Tent Camper Getting PopUp

[MountainBiker]

I love mountain biking and spend most of my vacation days in the spring and summer tent camping and mountain biking in national or state forests and BLM land. I am thinking of upgrading to an older Jayco pop up, my biggest concern is I have never towed and don't know much about it.
I know my truck has a tow package, two tow hitches, some kind of break thing and plugs by the hitches. It was used to tow a hard sided RV and a boat by the previous owner a couple years ago.
Do I need to learn how all these things work to tow a pop up? I had thought the pop ups were hitch and go due to their smaller weight. If there used on a regular basis, like camped in a couple times each summer, does the breaking mechanism usually need to be replaced? Or is that only if it sits and rusts?
I am looking at a few older Jayco pop ups from 93-96 either the 1006 or 1007 models. All the sellers say they were used in the past year to tow and camp no problem. Two need major repairs on the canvasses and two just need canvass and couch patches.
Oh I might cross post this in the pop ups section of the forum too, but thanks for helping me out!

[stateboy]

You present two thoughts here in your post. One is the towing of a PUP and the other is the condition of the unit itself. I'll touch on the towing.

I just bought 2010 Jayco 1007 in December. That one did not come with brakes. You may want to check to see if the units you're looking at even have brakes. Mine has a weight of just over 1700 pounds.

I got a hitch installed on my minivan and had them install the seven pin connector so it would match what was on the PUP. There is also a flat four pin connector. The difference between the two is that the seven pin also adds connectors to activate electric brakes and run current to the PUP to charge any batteries that may be on the PUP. I drove directly to the pervious owners house to pick up the PUP from the hitch install. Then I towed it back nearly 200 freeway miles (half through a snow storm). Everything tracked just fine.

There will be others that should chime in here to give you better specifics. I'm just telling you that you're line of thinking that they're just a hitch and go has some merit to it, depending on what unit you buy.

To summarize, the four issues that come to my mind about towing are 1) the connector being a 4 pin or 7 pin, 2) the ball size of the hitch to match the PUP towed, 3) whether you have brakes on the unit or not and their maintenance and 4) the greasing of the axles and how long ago that was done and which way they need to be greased.

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[MountainBiker]

Originally Posted by 36fire412

You present two thoughts here in your post. One is the towing of a PUP and the other is the condition of the unit itself. I'll touch on the towing.

I just bought 2010 Jayco 1007 in December. That one did not come with brakes. You may want to check to see if the units you're looking at even have brakes. Mine has a weight of just over 1700 pounds.

I got a hitch installed on my minivan and had them install the seven pin connector so it would match what was on the PUP. There is also a flat four pin connector. The difference between the two is that the seven pin also adds connectors to activate electric brakes and run current to the PUP to charge any batteries that may be on the PUP. I drove directly to the pervious owners house to pick up the PUP from the hitch install. Then I towed it back nearly 200 freeway miles (half through a snow storm). Everything tracked just fine.

There will be others that should chime in here to give you better specifics. I'm just telling you that you're line of thinking that they're just a hitch and go has some merit to it, depending on what unit you buy.

To summarize, the four issues that come to my mind about towing are 1) the connector being a 4 pin or 7 pin, 2) the ball size of the hitch to match the PUP towed, 3) whether you have brakes on the unit or not and their maintenance and 4) the greasing of the axles and how long ago that was done and which way they need to be greased.

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I'm looking at older 1006 and 1007 pop ups.
1) is there an adaptor if my connector is the wrong one or do I have to go get something installed?
2) I have both a male and female hitch, a ball and a square. Is the a ball I could get for the square if my ball is the wrong size? Is that statement even logical because it made me chuckle when I wad it back to myself!
3)I have no clue if I have to use the break control yet! I'm thinking I don't becaus none of the ads or owners have mentioned needing one.
4) can you grease the axels without jacking up or disassembling anything on the trailer?

5) thank you for dealing with this early morning optimistic idiot!

