Originally Posted by rgchak
I know that this will sound to simple for anyone to take seriously but I installed a simple 30 amp toggle switch (on/off) on the side of the junction box attached to the frame. The ground wire from the coach (white wire) to one side of the switch and the other side of the switch has the ground wire (white wire) going to the battery. The switch acts the same as removing the ground wire from the battery. 30 amp is more then adequate since the highest rated fuse in my 27DSRL is 20 amp for the slide motor. Those large red battery isolating switches, that people like to use, are rated to handle up to 500 amps for the automotive starter draw.
One of the major issues with toggle switches is that they are not designed for the arching that takes place while connecting and disconnecting from the battery. This is why those main low voltage switches are designed to handle the high amperage. They have a different contact material that keeps the contacts from deteriorating with use. A lot of people look at the toggle switch and it's rating is for 20 or 30 amps, but the rating is for 110VAC ratings and not DC ratings.
For RV battery disconnects, I would recommend that you purchase switches designed specifically to handle the possibility of a high amperage disconnect. They will last a lot longer than a regular toggle switch and eliminate the possibility of disintegrating should a higher load go across the contacts.
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