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Old 01-21-2016, 03:30 PM   #101
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I used the F9991 on previous rigs with the Dicor EPDM roof. This time I used the supercoat for TPO / F9951. I called Pro Guard and discussed the manf. / type of roof and what I was doing. You won't find the super coat in any RV stores though. I got it directly from them.
Refresher: What was the total cost on that particular project?

I've seen a few guys Eternabond all their seams, but you speak highly of this particular application, and I can see a lot of ways it might actually be easier than Eternabond.

Only thing I would like it to do that Eternabond does is get around the corners around the edges and wrap down under the gutters. Alas, this is a project that will unfortunately be put off for some time, but when the time comes, I'd like to get ALL the seams covered as best I can.

Side note: I had the dealer Eternabond my slide roof as part of a warranty repair, and I noticed just the other day that one of the edges has lost adhesion in at least one spot. I'll have to address that one sooner rather than later.
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:46 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by BigJohnD View Post
I used the F9991 on previous rigs with the Dicor EPDM roof. This time I used the supercoat for TPO / F9951. I called Pro Guard and discussed the manf. / type of roof and what I was doing. You won't find the super coat in any RV stores though. I got it directly from them.
Guess I need to figure out which roof I have on my 2015 then.
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:51 PM   #103
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TreatCG, the 2015 should be the Dicor Diflex II TPO roof.


Bob, I can't remember the exact cost. The PG Liquid Roof is around $30 a quart. I usually use 2, and have some left over. If you're only doing seams, 1 quart is plenty. I do all the skylights though. It all depends on just how far you want to go. The super coat was a shade more cost wise. Even though my slide roof had the dicor version of Eternabond across the T-molding area, I still sanded all of it and coated it well. Everything that is coated is holding up really well. You can go over the side a little if you want. It is thick stuff, and will only run if you get crazy with it.
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:03 PM   #104
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Just got in from offshore yesterday evening, so really hadn't had time to do too much. Today, managed to get the new shoes put on (Maxxis M8008) and get the rig back on the ground. Also redid the under bunk heat utilizing a duct this time. The whole idea really was to get the heat back to the area with the black flush line, water inlet, outdoor shower, and get a little heat underneath the main shower.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:49 AM   #105
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Question

BigJohn, Excellent write up! Thanks for all the detail.
I've been pondering the wet bolt addition and have a question and I'd like your opinion.
Do you think using a "Trailer Aid" type jack to lift one wheel at a time would position the equalizer making removal of the shackles difficult?
I'm envious of your shop!

If anyone else wants to chime in on this I'd appreciate the comments.
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:24 PM   #106
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RE: Trailer Aid Jack.. I was wondering the same thing...

JD...

I saw you had a screen over your Heater Vent... how did you make that / attach it?

On our last camper we were in a Tropical Storm (while in Williamsburg, VA of all places) and it rained so hard sideways water came in that Vent hole and we ended up with water inside the trailer, so some way over covering it if need be is something I was trying to figure out.
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:22 PM   #107
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Sorry for the late reply. Have been trying to get things squared away with the rig and other trailer to get out of here. Was supposed to leave Tuesday, but rain plus the dirt road we live on didn't permit, plus the site we're going to was a little too wet. Tomorrow should be the day. All is in the shop locked and loaded ready to depart in the morning, finally. South LA, here we come, again.


RedHorse1 / Mike, I'm not sure how well the trailer aid would work. It's just so much easier to get the whole thing off the ground where everything can be lose and moved around a little. It just goes together so much easier. I have a feeling if you attempted that route, you'd have some choice words and detour to the jacking / blocking route. MorRyde had made the comment on my pictures that the way I had done it is the best and easiest way really. Personally, I'd be doing the method I did, just for simplicity and ease of installation. 2 - 12 ton bottle jacks I already had (purchased from Walmart), plenty of cribbing or jack stands, and I just walked the trailer up about an inch at a time with the help of my wife (one side up an inch and blocked, the other side up an inch and blocked etc etc. I raised the front jack a good bit before jacking where the end results would be somewhat level, and they were. If you plan to get it done asap and in a day, probably even better to leave it hooked to the truck as an extra safety measure. I needed the truck for work and took my time so it wasn't hooked up.



RedHorse1, I take it you don't have the auto level system on your Premier? I had it on our last rig, and of course that would've made life way to simple. Never happens that way in my shop.

Mike, the screen on the heater vent is one I had laying around from a Suburban water heater. I probably had at least 6 different screens, but over the last year I have used them on other peoples rigs. The bigger one I had that would've covered the whole thing was used on my father in law's rig last year. I secured this one the same as any other would be with the springs. It's not a permanent solution, just one of those "better something than nothing" solutions. I had planned to make a contraption similar to a vent shade design out of aluminum, but hadn't got around to it. So far, I hadn't got any water beyond the plastic piece you see if you remove the grill / exhaust tube from the outside. Sideways rains though, like you said presents a problem. I like Atwood water heaters, but honestly this design stinks compared to some of the previous ones I've had. I'll come up with something this year, and I'll for sure post what I do.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:10 PM   #108
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BigJohn,
Thanks for the insight! The delay is no prob, the 5th is at our dealer for some end-of-warranty work.
My bearings will get serviced this spring and I'm thinking about the wet bolt change at the same time. Since I posted I've done some searching and now think the ramp might not be enough to lift the companion tire. Your observations and suggestions got me to realize that lifting one side could put things in a small bind (your reference to colorful language). Our 5th tips in at 12700# at the last weighing. I have 4 3 ton stands but the are most likely too short plus that many more lighter ones.
Your "cribbing" comments may be the thing, I have some but will likely need more.
That leaves the jacks, I have 1 large and one small floor jack and a bottle Jack that may be a bit small (it's in the 5th so I can't check).
So down the current thought line some cribbing and a (probably 2) bottle jacks are in order. I think I have the rest of the tools to get the job done, although for me no project can be called successful without a min of 3 trips to the hardware or auto parts (or HF) store.
I'll keep mulling this over till I actually jump into it so maybe I can come up with some more ideas.
Your input is sincerely appreciated as are your detailed postings!
Safe travels.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:28 PM   #109
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Thank you RedHorse1. I had 2 floor jacks I used to position the axles. When removing the original bolts / shackles, I used one floor jack per axle. Just jacked up barely enough to catch the weight of the axle for removing bolts / shackles. No damage to axle as it's on the axle weight itself at that point once everything is on blocks.


The bottle jacks I used were definitely too short. All of the cribbing I used was repurposed 6x6's cut into short lengths. I did use 2 layers of 6x6's under the bottle jacks to get them high enough. Once everything was up in the air, I also utilized the scissor jacks (with more cribbing) and some other screw type jack stands. Overkill, yes. I had 12 support points under the rig, plus the tongue jack.
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:30 PM   #110
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Quote:
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Just got in from offshore yesterday evening, so really hadn't had time to do too much. Today, managed to get the new shoes put on (Maxxis M8008) and get the rig back on the ground. Also redid the under bunk heat utilizing a duct this time. The whole idea really was to get the heat back to the area with the black flush line, water inlet, outdoor shower, and get a little heat underneath the main shower.

Nice work as usual John
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