[SOMBATFAMILY]

1) if you truck have tow package, you probably already have 4 pin and 7 pin connector.
2) the right size ball goes on the square tube usually 2" that fit into you hitch reciever in you truck
3)Small popup probably won't have brakes. All braking is done by tow vehicle
4) age of the popup and maintenance history will determine if you need to grease axel. Ideally you need to remove wheel hub and grease back bearings and front bearings.

5) We all need help at some point.

[stateboy]

I think Sombatfamily did a good job answering your questions. That's why we're all here... to ask questions, to offer answers, to get or offer tips, etc.

Many times you'll see variations in answers to the same question. For example, to answer your question #1, I had to tell the hitch installer to put a 7 pin connector on my van, not a 4 pin like he was planning. There are adaptors to take a 7 pin on a vehicle to a 4 pin on a trailer or a 4 pin on a vehicle to a 7 pin on a trailer. You have to be caeful though. Here's why... the other 3 pins MAY operate important items on the trailer (the other three are electric brakes, charging and back up lights). If you 'dumb' down your 4 pin vehicle to feed a 7 pin trailer that may have all three of those features the 7 pin offers over a 4 pin, your trailer would roll down the road without use of its electric brakes, back up lights and chargability.

To be funny about it, you may come skidding into your remote campsite in the dark without your brakes to slow you down, back up lights to see where you're going (like that tree you can't see) and then find yourself in the dark because your vehicle wasn't charging your trailer battery or keeping the fridge running to keep the lunch meat cold.

Question 2... I'm quite sure you'll need a 2" ball to tow your PUP but look at the tongue of your trailer and you'll see the size needed stamped in there in the 'fine print.'

Question #3... my 'guess' is there are no brakes on the 1006 or 1007 back then either. Check with Jayco, the current owner or others on this forum.

Question #4... to grease the axles properly, you'll need to jack it up. I have E-Z Lube axles so I raise the trailer to spin the tire while I'm slowly pumping grease into the zerk fitting (just the the grease fittings on cars) until it cleanly oozes out the front back at you. The other bearing style will require the removal of the tire to get to them.

Statement #5... my early morning idiotisms have taught me a lot in life. That's why I'm so smart now! [emoji2]

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[stateboy]

Heres an example of 4 to 7 and 7 to 4 pin connectors.

https://www.etrailer.com/search/4+Pin+To+7+Pin+Adapter

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[stateboy]

And here's a thread from this forum to help explain the greasing of the axles. Watch the two videos embedded in it to see the two axle types.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f4...les-45638.html

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[Mustang65]

WELCOME TO JOF!!!

The members here are GREAT!!! There is a lot of GREAT information to be found here. I am sure that you will have information and pictures to share with us... so please do!!

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[MountainBiker]

Originally Posted by SOMBATFAMILY

1) if you truck have tow package, you probably already have 4 pin and 7 pin connector.
2) the right size ball goes on the square tube usually 2" that fit into you hitch reciever in you truck
3)Small popup probably won't have brakes. All braking is done by tow vehicle
4) age of the popup and maintenance history will determine if you need to grease axel. Ideally you need to remove wheel hub and grease back bearings and front bearings.

5) We all need help at some point.

1) I'm pretty sure I've got both 4 and 7 pins. If not the handy adaptor someone else linked too will come in handy.
2) I think the ball I have above the square tube is 2"in but it is so beautifully decorated with a surface dabbling of rust I can't read anything I it if there ever was anything written there.
3) I didn't think I had to deal with breaks given the weight of the trailer but someone else asked me about it in real life so I figured I would ask on here.
4) I'm still confused by how to grease axels. I will check out the link on here and view a few YouTube videos.
5) I a hoping to ask all the right questions and get some good advice from knowledgable folks before needing that help at a point on a dead end road in the mountains with no cell signal.

[MountainBiker]

Originally Posted by 36fire412

I think Sombatfamily did a good job answering your questions. That's why we're all here... to ask questions, to offer answers, to get or offer tips, etc.

