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Old 09-27-2016, 05:06 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by StevL View Post
We just purchased a 2016 Wrangler, our first toad.



Blue Ox baseplate - Also my choice

Blue Ox tow bar with coverAlso my choice

Hopkins toad wiring harness For turn signals?

SMI Stay In Play Duo brake systemI like it but it seems more intrusive than I prefer

7 pin to 6 pin umbilical Does this provide for Wrangler battery charging?

Brake light relay Not sure why this is needed?

I would be happy to answer questions by email or send photos.

Best of luck,
Steve
Thanks Steve, this is the kind of information I need. I've selected Blue Ox tow bar and base plate. Still mulling over the braking system and turn signals. I have a concern about keeping the Wrangler battery charged. I inserted a couple of questions above. I need to have all installed and tested before January 2017 so have a few weeks to purchase and sort things out.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:13 AM   #12
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We have a 2015 JK and I installed the Blue OX baseplate myself. It wasn't too difficult at all. I also used the light wiring in the Blue OX accessory kit to run a completely separate circuit and added a separate bulb for the tail lights. I ordered the Mopar one but didn't like the install and the fact that any device that actuated the brake pedal could back feed the coach.

The separate Hopkins wiring just provides for turn signals? Assume brake lights come on when the RVi brake actuates?

I also went with the RVi Brake over the brake buddy or patriot. I liked the size, control options and the available TPMS sensors for the Jeep.
I reviewed this system and really like the low profile and non-intrusive features plus the display in the RV. Thanks for pointing this one out, had been considering the Blue Ox Patriot but this one appears to have a more positive actuation by not pushing against the seat cushion.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:55 AM   #13
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The Hopkins wiring kit is for the tail lights of your toad, this one is a simple install, all plugs already wired, diodes already in place. *Not sure if the link is for your model.

The brake light replay is for toads that the brakes lights operate full time (when key is off). Easy install.

The 7 to 6 pin Blue Ox umbilical will have a couple pins/blades not used, you may use the Aux Power from your coach to run a charge lead, this will be the center pin on the toad side of the umbilical.

This is the Blue Ox tow bar I used (Avail).

You need to shop around, I bought my tow bar off Amazon for $789. shipped
SMI Stay And Play purchased off Jet.com for $906. shipped
Used E Trailer for Hopkins wiring kit, baseplate, relay, and umbilical.

Steve
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:10 PM   #14
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I have the RVIBrake2 also for my Jeep Wrangler. I love it for the ease of setup, positive low profile location on the floor, and wireless remote for inside the MH. Other than the wire to run out to the front bumper for the disconnect safety plug (which I hope will never get used!) there is no installation, just set in place attach the activator arm to the brake pedal, hit the test button 3 times and go. It only takes about 2 minutes total to setup. and when not is use it is so much smaller than brake buddy to stow. The brake comes with a battery charge device, but on the Jeep it is not needed since I can leave my key turned off. Mine came with TPM kit also and when I had a problem with the TPMs a call to RVIbrake was fast and they sent me replacements right away. Good company, great product.
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Old 09-27-2016, 02:38 PM   #15
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I have the TJ/LJ generation of Jeep Wrangler, so may be a bit different. But the concepts are similar. I set up with a Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain tow bar for ease of unhitching on uneven terrain. I use the Roadmaster Even Brake system, which has a monitor panel inside the motorhome cab for status. Tells when the brakes are being applied, as well as warnings. It has a breakaway function that works with any breakaway switch. It operates on compressed air from a built in compressor driven by the Jeep battery. I hooked up a separate charging line from the 7 pin to 6 pin cable, through a fuse and circuit breaker, to the Jeep battery. So, that gets charging current all the time while the motorhome is running. My wiring harness has built-in diodes, because my Jeep illuminates the brake lights with no key inserted. For this to work, there has to be a harness with diodes so the Jeep tail and brake lights will obey the motorhome while towing, and automatically switch back to the Jeep controls when unhitched. It's all very clean and unobtrusive.

I had a custom front bumper made to accept the towbar lugs, and they double as recovery points for 4 wheeling. So, no base plate to cut down on ground clearance or complicate the mechanicals under the bumper. The nice thing about the Even Brake is that there is no permanent mount point left in the floor of the Jeep when I take it out. Only the radio transmitter to the in-cab monitor panel.

Took about a day worth of time to get everything hooked up, including soldered wire connections wherever possible.
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:28 PM   #16
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Toad update

Thanks to your help I have now purchased a new Blue Ox baseplate for my Wrangler and a pre-owned Alpha tow bar. The tow bar looks almost new and came with the safety cables, 7 pin to 6 pin cable and a breakaway cable without switch. Also included was a Blue Ox 10" drop receiver which I hope not to have to use.

I'm watching a couple of RVi2 brakes on ebay to see how the auctions go before I pull the trigger there.

Still waffling on the Wrangler wiring - two questions:

Is there a conflict between the wrangler brake lights when activated by the RVi2 brake and a brake signal coming from the RV?

