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Old 12-12-2015, 09:41 PM   #51
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Finally getting around to installing the MorRyde wet bolts / shackles and the X-Factor bracing on the spring mounts. More pictures to come, but for now here's the rig up on piers, blocks, jacks and everything else. Took a whole 10-15 minutes maybe to get it up in the air with the help from my wife. I'm an overkill type person, so including the tongue jack, there are 15 points of contact from frame to ground. I feel a little better about crawling under it the way I have it supported. Hard to see everything in the picture, but there's a lot of support. Anyway, more to come in the next day or so as time allows.
Subscribed. When you're done, can I borrow your shop?
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Old 12-12-2015, 09:46 PM   #52
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I love doing this stuff, so yes, I'd probably let you borrow a bay. Way more room than what's in the picture.
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:59 PM   #53
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I usually don't do much work on Sundays, but decided to get started on the suspension. A couple of hours into it at a very slow take my time pace and I'm over half way done with it. It is very simple and straight forward in my eyes, but, if you're not mechanically inclined, I'd steer clear of this project completely, or hire someone to do it. Things can go wrong. I'd be happy to help someone do it if they don't mind driving to the boonies, and I wouldn't charge over $100 / hr like the RV dealers do.

You can do google searches and find all kinds of feedback and posts on doing the wet bolts, but I'll throw in my 2 cents.
There are a few things I would suggest having on hand. If you don't have them, I'd consider getting them. If you decide not to get them, there are other ways of doing it, but there will be less cursing and effort using what's in the pictures.

First Picture: Tools. It's captain obvious you'll need a few sockets, socket wrench and box / open end wrenches, but there are a few more things that will keep it easy. First, keep at least one of the old bolts that you remove from the shackles. Grind off the serrated portion of the bolt. You will use this later to help tap in the new bronze bushings. Second, I highly recommend having one of these ball joint service kits. You can pick one up at Harbor Freight, or I'm sure other places have them. This tool will be primarily used to press in the new bolts, and believe me, it makes it simple. Yes, you can beat the bolts in with a socket or pipe over the grease zerk, or use a C-Clamp with a few sockets, but trust me, if you just get the ball joint tool, you'll thank yourself. And, of course the torque wrench, if you have one. I suppose you can always roughneck tighten it or go by feel. I went by torque specs, and maybe a little more. Not pictured, but you know you'll need them, jacks. I've had the luxury of 6 point hydraulic leveling jacks before, but not this time. This time, 2 - 12 ton bottle jacks and an awesome wife to help. Of course you'll need a few floor jacks to suspend the axles when you start taking stuff apart. So, at a minimum, 2 bottle jacks, 2 floor jacks.

Second Picture: Here's the ball joint tool being used to press the bolts into the shackle halves. The same concept will be used on the spring hangers on the frame. Now that you see how this works, imagine using a C-Clamp. The ball joint tool is open on the end where the C-Clamp would be closed. This open end allows the bolt to come through. The piece on the threaded end is open in the middle allowing the grease zerk to fit without getting damaged.

Third Picture: Here's one of the old bolts I kept for installing the bronze bushings in the leaf springs. I had put the new bushings in the freezer for a good while to try and shrink them a tad for easier installation, but they were still snug. Take one of the bolts, and a die grinder made quick work of getting rid of the serrated part. Now the bushing will slide right over the bolt, and you can use this to gently tap the new bushing in. Works very well. I cleaned and greased the spring hole and the bushings before installation.

Fourth and Fifth Picture: Here's what was done today. Wet bolts on the center hanger, new wet bolts and shackles, and of course the center MorRyde X-Factor transverse brace. Tomorrow will be the forward and aft X-Factor brace and of course the wet bolts / bushings on the forward and aft springs / hangers.