Many times you'll see variations in answers to the same question. For example, to answer your question #1, I had to tell the hitch installer to put a 7 pin connector on my van, not a 4 pin like he was planning. There are adaptors to take a 7 pin on a vehicle to a 4 pin on a trailer or a 4 pin on a vehicle to a 7 pin on a trailer. You have to be caeful though. Here's why... the other 3 pins MAY operate important items on the trailer (the other three are electric brakes, charging and back up lights). If you 'dumb' down your 4 pin vehicle to feed a 7 pin trailer that may have all three of those features the 7 pin offers over a 4 pin, your trailer would roll down the road without use of its electric brakes, back up lights and chargability.

To be funny about it, you may come skidding into your remote campsite in the dark without your brakes to slow you down, back up lights to see where you're going (like that tree you can't see) and then find yourself in the dark because your vehicle wasn't charging your trailer battery or keeping the fridge running to keep the lunch meat cold.

Question 2... I'm quite sure you'll need a 2" ball to tow your PUP but look at the tongue of your trailer and you'll see the size needed stamped in there in the 'fine print.'

Question #3... my 'guess' is there are no brakes on the 1006 or 1007 back then either. Check with Jayco, the current owner or others on this forum.

Question #4... to grease the axles properly, you'll need to jack it up. I have E-Z Lube axles so I raise the trailer to spin the tire while I'm slowly pumping grease into the zerk fitting (just the the grease fittings on cars) until it cleanly oozes out the front back at you. The other bearing style will require the removal of the tire to get to them.

Statement #5... my early morning idiotisms have taught me a lot in life. That's why I'm so smart now! [emoji2]

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Thanks a million for the links in your not couple of posts!
1) I think I'm starting to understand trailer connectors and likely have what will be needed for my new pup.
2) All my fine print and fine details are either covered by mud or rust, both on my truck and in real life. I should be able to easily pick up another ball hitch if the one I have isn't the right radius or diameter, or circumference?p
3) All previo sowers have since gotten back to me with either it has no breaks, or well if there are breaks we never used them. So now I guess I don't need to ow how my break controller works.
4) This is the topic I understand the least thus far. I will defiantly be watching some YouTube videos until I have a well duh now moment.
5) Thanks for passing on that knowledge! I have made it a rule to never hit the road till the sun is fully up and my third cup of coffee is fully empty. The trail on the other hand I'll take my chances.

[need-a-vacation]

MTB'r,

Welcome and congrats on looking at a pop up!!!

Will try to help explain a few different terminology to help you.

It sounds like the truck has a "receiver" hitch mounted to the frame. You the slide a "ball mount" into it and secure the ball mount with a pin. The correct size "ball" needs to be securely mounted to prevent any issues.

Depending on how tall your truck sits, and the height of the pop up "coupler" (part that attaches to the "ball") when level, you may need to buy a different ball mount that has more drop or less drop: meaning the distance the ball mount places the top of the ball from the ground. The different ball mounts (usually referred to as "drop") allow you to get the trailer level or close to level.

Etrailer has a ton of videos explaining towing related items. Also, do a search for a video that explains how to choose the correct ball mount. Didn't see it on Etrailer, but probably missed it.

Most states have a trailer brake law based of total trailer weight. Some require brakes for over 2k lbs, others as high as 3k lbs or 3500lbs. Here in Mi it is 3500lbs (if I remember correctly!!!).

Remember that when towing a trailer, the trailer doesn't follow the truck exactly when turning. Like the trucks rear wheels being closer to the curb than the front wheels are, the trailer wheels will be even closer than the rear wheels. So make sure to take turns a little wider than you normally would so you don't run the tires over the curb.

And speaking of tires, check the tires age and condition also!!!! If in doubt, replace them as it is suggested they have a 3-5yr life span, mainly due to a lot of sitting (non use).

When you first get the trailer, go to an empty parking lot, set some orange cones out and practice turning without hitting the cones. And practice backing up as well. Shorter trailer are harder to back up due to the wheel base. But a longer ball mount helps make it easier. The ball mount length is measured from the pin hole to the ball hole.

Looking at pop ups that age, make sure there isn't any water damage. If the damage or wood rot is to bad, the bed ends (part that slide out) can literally fall to the ground. So maybe try to find someone familiar with checking pop ups out to help you.

Good luck, and continue to ask any and all questions!!!!