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Old 07-15-2016, 07:07 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by klassic View Post
Yesterday I was just thinking about doing this with my side connector!
What kind of macerator do you have.
I wish the new 2017 option of the Sani Con turbo was available in '16.
I have the Flo-Jet macerator kit. Works very well!
Flojet Waste Macerator Pump - Portable - Easy Waste Dumping-pplmotorhomes.com
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2014 RAM Laramie 2500 w/6.7L Cummins Diesel and Automated Safety Hitch
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:17 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by nevermind View Post
How many amps is the macerator rated to draw?



Power = Current x Voltage

300w = Current x 12, which is right around 2.5 amps. Most panels run around 14-16v so the current is even lower. With that said, you don't need anything close to 12awg for a solar panel on your roof. If you're sporting a solar array, then add up the wattage and do the calcs.
And, BTW, you need to recheck your math here... 300w @ 12v is more like 25 amps, not 2.5! You would need at least 0 awg for that! Especially with the distance from the roof to the battery compartment.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:04 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor View Post
Wth solar, the concept is to do anything practical to minimize line-loss, hence the 8awg from the roof.
That makes sense...
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:12 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor View Post
And, BTW, you need to recheck your math here... 300w @ 12v is more like 25 amps, not 2.5!
Yikes! No more math before coffee in the AM!!!
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:20 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor View Post
Use an electrical tester to check your 12v on-the-side connector. Mine was always "hot" at 12v, which told me that it's just connected to the battery. I opened the wall panels, and that's exactly how it was wired, but with 12AWG wire! The ROOF solar connector is wired with 8AWG.

Big difference....
I haven't looked at that wire size yet. I do know that the "solar on the side" connector has two wires out the back and they are wire nutted to a ground wire that goes to the frame and another (+) wire that goes into the front wall/overhang to run over to the battery side. It is connected to an auto resetting circuit breaker behind the battery compartment (resulting in it being always hot as you described).

My plan is to remove that wire (Yellow/white in my case) from the auto reset breaker, and connect that to my charge controller. I'll verify gauge and run a different wire in the ceiling of the storage if needed. The whole purpose is to have an easy, outside connection so I don't have to run cables out a storage door when my panels (portable) are deployed for solar harvesting.

I attached 2 pictures. One shows the sticker next to the connector that states the Solar on the Side capacity is 20 amps, not that I am hanging my hat on it, but 20 amps would be their intention of capacity. That would be nearly 300 watts of panes at 12 volt nominal.

The second shows the wiring behind my battery. The Yellow/White (paired in the ring terminal with the orange wire) on the left side, is my wire coming from my solar on the side plug. I still need to figure out where that orange wire goes, or what it powers. I'll pull it off that auto reset breaker and connect to a junction block then to the charge controller.
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20160414_150512_resized.jpg   20160714_172736_1468587477635_resized.jpg  
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:11 AM   #16
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With DC wiring, you can't just look at W=V x A to determine the correct wire size. You need to look at the distance being run, and the line-loss. With solar, bigger is better when it comes to sizing wires!
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2014 RAM Laramie 2500 w/6.7L Cummins Diesel and Automated Safety Hitch
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:59 AM   #17
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Yup, I'm on top of that. What I'm doing now is for portable, so amperage will be low, staying at my 200 watts. But I did decide that I'm going to put new wire going from the solar on the side plug to my junction posts by my controller. Looking at it tatters night, hat factory wiring is pretty thin. Design of these must focus on the line not burning up, rather than proper sizing for current.
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:32 PM   #18
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I replaced the wire today. Factory placed 12 gauge between connector and the battery area. I replaced it with 8 gauge, butt spliced to connector lead wires, and ring terminals to the junction posts near my controller. I used cable clamps to secure it overhead in the pass through compartment. I just left the factory wire in place, but not connected to anything so I can go back to stock if needed (not likely).
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20160716_172547.jpg  
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:58 PM   #19
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Solar on the side plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdash View Post
I haven't looked at that wire size yet. I do know that the "solar on the side" connector has two wires out the back and they are wire nutted to a ground wire that goes to the frame and another (+) wire that goes into the front wall/overhang to run over to the battery side.

So, is this correct? The negative wire from the "solar on the side" plug should be connected to the frame? I just purchased the Go Power 120 Watt portable kit and was going to hook it up via the SAE connection, but I noticed the negative attachment to the trailer frame so I didn't plug it in. Does the negative wire need to connect to the negative battery terminal?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-16-2016, 02:03 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by ArmadaX213 View Post
Does the negative wire need to connect to the negative battery terminal?
No. Ground is ground. As long as the battery has a good chassis ground (and I presume that it does, or nothing else 12v would be working), you are fine. 12v wiring is only one wire (hot), and achieving good common ground at each end.
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2014 RAM Laramie 2500 w/6.7L Cummins Diesel and Automated Safety Hitch
2016 377RLBH Jayco North Point
300W of Suntech Solar w/Rogue MPPT Controller & Xantrex 2000W PSW Inverter
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