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04-28-2017, 06:16 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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Auto fan switch from airswitchrv install
Well I'm disappointed in my auto fan switch. It turns the fan off. But by the time the air kicks back on the camper is way to hot . I've tried moving the soil thermostat wire trying to find a spot it will work. Looks like I'm going to just remove the switch. And deal with the fan running all the time.[emoji19]
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04-29-2017, 12:56 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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It actually works great if you get the thermostat capillary set just right (out the vent hole and pointed upwards just outside of the cold air output vent).
Before doing this, try turning the thermostat up until the unit comes on right as the room is at the temperature you think the AC should come on. Now you may find the room gets too cold before it shuts off. This will depend on your room size.
This is called hysteresis (or swing). This is when the AC turns on vs. when it turns off per the room temperature. It's not directly related to the airswitchrv mod itself, but more of a by-product of where the thermostat capillary is from factory.
As stated above, you can correct the problem by placement of the thermostat capillary end out thru the filter vent grill and upwards close to the cold air output vent. By just moving it a little bit farther into the room or closer to the cold air output (less than 1/4" adjustment) you can get the hysteresis set just nearly perfect to your liking.
There is a link with photos about the hysteresis mod at the airswitchrv site. Contact them for the link. Getting it set as shown on their site will get the hysteresis set literally so it will come on or shut off within just a second or two of you feeling like it should.
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04-29-2017, 01:21 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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Problem is all my air is ducted. I can stick the thermostat end through the filter grill. But there is not a vent or duct close enough to blow on the end of it.
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04-29-2017, 01:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,079
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If you have a ducted system your thermostat should have an auto setting that cycles the fan with the compressor.
__________________
 DISNEY LOVERS
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04-29-2017, 02:07 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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Nope the slx models don't have that option.
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04-29-2017, 06:47 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn10point
Problem is all my air is ducted. I can stick the thermostat end through the filter grill. But there is not a vent or duct close enough to blow on the end of it.
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Ah you've got the ducted setup (8330) rather than a normal ceiling assembly which has cold air blowing out as well as warm air being sucked in. The problem is that you've brought the capillary out too far.
The cold (as from factory utilized) is actually up inside the air uptake where you're just below the unit, i.e. the cold generated by your AC.
Like I said above, we're talking about very small changes to find the right placement. If you keep the capillary up in the roof area as factory, it will sense much colder air than in your room. That's how it works normally.
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04-29-2017, 07:04 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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In other words, if you measured the temperature where that capillary normally sits up in the ceiling assembly cavity, it's much colder up in there than it is in your room (at the moment your room seems adequately cold). That capillary expects very cold air for it to turn the compressor off. Even shut completely off it's very cold up in the ceiling cavity below the actual AC unit.
Find the middle spot and you'll have perfect swing/hysteresis. Again, it's based on your room size. This means perhaps not bringing the capillary actually out thru the filter grill but just to it.
But moving the capillary closer to the inside cabin air and farther away from the inside of that cold unit will guarantee you variations in the hysteresis and allow you to refine it to your preference. Always set the tstat so it comes on when you feel it's hot in the room.
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04-29-2017, 07:31 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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I had it set just above the grill today. It cools and cuts off. But by the time it comes back on its way to warm in the camper. I am cooling a 21ft jayco with a 15000 btu. I will adjust things some more. I was told the entire copper tube on mine read temp. And not just the tip. Does that sound right.
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04-29-2017, 07:45 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertASRV
In other words, if you measured the temperature where that capillary normally sits up in the ceiling assembly cavity, it's much colder up in there than it is in your room (at the moment your room seems adequately cold). That capillary expects very cold air for it to turn the compressor off. Even shut completely off it's very cold up in the ceiling cavity below the actual AC unit.
Find the middle spot and you'll have perfect swing/hysteresis. Again, it's based on your room size. This means perhaps not bringing the capillary actually out thru the filter grill but just to it.
But moving the capillary closer to the inside cabin air and farther away from the inside of that cold unit will guarantee you variations in the hysteresis and allow you to refine it to your preference. Always set the tstat so it comes on when you feel it's hot in the room.
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And keep in mind that if you don't wait long enough you may get fooled a bit by the actual temperature up in the upper cavity vs. your tstat setting  . It's tricky.
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04-29-2017, 07:55 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn10point
I had it set just above the grill today. It cools and cuts off. But by the time it comes back on its way to warm in the camper. I am cooling a 21ft jayco with a 15000 btu. I will adjust things some more. I was told the entire copper tube on mine read temp. And not just the tip. Does that sound right.
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The copper tube does affect things somewhat, but not as much as the tip. On the placement mentioned above the capillary length is (partially at least) being run out thru a vent hole and not in a very cold area.
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04-29-2017, 07:57 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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Right now I have the tip just inside the filter grill
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04-29-2017, 08:01 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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I just now set it. I turned the knob to high cool. And turned the thermostat knob till the compressor kick on.
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04-29-2017, 08:34 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn10point
I just now set it. I turned the knob to high cool. And turned the thermostat knob till the compressor kick on.
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Ok. So watch how cold it gets before it shuts off. If it gets too cold, move the cap closer to the cold air inside the ceiling assembly closer to the upper unit. If it doesn't get cold enough, move it more towards the outside room air.
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04-29-2017, 08:38 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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The compressor kicked off and the fans shut off. But now it is very warm and the compressor hasn't kick back on. I can get it to cool great. But can't never get it to come back on soon enough
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04-29-2017, 08:42 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn10point
The compressor kicked off and the fans shut off. But now it is very warm and the compressor hasn't kick back on. I can get it to cool great. But can't never get it to come back on soon enough
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Like I said previous, turn up the tstat when it feels warm where it should come on. Just enough that it comes on. Then measure how cold it gets before it shuts off. Try to diminish this amount by getting the cap closer to the colder air inside the ceiling assembly.
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05-05-2017, 03:14 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Muskoka ON
Posts: 155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tn10point
The compressor kicked off and the fans shut off. But now it is very warm and the compressor hasn't kick back on. I can get it to cool great. But can't never get it to come back on soon enough
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Did you get things working okay?
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05-05-2017, 04:01 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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No I finally give up. The last time I tried it. It took almost 45mins. Before the compressor kicked back on. I'm sure if you have air that is not ducted it would work great.
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05-05-2017, 05:25 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Muskoka ON
Posts: 155
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That’s too bad, sorry to hear that. I have the switch and a ducted system also and plan to install it later this summer. I will let you know how it goes.
John
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05-05-2017, 05:29 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Morristown
Posts: 54
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I might play with mine some more later on. I left the switch installed. Just have switched to factory now. I don't care for the fan noise all the time. But I did realize the fan keeps the inside from getting stuffy. By keeping the air moving around on hot days
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05-05-2017, 05:42 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Muskoka ON
Posts: 155
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Yes it may just need a little tweaking to get just right, sometimes a guy just needs a break from it and come back to it later. I don’t care for the fan running all the time especially at night, but you are right it does keep the trailer from getting stuffy. I’m sure we will get them working.
John
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Linear Mode
