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Old 01-09-2016, 10:58 PM   #91
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Last update from my dealership, our rig will be coming off the line on 2/11 and should be be ready for pickup by the 19th. We just sold our X23B, so we are counting down the days.
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Old 01-11-2016, 11:49 AM   #92
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I had already put the rig back on the ground after the wet bolt / x-factor install, but before I left for work, decided I wanted new shoes for it. So, put it back up in the air and took all 4 wheels off, again. New Maxxis are sitting in the shop now, waiting for me to get home in a few weeks. I debated going the new wheels / LT route, but beings we might be getting a second rig to full time in, I opted to do the Maxxis and go up a load range. I already have a new owner for the Rainier tires (1 year / 6k miles on them). Could've sold them, but had a coworker I've been friends with for years that needed some for one of his trailers, so Merry Christmas it was.
I had Maxxis M8008s installed as well. I'm VERY happy with them so far. I've only got one trip with the new shoes under my belt, but I'm expecting to get MANY more worry-free miles out of them!
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:20 PM   #93
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Sorry for all of the questions, but...

1) What is wrong with the stock Rainier tires?

2) Why did you choose Proguard Liquid Roof versus something like Eternabond tape? I am planning on using the latter because I am incompetent with anything that involves a caulk gun.

3) Those cross members are an awesome idea, do you see any issue with finding suitable steel U-channel, cutting it to length, and welding it directly to the leaf spring hangers? The Mor-Ryde kit is a bit pricey, especially with the current exchange rates.

4) My trailer did not come with an enclosed underbelly, I am planning on using corrugated plastic sheets, M4 clip nuts and M4 bolts to make my own and add some insulation for camping in April. What do you think? I want to drill the smallest possible holes in the frame, I think M3 is the smallest I could go, but the thought of a panel ripping off at 100kph worries me...

5) I use the onboard water pump quite a bit and it REALLY annoys me. I installed a 2gal pump tank to reduce its frequency of operation, but I am considering moving it to the enclosed underbelly outside of the living space as a final solution. Ever heard of this being done? Any concerns?

Thank for any advice, concerns, comments, or ridicule!
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:14 PM   #94
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motorbreath,


1) Nothing wrong with the Rainiers. They are too new to the industry for my liking without much of a proven track record. We put a LOT of miles, normally, on our rigs, and I didn't want to find out how good or bad they were the hard way.


2) I have used Eternabond, and it's great, but I prefer something I can redo, easily. I have had great success with the Proguard stuff. Eternabond is almost permanent to some degree. VERY difficult to remove. I prefer to have the option to undo or redo if I want. I have nothing against Eternabond, I just don't use it much. I prefer the thick liquid method, as it fills every void, it's very thick, and I can see the seal. It is applied with a brush or roller (I used a brush), so no caulk gun needed. Some will argue with my opinions and methods, and that's ok, but I've used it for a good while, full timing, etc, and it holds up very well.


3) You are spot on with building your own. I was going to do this since I weld and fabricate a good bit. Just so happened I received a generous donation to the cause, and bought the MorRyde. I prefer not to weld directly to the spring hangers, only because it may create issues with a tank removal or the underbelly being removed later. Not always the case, but possible. LCI's similar fix does show a direct weld of a cross member. I prefer the bolt / clamp method. I can remove and reuse later if I want to. For what I paid, I probably will put them on the next rig.


4) Nothing wrong with your idea at all. The factory Chloroplast is tucked up above the I-beam and self tap screwed to the cross members. Some manf do this (tucked), some don't (just screwed to the I-beam). I like it tucked, although harder to remove, as it's looks a little neater and doesn't require any holes in the I-beam itself. I say go for it. You have the chance to do a better job, and better insulate. I also prefer to create access points for different things. Beings you will be installing an enclosed underbelly, now's a good chance to run a heat duct to your liking, and / or install 12v heat pads to the tanks and valves.


5) Never heard of moving all of it underneath, but have seen a lot of great vibration isolators made, all home made contraptions. Wood, foam, wood sandwich with pump mounted on top is just one of those I've seen. Also have seen rubber, springs, and other stuff. Anything to isolate the vibration. I'm guessing the vibration noise is the biggest aggravation. Pros and cons to installing pump in underbelly. Freezing being the biggest issue, maybe.
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:21 PM   #95
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motorbreath,


.................................... Beings you will be installing an enclosed underbelly, now's a good chance to run a heat duct to your liking, and / or install 12v heat pads to the tanks and valves.
I will strongly second this modification (electric heat pads) with heat traces on the plumbing. I will be making this mod before my trip to Alaska. Set the controller to 35-40 degrees F and forget. Only runs when needed.

