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Old 03-28-2017, 12:21 PM   #21
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Sounds good danno.. ....we've got some of those


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Old 03-28-2017, 12:23 PM   #22
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Tom you don't think klassic is ready for a trip?? LOL


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Old 03-28-2017, 02:18 PM   #23
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Update: power cord reel on hold pending delivery of new parts. Brake project wiring and lines won't start until weekend due to delivery of additional wire Fri. Tomorrow will jack the axles and remove and replace rotors, calipers. According to pros, maybe a 6 hour job. I hope.

So many North Point 377RLBH guys following the brake issue I thought I would post a mod my wife came up with. We knew we would never use the love seat in the "office" so we removed it and she had a cabinet maker make cabinets. Here's some pics.
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:02 PM   #24
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Tom you don't think klassic is ready for a trip?? LOL


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I won't make it through the Virginia mountains with out using a truck runoff.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:52 PM   #25
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I won't make it through the Virginia mountains with out using a truck runoff.


You've got a good exhaust brake on that new truck! [emoji3]


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Old 03-28-2017, 08:52 PM   #26
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Update: power cord reel on hold pending delivery of new parts. Brake project wiring and lines won't start until weekend due to delivery of additional wire Fri. Tomorrow will jack the axles and remove and replace rotors, calipers. According to pros, maybe a 6 hour job. I hope.



So many North Point 377RLBH guys following the brake issue I thought I would post a mod my wife came up with. We knew we would never use the love seat in the "office" so we removed it and she had a cabinet maker make cabinets. Here's some pics.


Very nice!


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Old 03-29-2017, 11:39 AM   #27
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Lunch break - and de-greasing. Removed right side wheels, drums, and brake back plate. About 35 minutes. No glitches until I tried to remove the rear seal and bearing from the old drum rotor. I haven't done that since my childhood on a 1950 Ford. Knocked it out with a wood block and hammer. The seal came out in two pieces. . The first parts store had no seals but had a tool to remove the seal from the seal side possibly without damaging it. I bought it for $28, then went to a second auto parts and they had three seals in stock (4th will be in the morning). The seals were $2.25 each. My advice: buy all four seals before you start.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:11 PM   #28
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Excited to see your progress! Thank you for documenting this mod!!


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Old 03-29-2017, 12:19 PM   #29
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Jim..can you verify that these were the brakes you had?
https://store.lci1.com/12x2-lh-elect...sting-brake-7k
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:25 PM   #30
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They look exactly like the ones I just removed. Anyone looking for slightly used drum brakes?
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:29 PM   #31
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Here's the start of my 'bone yard'
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:41 PM   #32
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Finished the installation on the left side - ready to finish the left side tomorrow. Besides the rear seal glitch, I didn't realize how much time is required to totally clean the bearings of the old grease and re-pack them with new grease. I used the packing tool - two cones that screw together and then you pump grease into them. It necessary to have the rollers completely packed with grease and then fill the cavities with grease. Expect to get greasey! Also, it's a good idea to have a few rolls of paper towels - you won't want to use rags because the amount of grease you'll be wiping up is- well, just think of dog poop except without the smell. The actual removal of the old stuff and installation of the new stuff is fast and easy (but the rotors are heavy).
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:09 PM   #33
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Nice progress. Are the disc kits you have Kodiak with e-coat?


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Old 03-29-2017, 03:38 PM   #34
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From etrailer - kit K2HR712E which is a single axle kit 13" Dacromet - Two sets cost: $809 and the Hydrastar Hydraulic actuator HBA16 (1600 psi) cost: 617.95
I'm not clear on what the e-coating is. I've seen it referred to for the calipers and for the rotors. The Dacromet is described as "Dacromet coating provides superior corrosion resistance for freshwater or saltwater use"
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:45 PM   #35
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Thanks Jim

I think the e-coat and the dacromet are intended for boat trailers. I'm on the fence if I'll spend the extra money on the coated rotors. I live in Houston, so no worry about salt on the roads during winter


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Old 03-29-2017, 05:55 PM   #36
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I love it !
I really wish I could take your rig for a pull.
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:14 AM   #37
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Come to Florida klassic, you can take mine......LOL


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Old 03-30-2017, 09:21 AM   #38
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Finished the right side and ready to remove wheels from left side. A few tips: Have plenty of de-greaser - I use diesel fuel from my auxiliary tank in my PU. I cleaned every thing thoroughly - didn't trust the existing grease. You need a torque wrench 1/2 in. drive up to at least 140 ft./lbs. Great link to a PDF on proper torqueing http://www.roadkingtrailers.com/LugN...rsKeystone.pdf Unless you have some major biceps, you'll want a short piece of 2X4 and a very big screw driver or other pry bar to lift the wheels onto the rotor. I won't post pics of the finished rotors on the left side since it'll look exactly like the right side. When everything is mounted I'm starting the wire routing.
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Old 03-31-2017, 12:24 PM   #39
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I was poking around and found the post regarding Klassic's brake problems at least partially attributed to excess grease on the drums. My drums were definitely greased - all four. I would say I wouldn't have a chance at a quick stop but in fact, I never did. I think it may be possible that they pumped in too much wheel bearing grease at the factory.
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Old 03-31-2017, 04:22 PM   #40
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Here's the start of my 'bone yard'
I wish I had a bone yard!
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