him fired back up was a broken kitchen faucet and a split shower hose -- I could never be that lucky!



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