To Be Continued. I'll be finishing up tomorrow, and I'll take more pictures of installing he bushings, using the ball joint too, installing the X-Factor bracing and all that good stuff. Today just wasn't a picture day.
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:15 AM   #54
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Looks great. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:21 AM   #55
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Outstanding work! Thanks for all the write ups with pics. You should put an article in the rv magazine each month.
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:27 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by BigJohnD View Post
A couple of hours into it at a very slow take my time pace and I'm over half way done with it. It is very simple and straight forward in my eyes, but, if you're not mechanically inclined, I'd steer clear of this project completely, or hire someone to do it. Things can go wrong. I'd be happy to help someone do it if they don't mind driving to the boonies, and I wouldn't charge over $100 / hr like the RV dealers do.
You can do google searches and find all kinds of feedback and posts on doing the wet bolts, but I'll throw in my 2 cents.
I'll be finishing up tomorrow, and I'll take more pictures of installing he bushings, using the ball joint too, installing the X-Factor bracing and all that good stuff. Today just wasn't a picture day.
Gee, and I thought all I had to do was to jack up the trailer on one side and start replacing stuff. Silly me. I'd love your help John but a 1400 mile round trip isn't likely. Keep the info coming, greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:12 PM   #57
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Alright, it's done. I did take a lot more pictures and will have to make several posts to get them all in here, but if it helps someone out, it's worth it.

First Picture: This is one of the original nylon bushings. Some say they can come out easy. Not the case with mine. They all required persuasion.

Second Picture: This is one of the old bolts I talked about in yesterday's posts, with one of the new bronze bushings on it. Now you see the purpose in grinding off the serrated part.

Third Picture: This is the spring eye with the nylon bushing removed, cleaned up and greased up.

Fourth Picture: Here's the old bolt with new bronze bushing. You can lightly tap on the bolt and in the bushing goes.

Fifth Picture: And here's the new bushing installed.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:25 PM   #58
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First Picture: Here's the spring eye with new bolt installed through hanger. The serrated part still has to be set.

Second Picture: Here's that ball joint tool in use. Makes it SOOO much simpler pressing the bolt in.

Third Picture. Here's the bolt seated in the hanger.

Fourth Picture: When installing the X-Factor bracing, the kit comes with longer wet bolts. This picture shows the longer bolt with the part next to the hanger ready for the bracing.

Fifth Picture: The X-Factor bracing comes in 2 pieces. This is the first piece put on the bolt and hand tightened for now.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:34 PM   #59
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First Picture: And here's the second half of the X-Factor brace, along with my beautiful knee I had surgery on (The reason I'm just now doing this stuff).

Second Picture: And here's the bracing secured. There are 8 bolts in the center of the X-Factor. Everything is pretty much loose fit, then the wet bolts torqued on each side, then I tightened up the upper clamp straps seen in next picture, then torqued the 8 bolts that tie the 2 halves together.

Third Picture: Here's the strap on the bracing that clamps the upper portion to the hanger.

Fourth Picture: Here's the finished shackle installation with the load back on the wheels. Yes, I cleaned the grease off of the fittings.

Fifth Picture: Another shot of the finished product from underneath.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:47 PM   #60
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And one more shot of the finished product.

So here's a breakdown of the cost for those interested:
MorRyde Wet Bolt Kit: $101.80
MorRyde X-Factor Kit: $419.40 (This is for 3 braces)
Total Project Cost: $521.20

I debated making vs. purchasing the bracing. I do a good bit of welding / fabricating, so duplicated the X-factor would have been pretty simple. Somewhere around that debate, I received a generous donation to the cause, therefore I purchased. All parts were purchased from Tweety's with free shipping.

For those that follow my threads / posts and for those that compliment, thank you. I hope we cross paths, and just know that if you're ever in west central Louisiana, look me up please. I love to talk shop, or RV.


If you've asked, why the wet bolts, why the X-Factor? Preventative measures. The wet bolts should be a standard thing on ALL RVs. I was fortunate and only had 2 cracked nylon bushings, and no worn shackles. Of course ours is only a year old with 6000 miles. Do a search on Google and you'll see some bad stuff, some as quick as arrival to dealer. X-Brace? Just because any LCI frame needs all the help it can get. They do have some flat bar welded from the web to flange on the I-beam, which should be OK to prevent the I-beam rolling or flexing too much, but I had to go beyond that since I still don't trust it.

As for the thread, I'm not done. To be continued.........
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