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Old 08-23-2017, 07:39 PM   #1
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Wiring Layout-Battery Disconnect

I am in the process of changing over to 2 Costco Interstate 6 volt batteries, I am wondering if the wiring was connected properly or should I change anything along the way.



The battery side of the disconnect starts from the battery to a terminal block, from the other side of the terminal block there is an orange wire connected to the emergency brake, and a black wire feeding the switch itself, at that same point on the switch there is a fused green wire that connects to the 7 pin trailer connector, and another larger black wire that connects to the charger/invertor inside.

The other side of the disconnect switch has only 2 black wires, a large one that feeds all the 12 volt to the camper and the other feed just the bedroom slide.

When the switch is in the off position, all the interior 12 volt is off as well as the slide, but the other side of the switch is still powered by the battery, and when there is no battery it is still energized from the 120 volt shore power.

So what I'm wondering, should the charger/invertor, the brake wire and the 7 pin connector, all be on a separate disconnect, so when not plugged into shore power there is no power draw from them.

I hope this makes sense to someone that can offer some advice if need be.

The pic pretty much shows the layout I describe.

I have a battery monitor to add to the setup, as I understand the shunt is wired directly to the load side and then to the disconnect and the other side direct to the ground.
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Old 08-24-2017, 10:14 AM   #2
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Verify your trucks electrical system. Some trucks have a relay that disconnects power to the 7 pin connector when the truck is not running so it would be a redundant switch.

Personally, I would just disconnect the 7 pin connector if you are not sure when parking overnight and connected to the tow vehicle.

Maybe someone can jump in with another opinion.
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Old 11-13-2017, 10:25 PM   #3
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What I don’t understand is why does there need to be a direct line to the charger/inverter? If I want to kill all power why does the inverter still have a little green light on. Trying to learn 12v and 120v systems. Thanks!


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Old 11-14-2017, 07:44 AM   #4
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Can't speak to a lot of that stuff, but newer trucks designed to pull trailers probably have a built in device that will stop a trailer from pulling power from the truck's battery. It only works to charge the trailer battery when the truck is on.

I know my 2014 Ford F150 has that device on it.

But to feel extra comfortable with it, you can simply unplug the umbilical cord when you're stopped over night.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ont-tt View Post
I am in the process of changing over to 2 Costco Interstate 6 volt batteries, I am wondering if the wiring was connected properly or should I change anything along the way.



The battery side of the disconnect starts from the battery to a terminal block, from the other side of the terminal block there is an orange wire connected to the emergency brake, and a black wire feeding the switch itself, at that same point on the switch there is a fused green wire that connects to the 7 pin trailer connector, and another larger black wire that connects to the charger/invertor inside.

The other side of the disconnect switch has only 2 black wires, a large one that feeds all the 12 volt to the camper and the other feed just the bedroom slide.

When the switch is in the off position, all the interior 12 volt is off as well as the slide, but the other side of the switch is still powered by the battery, and when there is no battery it is still energized from the 120 volt shore power.

So what I'm wondering, should the charger/invertor, the brake wire and the 7 pin connector, all be on a separate disconnect, so when not plugged into shore power there is no power draw from them.

I hope this makes sense to someone that can offer some advice if need be.

The pic pretty much shows the layout I describe.

I have a battery monitor to add to the setup, as I understand the shunt is wired directly to the load side and then to the disconnect and the other side direct to the ground.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:13 AM   #5
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rauzier - do you have a master disconnect switch? I can't imagine why the converter would have power if the master disconnect is off.

In my experience, dealers install and connect batteries, and they don't always hook them up the same.

My last trailer had 4 wires going to the positive battery terminal. One fed the master disconnect switch which then went on to the converter and awning. One wire fed the slideout. Another fed the tongue jack. And the 4th fed the brakes. The wires feeding the jack and slideout had inline fuses. The brake wire didn't have a fuse or any kind of disconnect. I believe that's a DOT requirement. I only mention all of this because exactly how it is hooked up depends on who is doing it.

I used to live next door to someone back in Indiana that delivered RV trailers all over the USA. Sometimes, he would bring one home on Friday and not head out until Monday, so I had a chance to look them over. I noticed most of the time some of the wiring going to the battery area didn't even have terminals on the ends of the wires.

In case you're wondering, my neighbor had to provide his own temporary battery for the breakaway circuit. Big fines for any contractor-driver caught without a legal setup.
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:26 AM   #6
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I use a setup like this for my battery bank of 4EA 12VDC Interstate Batteries...



With this arrangement I can use ALL BATTERIES, any one of the four position, or none...

Each BLUE SEA rotary switch has OFF-BAT1-BOTH-BAT2 positions. There are time I like to isolate one battery to use for something else other than Trailer needs like Ham radio, external lights etc... I can switch out a bad battery and keep on trucking if I need to...

Recently my Batteries that were installed in 2008 have all finally died and I am working on a new battery bank using the 6VDC 220AH capacity batteries so my new Switch setup will look like this when completed...



We all have different needs for using batteries. This has worked for my setup over the years supporting long term camping OFF-ROAD and my Ham Radio OPS needs...

When camping off road I will run my batteries down to their 50% charge state over night and usually recharge them using my 2KW Generator the next morning when allowed to run a generator and bring them back up to their 90% charge state. This usually take about a three hour generator run time connected to my trailer shore power connection. Then I am good for the next day/night run off my batteries.

This is how my battery bank looks today across the tongue area installed in 2008 You can see my Blue Sea Rotary Switch on the cross member..


My new battery setup will fit in the same angle rail lengths across the tongue area using a TORKLIFT Battery box like this that is some 58-1/2 inches long extending out over both sides of the tongue area... Still acquiring parts for the Battery Bank Mod... Expecting to be able to get back on the camping trail again next season. Trojan Brand batteries are not cheap haha. I may end up with COSTCO 6V batteries before it is all said and done.



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Old 11-14-2017, 10:04 AM   #7
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Now that is how it is done.. do you happen to have a pic of the amp meter? and how it is built? or did you buy one?
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:11 AM   #8
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If you are looking for an inexpensive but good digital display meter, try the one below. Some of the members have purchased and mounted them.

Here is a link to another post regarding the meter. It is a good read!

If you want to monitor usage and charging at the same time, purchase 2.

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