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Old 10-15-2014, 06:06 AM   #1
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Leveling Problems

We have a new Seismic 3712, and I have a question regarding the lack of leveling that this system does. Just for background, I am coming from a camper with the Lippert 6 point auto leveling system with the hydraulic jacks. That system always leveled the camper from as much as 4 degrees off level side to side.

The system on the Jayco uses only the four corner jacks for leveling, and the two center jacks for stabilization. My problem is that it won't level the camper from even 1.8 degrees off level. Once I get the "out of stroke" fault (it has plenty of stroke left) and the system shuts off, there is no way to extend the center jacks manually, causing a frame bind. Does anyone else have this issue? Surely these campers were made to be used where ground might not be perfectly level.

When it is in a level site, the system works as it should to stabilize the camper.
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:13 PM   #2
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I have had the same problem when not on level ground. I agree with you, that there is plenty of jack left to level and you get the "out of stroke" code.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:08 PM   #3
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I have a '14 3914 with the same exact problem guys. I mean exactly. I am bringing it in to be troubleshot. I will let you know. If you ask me, it needs hydraulic level-up. Way too much for electric. Heartland Cyclone, Grand Design, Forest River, and other manf of similar size 5ers use Hyd. I'm glad I'm not the only one. Djtho1, I had to scroll up and make sure I didn't write that post its so accurate! Let's all keep each other informed.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:11 PM   #4
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And FYI it out of strokes for max amperage, not jack extension. Out of stroke caused by either. It's the final 'short bursts' of rear jack fine tuning under weight that gets it every time, due to sudden high amperage to start the motor under weight, if that makes sense.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:18 PM   #5
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And FYI it out of strokes for max amperage,
Could that be result of undersized wire?
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:23 PM   #6
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Leveling Problems

My thought exactly. I'd like to put a multimeter in the jack side of the rear run and see what voltage is there. That will tell if it is or not. I asked Lippert that when I called tech support a couple times, they say the wires shipped with the package are correct for the run, now whether Jayco uses them or not, not sure but that's a healthy 40' run from the control board. Also read about control board issues, we shall see.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:24 PM   #7
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Here is what Lippert told me, and what I think might be part of our trouble. They agree and say that the hydraulic system is by far the stronger system. I am personally disappointed in Jayco for cheaping out on this part in what is otherwise and excellent coach.

Anyway, what I was told is that the system is designed to have at least 12.5 volts and will throw a fault and stop if the voltage drops below 12.5. My fifth wheel came with a single group 24 battery, which Lippert says is not enough to run the system because once the jacks start drawing on the system it makes the battery drop below 12.5 volts. I have two six volt batteries in there now, and because (at least, in my experience) the "resting voltage" of these batteries tied together is only 12.8 volts or so, it causes the system to fault because, even though they have plenty of "oomph" to run the jacks, they can't maintain that impossibly high voltage. I am switching to a single group 27 until I figure out what to do. What I am looking at is something called a D8 battery, a 12 volt AGM 185 pound monster, but it should give enough reserve to maintain the desired voltage. This is also why they only use the middle jacks for stabilization. It would be difficult if not impossible to draw that much amperage from one battery to run three of these jacks at the same time to pick up one side of the coach.


I still say that this system is a very poor substitute for the hydraulic system. I also think that it could be better with some programming tweaks and the ability to extend any jack manually. Jayco also needs to work with the dealers to make sure the dealers know about the requirements of this system and to size the battery accordingly. Once I told my dealer what lippert said, they swapped me for a group 27. I will see if that works.


Do let us know what your dealer finds out. The more information we have, the better
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:30 PM   #8
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I run with the converter and genny or shore power and same result at 13.6v. Also if it goes low voltage at the board, it will give a low voltage error for below 12.5. Out of stroke is Amps or travel. It's under spec'd. It's a darn option (or was in 14) so I would have paid another 2k for the hydraulic as an option instead of the 3600$ sticker price for the ground control. Yes, poor planning on an otherwise good coach.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:33 PM   #9
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Anyway, what I was told is that the system is designed to have at least 12.5 volts and will throw a fault and stop if the voltage drops below 12.5.
Are you plugged into shore power when it happens as well. If so then voltage should not be an issue. The converter is a 90 amp and should compensate the battery.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:34 PM   #10
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Leveling Problems

Also, as a work around to extend your mids, you can swap the connectors at the box (mid to rear) and go manual and extend mids with the rear button until they hit ground. Usually mine gets me within 0 and .1 and a green dot when it out of strokes(so close loses it in the tweaking), so you're in essence level so it would be safe to drop mids and be done with it. Not recommended obviously, but it's a dirty workaround. Just remember to swap them back when done, so when time to go retract all rear will pull them all up and on you go.
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