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Old 02-06-2017, 09:25 AM   #1
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Water heater drain mod - would this cause problems?

I recently made my own little mod for my x17z to make draining the water heater simpler, since I hate that stupid nylon plug. I know a similar setup has been used by a lot of people. I bought a brass male-to-male adapter, then a braided household sink hose and a faucet. It seems to work well, although I haven't fully tested it since my camper is winterized. However, when I posted about it on Facebook, a couple of people popped up and had concerns about introducing different metals. I guess the concern is corrosion. What do you folks think?

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Old 02-06-2017, 09:38 AM   #2
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You didn't have an Anode rod in your W/H?
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:41 AM   #3
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You didn't have an Anode rod in your W/H?
It's an Atwood, they have an aluminum tank and no anode rod.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:42 AM   #4
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You didn't have an Anode rod in your W/H?
No ... just a nylon plug. It's an aluminum tank.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:45 AM   #5
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Lots of users have made similar mods with good success. There is some risk of corrosion because of dissimilar metals, but most don't have a problem.

I still don't understand what the big deal with that plug is. I've still got the original plug (in the attached pics) that came with my rig over 3 years ago. I carry a couple spares. I've never had a problem installing or removing that plug. See pics, note how I put my thumb above the propane hose, and the rest of my fingers below. I get a good grip on the plug, and it's like the hose isn't even there.

ETA: Ensure tank is cooled and de-pressurized, loosen the plug with the ratchet (15/16" socket), spin the plug out with fingers, drain tank. When installing, start the plug with fingers to ensure proper threading, snug up with the ratchet. Add teflon tape if you want, but I never have and have never had a leak.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:47 AM   #6
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I'm starting year #4 and I have no corrosion problems and I just use a little white plumbers tape on the fitting.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:49 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Lots of users have made similar mods with good success. There is some risk of corrosion because of dissimilar metals, but most don't have a problem.

I still don't understand what the big deal with that plug is. I've still got the original plug (in the attached pics) that came with my rig over 3 years ago. I carry a couple spares. I've never had a problem installing or removing that plug. See pics, note how I put my thumb above the propane hose, and the rest of my fingers below. I get a good grip on the plug, and it's like the hose isn't even there.
Exactly, and you have large hands !
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:56 AM   #8
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I'm starting year #4 and I have no corrosion problems and I just use a little white plumbers tape on the fitting.
So, you have a similar setup as the one I made? I also used plumber's tape on mine, to avoid leakage. I won't know how well it works until I can de-winterize. Like I said, the male-to-male fitting is brass, and the interior of the sink hose should be lined with plastic of some kind, so I didn't see a problem until a couple of people popped up with some convincing arguments against it. I also did a little research of my own, and found a couple of sites warning against it. I really don't want to have to replace my water heater, obviously.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Lots of users have made similar mods with good success. There is some risk of corrosion because of dissimilar metals, but most don't have a problem.

I still don't understand what the big deal with that plug is. I've still got the original plug (in the attached pics) that came with my rig over 3 years ago. I carry a couple spares. I've never had a problem installing or removing that plug. See pics, note how I put my thumb above the propane hose, and the rest of my fingers below. I get a good grip on the plug, and it's like the hose isn't even there.

ETA: Ensure tank is cooled and de-pressurized, loosen the plug with the ratchet (15/16" socket), spin the plug out with fingers, drain tank. When installing, start the plug with fingers to ensure proper threading, snug up with the ratchet. Add teflon tape if you want, but I never have and have never had a leak.
I want to be able to drain my tank at the end of every outing, mainly to avoid hauling around 48 pounds of unnecessary weight. Having a faucet rather than dealing with a plug will make that a lot easier. When you have an x17z, you start to understand that every pound of CCC counts!
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:59 AM   #10
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snip...
I still don't understand what the big deal with that plug is. I've still got the original plug (in the attached pics) that came with my rig over 3 years ago. I carry a couple spares. I've never had a problem installing or removing that plug. See pics, note how I put my thumb above the propane hose, and the rest of my fingers below. I get a good grip on the plug, and it's like the hose isn't even there.
What he said... I do the same thing Camper_bob does. No problem.

