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Old 04-29-2017, 11:32 AM   #21
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Lots'a posts about this water heater over in our Class C forum. Several of us have learned to work with it, a few have replaced it.

We've got a Gen II and we've come to 'Détente' with it. It works for us and we're not going to replace it.

As for "dry campers" nightmare, yeah - probably. But the distance between the heater and out fixtures is a pretty long run which I think wastes more water than the heater.
We have gotten to appreciate ours... It took us a while to master the tuning of the heater, but found that turning it down is the key to constant shower temperature...

The issue with wasting a lot of water while waiting for hot water to get to the sink - is solved here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...hot-36132.html
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:43 AM   #22
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That's how I understand it as well. Makes winterization easier than the heaters with tanks. Just turn the unit off and proceed as normal.
There IS a low point drain valve UNDER the Girard you have to open up for winterization.
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:45 AM   #23
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For anyone of you who are going to swap out your Girard for another WH.. PM me if you want to sell your old POS Girard...
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:52 AM   #24
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We have gotten to appreciate ours... It took us a while to master the tuning of the heater, but found that turning it down is the key to constant shower temperature...

The issue with wasting a lot of water while waiting for hot water to get to the sink - is solved here: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...hot-36132.html
The point is we should have to do a bunch of modifications or procedures to have a water heater system that is far less reliable than a tank style hot water heater.
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:01 PM   #25
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For anyone of you who are going to swap out your Girard for another WH.. PM me if you want to sell your old POS Girard...


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Old 04-30-2017, 12:11 PM   #26
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There IS a low point drain valve UNDER the Girard you have to open up for winterization.
No low point drains underneath whatsoever. Manual confirms as well that nothing special needs to be done.
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #27
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No low point drains underneath whatsoever. Manual confirms as well that nothing special needs to be done.
I can only speak for mine... it has it.

The Plumbing documents from Jayco confirm it too.... #52
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:39 PM   #28
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No low point drains underneath whatsoever. Manual confirms as well that nothing special needs to be done.
I haven't done anything w/ drains on mine either; got through 2 winters with only running the pink stuff through all the lines.
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:04 PM   #29
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I can only speak for mine... it has it.

The Plumbing documents from Jayco confirm it too.... #52
There is no low point drain on the water heater itself. The low point drain is located in the water compartment on a Precept. The schematic shows it as remote from the water heater which is how it is on the coach.
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:20 PM   #30
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We have gotten to appreciate ours... It took us a while to master the tuning of the heater, but found that turning it down is the key to constant shower temperature...
Someone else posted they didn't know that there were two generations of Girards, and just FYI - there are three.

We too have pretty much figured out our Girard and for our camping style it's working ok. I had the Atwood 6 gallon before and with three teens (who'd rather not be in the RV anymore to start with) having unlimited hot water makes things a bit more bearable.

There are other vendors of tankless water heaters out there, including Atwood and/or Suburban. The Truma gets good reviews. But if you read the specs, I think all of those other units sink a lot more BTUs into their water flow. And some of them have much 'smarter' temperature controls.

I think we'll always be tankless, but I too wouldn't mind seeing Jayco consider a different vendor.
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Old 05-02-2017, 03:49 PM   #31
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I'm wondering if we might see some complaints about Truma after more people gain experience with them. Whether it's Girard, Truma, or whoever, they are wrestling with some challeging problems in physics, safety margins, and economics. In the end the thing has to be pretty cheap to manufacture; can't be a precision laboratory instrument.
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Old 05-02-2017, 03:52 PM   #32
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Truma has been making boilers and heating equipment for a long time. They seem to be well a known product in European tv's.


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Old 05-02-2017, 05:02 PM   #33
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I'm wondering if we might see some complaints about ...

If we stop you right there, then I'm positive the answer is "Yes!"
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:54 PM   #34
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If we stop you right there, then I'm positive the answer is "Yes!"
The fundamental difference... everyone compares the Storage Tank water heater to the Tankless water heater - but expects the same outcomes. There are arguments for and against both types, depending on what they want / expect from them.

Having had both types for the past 35 years - here are our observations about each:

Tank type: Take Fuel and Time to heat a tank of water - before you can use it. In winter, it could take an hour to heat up before the burner shut off. They need to stay ON and will use more fuel if you want to have hot water two hours from now or tomorrow morning. If you wash your hands and use a little hot water, you will introduce cold water into the tank and it kick on the burner and use more fuel to heat the entire tank back to temperature. If you turn off the faucet and back on again - you get the same hot water from the tank, until it is all gone (cold) and you then have to wait until more fuel and heat are provided to heat that tank of water back to temperature. When you are done with it... you have heated an extra 6-10 gallons of water that was not used.

Tankless: It takes 4-8 seconds for the heater to light and start heating water after the water flow starts. Hot water is exiting the tank and entering the RV plumbing in about 12 seconds. (you do not need the faucet open full, half full works the same) If the water flow is stopped or reduced significantly, the heater will stop until water flow is started again - or the output temperature is below safe temperature (and the start up cycle begins again) Tankless heaters are impacted when the water-flow is interrupted or reduced below it's operating threshold, just as our Home / Commercial Tankless water heater does. Once the water is turned off - the heater is off, using no more fuel.

If you have a wife and kids that do take a long shower, with a tankless - they can shower right after one another and you will have hot water for the last one as did the first - they won't have to wait until the water heater catches up or fight for the first shower as they would with a tank-type.

Tankless heaters are very sensitive to water pressure / flow. They work best at a constant flow volume where they are responding to the output temperature of the heater by adjusting the burner. Inconsistent pressure and water flow result in inconsistent output temperatures as the heater is adjusting for the right temperature on the outlet pipe.

Tank heaters will supply you with Hot water it has in the tank... after you have run the water thru the pipes (like your house waiting for hot water in the shower). Once the pipes have hot water, you can turn the hot water on / off and get hot water that was in the pipes/tank right away... no cold water interruptions.

Which one is right for you? it all depends on how you expect to use it and what you expect out of it. There are benefits to both types, the cost to operate it and of course the cost of the heater... YOU decide.
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:24 AM   #35
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We picked up our 2018 Precept 35S last week and have stayed at a couple rv parks with water hook-ups and dry camped for a couple days. I have nothing but good things to say about the Truma. We have hot water within 5-6 seconds and we can adjust the temp with the cold water. If it continues to work like this I'll be very happy.
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:40 PM   #36
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Ok I've finally finished the install of the new truma water heater and all I can say is I love German engineering! This thing is quiet and performs beautifully.


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