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Old 08-30-2020, 09:21 AM   #8321
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I got the old laminate off the slide floor and installed carpet, and also on the support wall. I re ran the power cables under the floor. Ran 5 network cables from the roof to the front cap.
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Old 08-30-2020, 05:21 PM   #8322
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I added a 40 gallon fresh water tank to it. It sits in front of the front axle so the majority of the weight will be pin weight. I ran the 1/2” Pex through 3/4” plastic electrical conduit to protect and provide some insulation.
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Old 08-31-2020, 06:44 PM   #8323
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Washed, waxed, detailed inside an out including storage doors with 303, caulked over sky light, installed new bathroom fan, washed roof, loaded fridge for next trip an loaded some dry goods. Not bad for 3 days worth of work, er enjoyment.
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Old 08-31-2020, 07:05 PM   #8324
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Located, and silenced, another squeak, this one whenever I stepped close to the bathroom vanity. When the floor flexed, it rubbed very slightly on the bottom of the vanity wall. Small shim took care of it. Also checked the torque on my Andersen WDH A-frame brackets. All good.
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Old 08-31-2020, 09:54 PM   #8325
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Added led light strips to bottom of my stairs. I connected them to the DS Security lights. Now I can see where I’m stepping. Also had a tire repaired.
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Old 09-01-2020, 06:52 AM   #8326
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Built a storage box for my Hughes Autoformer. In hindsight, I wish I had known about the Hughes before I bought the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Surge Protector. Found it a month or so after installing the PI EMS, but figured I would never need this as we stay mostly at state parks, boy was I wrong.

A recent trip to Gamble Rogers State Park in Flagler Beach, Fl. had us at 108v which made the surge protector drop out due to low voltage. Luckily for us, we found the Autoformer at a Camping World about 30 miles away. Not a big fan of CW, but we were desperate. I had to bypass the PI EMS, which made me very nervous based on the low voltage, but as soon as we hooked up the autoformer, we had no more issues. Waiting on my hardwire kit for the autoformer, but once it comes in, i'll be able to pick and choose which is inline between the pedastal and the RV either or both.
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Old 09-02-2020, 04:39 PM   #8327
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I plugged it in to the 30 A outlet I installed in my front yard. Now I can run the A/C and cool the fridge down on electricity while packing up for a trip! Woo hoo! Heading out next week for 8 days in cooler climates [emoji28]
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Old 09-02-2020, 05:41 PM   #8328
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Got some new tires for the trailer. As I was installing them, I was shocked and terrified to see that I was missing 5 of 8 caliper bolts to my disc brakes! They were all installed per torque spec with blue loctite! Had to order some new ones from Etrailer ($15 a piece!)
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Old 09-02-2020, 08:56 PM   #8329
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Got some new tires for the trailer. As I was installing them, I was shocked and terrified to see that I was missing 5 of 8 caliper bolts to my disc brakes! They were all installed per torque spec with blue loctite! Had to order some new ones from Etrailer ($15 a piece!)
Oh my!
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Old 09-02-2020, 09:53 PM   #8330
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Started our tour to Yellowstone today. First time I drove with the new Fox shocks. What a difference. I installed the Hellwig sway bar first. That made a big difference. I did not think that there was so much more to expect after installing the Swaybar. But the Fox shocks changed the feel. Now the motorhome drives like a pickup. So my advice for you who are thinking to upgrade. Do both! It is about 800 USD if you do the work yourself. It is the best $$$ you can spend. Work is is easy DIY. 2-3 hours the first time. Next time I would probably make it in 11/2 hour.
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:05 PM   #8331
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Couple weekends ago now, tore into the back wall of my tent trailer and left rear corner floor to rid the poor thing of the water leak caused damage. Took better part of a day to tear down, repair/replace and put it back together sans the aluminum and wiring. Which is what I'll be doing either this weekend or next. Just got the trailer late August this year and it needs a bit of TLC.
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Old 09-03-2020, 02:56 PM   #8332
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Got some new tires for the trailer. As I was installing them, I was shocked and terrified to see that I was missing 5 of 8 caliper bolts to my disc brakes! They were all installed per torque spec with blue loctite! Had to order some new ones from Etrailer ($15 a piece!)
Glad you found out about the missing bolts at home... Very scary.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:04 PM   #8333
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Glad you found out about the missing bolts at home... Very scary.

Tell me about it! The truly scary part was one caliper was missing both bolts.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:06 PM   #8334
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@ KeizerTrailer that's some nice looking work. Maybe an opportunity to add more electrical stuff and doodads and thing-a-ma-bobbers.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:12 PM   #8335
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@ KeizerTrailer that's some nice looking work. Maybe an opportunity to add more electrical stuff and doodads and thing-a-ma-bobbers.
Thanks! Have to route channels for the clearance markers and tail light wiring. Once that's all done, I can put the skin back on and seal it back up.
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Old 09-03-2020, 04:41 PM   #8336
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Tell me about it! The truly scary part was one caliper was missing both bolts.
Tom, there has to be a specific reason for that. I would surely contact the mfg. to see what could have possibly caused that. That could be life threatening to say the least.
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:25 PM   #8337
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You could probably lock wire them, so the cannot come undone.
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:25 PM   #8338
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Tom, there has to be a specific reason for that. I would surely contact the mfg. to see what could have possibly caused that. That could be life threatening to say the least.

Al

My guess is it’s negligent maintenance on my part. I should have been checking those on a regular basis. I think the Texas heat could have softened the blue Loctite over time which allowed the bolts to back out due to the vibration of the road. I’m considering using super glue or epoxy on the new bolts! Lol

Looking at the bright side, those calipers cannot come off with the rim attach. There’s simply not enough clearance. They can rub the inside of the rim if completely loose but that’s about it. So I’m not going to dwell on what could have been. [emoji3]
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:25 PM   #8339
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You could probably lock wire them, so the cannot come undone.

I’m thinking of doing something like that actually
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:33 PM   #8340
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Al

My guess is it’s negligent maintenance on my part. I should have been checking those on a regular basis. I think the Texas heat could have softened the blue Loctite over time which allowed the bolts to back out due to the vibration of the road. I’m considering using super glue or epoxy on the new bolts! Lol

Looking at the bright side, those calipers cannot come off with the rim attach. There’s simply not enough clearance. They can rub the inside of the rim if completely loose but that’s about it. So I’m not going to dwell on what could have been. [emoji3]
Anything is possible! Don't be afraid of being generous with your blue Loctite. I use it on all brake fasteners (except the banjo bolts). Don't forget to make sure you hit your torque specs on it all. Even with Loctite, an improperly torqued fastener can still work loose. Glad you found the problem and are fixing it!
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