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Old 06-03-2015, 09:28 PM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Calgary
Posts: 30
Hot water recirculation on x213

The x213 has the hot water tank a LONG way from the bathroom sink so you wait 15+ sec to get warm water. We do a lot of boondocking so wasting water is an issue. Added a hot water recirculation system. In AUTO Mode just open the hot water tap and if the water is cold it recirculates until it is hot. Got the valve, flow switch and temperature switch etc from ebay and didnt spend more then 25$ for the parts. Positioned the sensors, T fitting and valve right at the line up to the sink, but it also works for outdoor shower and before using inside shower.

The switch on the sink vanity allows you to turn the system OFF (if water heater is off), force water recirculation ON (you have to hold the switch in this position), and put in AUTO so it recirculates if the water in the lines is cold. LED light on the switch tells you if it is recirulating. It works great for last few years- no more cold washes!!!

I can post some of the parts details later.
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:56 AM   #2
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very interested in part numbers. nice design. thanks

2013 23B
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:41 AM   #3
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Wow! Love it!

Definitely post the part #'s.

Our TT's kitchen sink is 30' of plumbing away from the water heater and it takes a sink-load of dishes to get hot water. Like you, we boondock and I will NOT waste water!

Using the RV's water pump, instead of a separate pump (commercial version) is very inspired.

And wiring it in to the pump's own demand switch? Great idea! No power/heat used when no water is being used.

I'm going to have to put the enable switch at the kitchen sink though. My shower, vanity and outdoor shower are only a few feet from the water heater, so this won't benefit them. But it will be a MAJOR IMPROVEMENT for the kitchen sink!

TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck

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Old 06-04-2015, 08:33 AM   #4
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Posts: 1,100
Thanks for posting this idea; I look forward to details (maybe links?) to the switch and controls. We waste a lot of water waiting for it to get hot and would like to change that!
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.

2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2008 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch

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Old 06-04-2015, 10:02 PM   #5
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Calgary
Posts: 30
Got most of the parts off ebay - mostly shipped out of China and takes 2-3weeks to arrive but everything has arrived without an issue. Stuff is cheap enough I ended getting 2 of everthing in case I screwed something up building it. Pictures below are for reference when looking for the parts

Valve - must be "fail closed" type that opens when energized. Search ebay for "12v solonoid valve" and you should find some.

Flow Switch - switch should "close" on flow but all that I saw were this kind . Search ebay for "water flow switch"

Temperature Switch - This needs to be a switch that is "normally closed" and "opens" when the temperature gets hot in 35-40C range. I used ones marked TLRS-9700 with a 40C rating. Search ebay for "bimetal temperature switch"

Switch - this is a SPDT: ON-OFF-MOM type switch which was hard to find at a decent price but DigiKey Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor has them. part is 401-1363-ND

I am currently adding a timing relay to cut-off the circuit if the valve is open more than 20s (as the recirculation does not stop if I forgot to turn on the hot water heater - not that that ever happens). It is optional and adds a bit of electronics to an otherwise simple circuit. But here is what I have on order - again go to ebay and search for "DC 12V delay relay delay Turn on / Turn off switch module with timer" I will use the delay-off functions. They have lots of other cool relays that will work as well. I can't vouch for this bit as I haven't got mine yet.

Other plumbing bits and switch plates you can source from local HW and RV store. The temperature switch I embedded (glued) though a fitting - but probably better to just have a short piece of copper pipe and strap it to the side of the pipe and insulate over it.
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