I believe the 7 pin/6 pin cable carries a 12V source. Is there any reason not to use that to charge the Wrangler battery from the RV? I would imagine a diode would be required to block the Wrangler battery/alternator from feeding back to the RV? I've read a lot of posts where people start their toads occasionally just to keep the battery up.
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by NickM View Post
Thanks to your help I have now purchased a new Blue Ox baseplate for my Wrangler and a pre-owned Alpha tow bar. The tow bar looks almost new and came with the safety cables, 7 pin to 6 pin cable and a breakaway cable without switch. Also included was a Blue Ox 10" drop receiver which I hope not to have to use.

I'm watching a couple of RVi2 brakes on ebay to see how the auctions go before I pull the trigger there.

Still waffling on the Wrangler wiring - two questions:

Is there a conflict between the wrangler brake lights when activated by the RVi2 brake and a brake signal coming from the RV?

I believe the 7 pin/6 pin cable carries a 12V source. Is there any reason not to use that to charge the Wrangler battery from the RV? I would imagine a diode would be required to block the Wrangler battery/alternator from feeding back to the RV? I've read a lot of posts where people start their toads occasionally just to keep the battery up.
From what I found... Basically any wiring harness that utilizes the factory bulbs can have interference from the brake light triggered by the aux brake. To get around that you'd have to pull the brake fuse so that only the MH would light up the brake lights. I didn't want to deal with pulling fuses and didn't want the "risk" of tampering with the factory jeep wiring so I went the route of a whole new bulb and separate wiring. It really wasn't much more work than installing any of the harnesses.

As far as charging... I haven't crossed that bridge yet. Our Jeep is a 2015 and doesn't have a steering wheel lock so the key is off and in my pocket. Only the aux brake is drawing power and from what I've read most are getting 2-3 days of towing before the battery drains much.
You're in a different situation with the 07 so a charger may be a good idea if you're going to tow for many hours at a time without starting the jeep.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:11 PM   #18
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I was talking to a camper last month who had a problem with his toad battery running down while traveling due to the ignition being in the aux mode. He said they wired a small battery tender that was powered by 12vdc from his truck that charged the battery while on the road.

It looked smaller than a matchbox under the hood of his toad.

He said it solved the problem.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM View Post
Thanks to your help I have now purchased a new Blue Ox baseplate for my Wrangler and a pre-owned Alpha tow bar. The tow bar looks almost new and came with the safety cables, 7 pin to 6 pin cable and a breakaway cable without switch. Also included was a Blue Ox 10" drop receiver which I hope not to have to use.

I'm watching a couple of RVi2 brakes on ebay to see how the auctions go before I pull the trigger there.

Still waffling on the Wrangler wiring - two questions:

Is there a conflict between the wrangler brake lights when activated by the RVi2 brake and a brake signal coming from the RV?

I believe the 7 pin/6 pin cable carries a 12V source. Is there any reason not to use that to charge the Wrangler battery from the RV? I would imagine a diode would be required to block the Wrangler battery/alternator from feeding back to the RV? I've read a lot of posts where people start their toads occasionally just to keep the battery up.
Brake light conflict is resolved if you choose the separate bulb and separate wiring option. If you want to use the existing Jeep lighting circuit and avoid complications, there are several considerations. Scenario 1) is whether the Jeep brake lights illuminate when you depress the Jeep brake pedal with keys OUT and in your pocket. If so, you need diodes in the wiring somewhere, because every time your auxiliary brake system depresses the Jeep brake pedal, it will override your motorhome turn signals. Scenario 2) If power from the motorhome brake light and turn signal circuit feeds back to the Jeep body computer controller and screws something up (don't know if this is the case with your particular year), then you also need the diodes in this case. Diodes can be part of a plug-in add-on wiring harness. There are several on the market. I purchased mine at eTrailer.com. Works perfectly in my 2006 LJ Jeep Wrangler. If you string separate wiring and bulbs, mount them inside the existing tail light housings, you eliminate scenario 2, but not scenario 1.

Charging circuit: This is what I did with mine. Requires extra wiring and I put both a fuse and a circuit breaker in my charging wiring on the Jeep. I think my circuit breaker is 20 amp and my fuse is 25. Your 7 pin plug will have one pin designated for a constant 12v output any time the motorhome motor is running. You need to be sure there is a fuse in the motorhome chassis fuse block to supply it. Most factories supply one with the new chassis, but do not plug it in. So, most of those pins in the connector aren't seeing power until you plug in that fuse/relay. It's probably a 40 amp, and your owner's manual will likely point out that location. You will have to do custom wiring from the Jeep-end of the umbilical cable to the Jeep battery, with the circuit breaker and/or fuse in line. I used 10 ga primary wire for that. Would not use anything smaller, and don't try it with a very low battery. It will keep the Jeep battery topped off all the time. To test if it's working when you hook it all up, test voltage of the Jeep battery with motorhome engine OFF. It will likely be somewhere around 12-12.5 volts. Start the motorhome and test Jeep battery voltage again. If it's > 13v or 13.4v, your system is working.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:16 PM   #20
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Almost forgot, if you have Scenario 1, you will also need a brake light isolation relay for the Jeep brake circuit. That was also purchased at eTrailer, and requires cutting the Jeep's existing brake wire between the switch on the brake pedal and the brake lights at the rear of the Jeep. A bit scary, but it's really not if you take your time and choose the right wire.
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