Sure wish it was offered as an option. That way you can protect your RV from freeze damage even when you have it in storage or not running the furnace. Very efficient, as well. May even eliminate the need to winterize every year for some of us.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
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Old 01-11-2016, 10:00 PM   #96
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BigJohnD, Fairenatic, thanks for the advice, I am going to stock and prep over the next few months. I will start the upgrades in late March once it starts to warm up! I forgot to mention, I am also going to install the wet bolt kit, did this to my car hauler a few months ago and the difference is huge!
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:15 PM   #97
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BigJohnD, did you just install wet bolts or did you install a heavy duty suspension kit with wet bolts? I want to install the HD suspension kit from Dexter, which includes wet bolts, but there are two versions for 33" (K71-359-00) and 35" (K71-449-00) axle spacings. I just measured mine this morning, they are 34"...?! What did you use?

Also, I am thinking about putting off the suspension cross members and instead installing shocks on both axles. The cross members might interfere with the shocks installation and so I want to install them first. I tow with a 1500 and most of the time things are fine, but frequently I'll hit a joint on the highway and it does not feel so great.

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motorbreath,


3) You are spot on with building your own. I was going to do this since I weld and fabricate a good bit. Just so happened I received a generous donation to the cause, and bought the MorRyde. I prefer not to weld directly to the spring hangers, only because it may create issues with a tank removal or the underbelly being removed later. Not always the case, but possible. LCI's similar fix does show a direct weld of a cross member. I prefer the bolt / clamp method. I can remove and reuse later if I want to. For what I paid, I probably will put them on the next rig.
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Old 01-17-2016, 12:11 AM   #98
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All I changed out was the wet bolts, shackles, bushings, and installed the cross members. All springs, u-bolts etc are oem Dexter. I see the only thing that the HD suspension kit includes extra is the equalizer. I already had the MorRyde CRE-3000 equalizer, so no need. Not sure which equalizer you have, but if not the CRE-3000 or equivalent, I'd recommend at least that opposed to the rigid equalizer. That itself does make a difference. The MorRyde wet bolt kit includes all wet bolts, lock nuts, HD shackles and bronze bushings, all for around $100 from Tweetys I think. Oddly enough, the MorRyde kit uses Dexter wet bolts and lock nuts, but MorRyde shackles, which are almost identical to the Dexter HD shackles.


Not sure which shock kit you're considering, but the "Joy Rider" shock kit is pretty simple, and will not interfere with the cross members. The LCI kit installs on the outer side opposed to the inner, and still shouldn't interfere with the cross members. I don't have shocks, but if I wanted them, I'd probably opt for the Joy Rider set up or fabricate a similar system and use my choice of shocks.


I've only had one rig with shocks, and it had the upper scale MorRyde suspension as well. Smooth enough to leave a glass on the table and it still be there when you get there. The Jayco doesn't do that well, but decent with the CRE. Shocks wouldn't hurt.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:22 AM   #99
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3) Roof TLC. Everybody has their opinion on what works and doesn't work on a roof. Believe me, I have researched almost every one manufactured and talked with all of them. I haven't kept a rig long enough to justify doing a sprayed roof, so I've done other things. The last several rigs, I've just coated the seams and other areas. On the EPDM roofs, we use the ProGuard Liquid Roof. On this TPO roof, we used another product made by ProGuard that you can't buy in any RV store. Similar to the Liquid Roof though. The stuff fills every void, and makes a nice slick surface, and cleans easier than the roof itself. No more lap sealant deteriorating, turning black etc. We used this method while full timing, and I can tell you it looked the same the day we sold it as it did the day it was put on. Of course coated the skylights as well. If you saw my previous mod with the insulation, panel and LED decoration in the ceiling, you'd know why it's coated.
Did you use Pro guard liquid roof F9991 on your roof?
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:53 PM   #100
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I used the F9991 on previous rigs with the Dicor EPDM roof. This time I used the supercoat for TPO / F9951. I called Pro Guard and discussed the manf. / type of roof and what I was doing. You won't find the super coat in any RV stores though. I got it directly from them.
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