Closing the pass through storage

[Atlee]

Today we finished 2 projects in our new 2017 23RB. As anyone who owns a 23RB knows, the storage under the bed and the pass through storage is just one large area. We didn't like that arrangement.

So we built the frame work and added a panel to separate the two spaces. Next I split the 4x8 bed platform. The larger piece made a screwed down top for the pass through storage. We then connected the smaller piece of the 4x8 and the balance of bed platform to form the lift up top to the under bed storage.

I have found those 100# struts to be extremely difficult to close.

The other project was to put in some protection of the water pipe in the curbside rear storage. That was relatively simple.

[BigJohnD]

Love it Atlee. That turned out very nice. Maybe Jayco will catch on one day. Way better support on the bed this way, plus dividing the inside from outside. We put the "not used very often" stuff on the inside under the bed.

[PonyExpress]

when I did mine I bought the lift kit at CW, its was labeled as standard. they also had light, heavy and another one I don't remember what they labeled it as. Mine was not so hard to close but would not stay down without the mattress on it.

[Atlee]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

Love it Atlee. That turned out very nice. Maybe Jayco will catch on one day. Way better support on the bed this way, plus dividing the inside from outside. We put the "not used very often" stuff on the inside under the bed.

That's what we will put in our under bed storage. Stuff we don't need often.

[Aebelskiver]

That's cool! Thanks for sharing.


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[redsnapper]

What pound (#) pressure lifts would be sufficient to "assist" a short queen bed and underlayment ply rise open? And stay open?

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by redsnapper

What pound (#) pressure lifts would be sufficient to "assist" a short queen bed and underlayment ply rise open? And stay open?

Our short queen is a corner bed, so it's hinged lengthwise, and it came with 100# struts. The originals lasted about four years, and when replaced with new ones the mattress had to be in place for the base to stay down. Consider that your mattress weighs at least 65# to 80#, 100# struts won't be too strong.

[Broken Wing]

our's came already finished just like what you did!

[Atlee]

Jayco slowly changed that over the years. I saw some 2013 models that hinged at the very front, but still had the panel separating the pass through and the under bed storage.

Later they even stopped putting in the divider. It's a shame to have fix that problem.

Originally Posted by Broken Wing

our's came already finished just like what you did!

[BigJohnD]

My biggest issue was the plywood bed frame just wasn't enough for my 225 lbs plus my wife. It came close to failure. I went back with thicker plywood and framing.

[Atlee]

I stayed with the same plywood bed base. I wanted 3/8"
plywood, but the big box stores didn't have that size,
just 1/4" and 1/2".

Even though my weight matches yours, I'm hoping the extra support provided by the new wall for the pass through storage will make due. If not, I'll have to revisit that part of the project.

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

My biggest issue was the plywood bed frame just wasn't enough for my 225 lbs plus my wife. It came close to failure. I went back with thicker plywood and framing.

[BigJohnD]

With the center support you'll probably be fine. My new plywood is 1/2". Never tried the 3/8" with the support.

[Acepylot]

Hi Atlee, REALLY nice job closing in the storage compartment. Can you tell me what the aluminum(?) plates are called? Also, did you use staples or screws? I like how the new wall is flush with existing walls. Did you move the new wall inwards to accommodate the new wall thickness?

Thanks!!

[Marcm157]

I want to do this bed mod but we upgraded to a thick memory foam mattress. Any thoughts on whether moving the hinge to the middle will cause issues opening the storage? Mattress doesn't seem to want to bend very easily...

[BigJohnD]

All depends on the strut placement. Mine turned out good although it was the stock mattress. A few adjustments and it wouldn't be an issue with your set up.

[Atlee]

I have a 10" memory foam mattress on my bed, and we aren't having any problems yet, anyway. At first I thought the 100# hydralyic lifts were going to be too much. Before we put the bed on the changed hinge location, I though it might be too much. However, that is not the case. In fact, if it were any less powerful, we might have problems lifting the mattress.

Originally Posted by Marcm157

I want to do this bed mod but we upgraded to a thick memory foam mattress. Any thoughts on whether moving the hinge to the middle will cause issues opening the storage? Mattress doesn't seem to want to bend very easily...

[Atlee]

To answer some questions.

1) The plates are steel, galvanized IIRC. They are called nail plates and are used by home builders to construct the rafters in the roof and connect pieces of wood in other places in the home construction. And Jayco uses the same plates to build the Magnum Truss Roof System used in most, if not all, Jayco RV's. They have lots of holes punched in the metal plate resulting in a lot of sharp barbed points. These nail plates are driven into the two pieces of wood that you want to join. I used one on both sides of the pieces of wood that I joined together.

2) The frame I made that created the new wall was attached to the existing wall, and the floor using wood screws. I used a 1/4 inch plywood sheet to cover the new added frame. This was also screwed into the new frame.

3) The lumber I used for the frame was slightly larger than the wood used by Jayco for their frame work. The smallest Lowe's had was a nominal 2 x 2, which is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2. So my new frame is slightly thicker than the Jayco framework. But I just attached my new frame flush with the pass through storage wall, screwed it in, and called it a day. So yes, the new wall is slightly inwards, but you really can't tell my piece is larger. You can tell which part is mine because I used the nail plates to connect the pieces of wood. Jayco used staples to do theirs.

Originally Posted by Acepylot

Hi Atlee, REALLY nice job closing in the storage compartment. Can you tell me what the aluminum(?) plates are called? Also, did you use staples or screws? I like how the new wall is flush with existing walls. Did you move the new wall inwards to accommodate the new wall thickness?

Thanks!!

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

All depends on the strut placement. Mine turned out good although it was the stock mattress. A few adjustments and it wouldn't be an issue with your set up.

Originally Posted by Atlee

I have a 10" memory foam mattress on my bed, and we aren't having any problems yet, anyway. At first I thought the 100# hydralyic lifts were going to be too much. Before we put the bed on the changed hinge location, I though it might be too much. However, that is not the case. In fact, if it were any less powerful, we might have problems lifting the mattress.

Thanks Guys - This will definitely be my off season project...

[jlechmanik]

Did you use the factory pneumatic springs to hold it up? And if so, any help as to how you did it? A can barely move the springs by hand and I'm wondering how you installed them. Also I really don't like the front of the bed only supported by the front wall and the new divider. Did you beef yours up?

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[wabirch]

Nice looking, great idea. Adds a bit of security to the access to boot.

Adding a center vertical stud might be a solution for added bed support, like the idea of thicker plywood as well.