One other tip that works for me:
With plug in position to install, rotate it 'backwards'; like you would to remove it. Stop when you'll feel a 'clunk' as the threads pass one another. Then it's a fraction of a turn clockwise for the plug to engage the tank threads.
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:04 AM   #11
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I want to be able to drain my tank at the end of every outing, mainly to avoid hauling around 48 pounds of unnecessary weight. Having a faucet rather than dealing with a plug will make that a lot easier. When you have an x17z, you start to understand that every pound of CCC counts!
I totally understand that. I empty my tank every time I store the rig (along with the rest of the water). It's just never been difficult enough a process for me to seek out a solution.

Like I said before, your mod should work just fine; I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:08 AM   #12
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Like I said before, your mod should work just fine; I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks. I know there are some overly-cautious people out there who will warn against making any modifications for this reason or another, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something stupid here that would end up costing me a lot of money.
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:47 AM   #13
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I might think differently if I was a full timer, but I can't see corrosion being a problem for the way it sounds like you are using the tank. If the usage is only for a handful of weeks and weekends each year, it would probably be a decade or more before corrosion became noticeable. It might be a lot quicker if you are a full-timer and the tank is always on like in your sticks and bricks.
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:50 AM   #14
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I might think differently if I was a full timer, but I can't see corrosion being a problem for the way it sounds like you are using the tank. If the usage is only for a handful of weeks and weekends each year, it would probably be a decade or more before corrosion became noticeable. It might be a lot quicker if you are a full-timer and the tank is always on like in your sticks and bricks.
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Old 02-06-2017, 12:06 PM   #15
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I might think differently if I was a full timer, but I can't see corrosion being a problem for the way it sounds like you are using the tank. If the usage is only for a handful of weeks and weekends each year, it would probably be a decade or more before corrosion became noticeable. It might be a lot quicker if you are a full-timer and the tank is always on like in your sticks and bricks.
Makes sense. Plus, if the tank is not only off, but also drained, I would think that would also reduce the chance of corrosion.
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Old 02-06-2017, 12:10 PM   #16
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I looked at your setup and I had to take a double take as it looks like my setup, until I realized you used a 90 degree bend on your valve, and I used a straight through valve.

It works great, the tank does drain a little slower than pulling the plug.

I spoke with the metallurgist at work (now retired). He stated in this application there was no issue with dissimilar metals reacting. I have looked at it a few times and have not noticed any issues. I to used plumbers tape on the threads.
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:17 PM   #17
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Do they not make a plastic Male/Male in that size? That would completely eliminate the issue.

Not that I think there is an issue. This type cross metal corrosion usually takes a LONG time and would only be an issue if it were in a home where 30 years later you got a small leak or couldn't unscrew the connection because it had bonded together.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:27 AM   #18
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Do they not make a plastic Male/Male in that size? That would completely eliminate the issue.

Not that I think there is an issue. This type cross metal corrosion usually takes a LONG time and would only be an issue if it were in a home where 30 years later you got a small leak or couldn't unscrew the connection because it had bonded together.
That's a good idea. Next chance I get, I'm going to run down to the hardware store where I got all of the parts for this, and see if they have a plastic version of the brass male-to-male that I originally bought.
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:28 PM   #19
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As a somebody that was a plumber for 17 years the only real problem with the brass into the aluminum , especially with teflon tape is easily over tightening and splitting the aluminum. I would recommend a plastic nipple or use pipe dope.
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Old 02-07-2017, 10:36 PM   #20
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This mod is now on my to-do list. Last fall I forgot to relieve the pressure on the tank as I was winterizing, and as I was loosening the cap, the geyser of water blasted the cap out of my hand, never to be seen again. Good thing the water was only warm and not at full temperature. Instead of being wet and embarrassed, I'd be scalded and screaming.
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