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Old 04-24-2017, 05:44 PM   #1
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Invertor for fridge

I dont want to run LP while driving, but it's there any way to connect 12/120 invertor that will run from car connector to supply electricity for fridge? Is there any guides/tips to do that?

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Old 04-24-2017, 05:56 PM   #2
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Why not run it on LP ?
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:56 PM   #3
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Why not run on LP ? Most folks do it and it's not an issue.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:00 PM   #4
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Why not run it on LP ?
And the fridge uses very little propane. It would take a long time to empty an LP tank.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:13 PM   #5
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I can't imagine the connection from your TV supplying much amperage; usually they're just #18 wires. The propane works great--why don't you want to use it?
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:15 PM   #6
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And the fridge uses very little propane. It would take a long time to empty an LP tank.
Well, if lots of folks do it, it does not mean it's safe. Plus I often take ferry, where it's illigal to have an open Propane tank.

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Old 04-24-2017, 06:26 PM   #7
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Well, if lots of folks do it, it does not mean it's safe. Plus I often take ferry, where it's illigal to have an open Propane tank.

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So turn it off while on the ferry... I doubt they will allow you to leave your truck running while your onboard. It will take a lot of battery power to convert 12 volt to 120 volts at the correct amperage. I bet 90% of RVs are running propane and have been for decades....I have never heard of an issue due to a frig being run on propane. If it were a true safety issue they would have some sort of interlock to prevent it from happening.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:32 PM   #8
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You will need 2 big 12v batteries or 2 6v.
Most likely a 1000w inverter.
Doubt your TV power will keep up.

I too think it's a bad idea
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:45 PM   #9
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With 2 batteries you should be ok for for a few hours on an inverter My residential fridge can run for 6 hours.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:47 PM   #10
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With 2 batteries you should be ok for for a few hours on an inverter My residential fridge can run for 6 hours.
Your residential fridge doesn't take as much power as an RV fridge on 120.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:57 PM   #11
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Your residential fridge doesn't take as much power as an RV fridge on 120.
Are you saying that 3 way fridges are much more efficient than 2 way fridges? In indictment it says 65W, not sure if it is average or max, I doubt any small fridge would pull in 1000W, that would be like my AC for the whole RV...
I'm not looking into running it off of TV plug,lining for some instructions how to wire it within power distribution panel.

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Old 04-24-2017, 07:58 PM   #12
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I run my fridge off the inverter in our TT while traveling, but it is supplied mostly by the SOLAR on the roof of the TT and some from the TV.

Running your fridge off an inverter powered by only your battery/TV will not work. The TV will not provide enough current (due to the small charging wire) to keep your fridge running and your TT battery charged.

You would also need to disconnect your TT's battery charge controller while traveling.

If you pull into a gas station and turn off your engine... the battery will discharge rapidly.

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Old 04-24-2017, 08:10 PM   #13
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Are you saying that 3 way fridges are much more efficient than 2 way fridges? In indictment it says 65W, not sure if it is average or max, I doubt any small fridge would pull in 1000W, that would be like my AC for the whole RV...
I'm not looking into running it off of TV plug,lining for some instructions how to wire it within power distribution panel.

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RV fridges are typically pulling 5-10a AC
You do the math.
3 way fridges stink. That's why you don't see many anymore.
And "any small fridge" isn't a absorption type fridge.

Appliance or Electronic Equipment Estimated Amps
Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 5-6 Amps
Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps
Compact Disc Player 1 Amp
Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps
Converter 1-8 Amps
Crock Pot 1-2 Amps
Curling Iron <1 Amp
Drill 2-6 Amps
Electric Blanket 0.5-1.5 Amps
Electric Fan 1 Amp
Electric Water Heater 9-13 Amps
Electric Skillet 6-12 Amps
Hair Dryer 5-12 Amps
Iron 5-10 Amps
Light (60 watt % 120V) <1 Amp
Microwave 8-13 Amps
Microwave (Convection Oven) 13 Amps
Refrigerator in AC mode 5-8 Amps
Space Heater 8-13 Amps
Television 1.5-4 Amps
Toaster 7-10 Amps
Vacuum (handheld) 2-6 Amps
VCR 1-2 Amps
Washer/Dryer 14-16Amps
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:26 PM   #14
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I have never checked how much power my frig consumes when running on electric. I'm sure it is doable. How long of a trip(s) do you normally take? RV frigs hold their temperature for a long time. I have been told you can expect 6 hours before any significant temperature increase will occur, to get you out of the safe zone.

I too, commonly run with my frig on propane if we are going to be driving for more than an hour.

The propane system is safe, the propane tanks now have a auto shutoff device inside not allowing for accidentally discharge of free flow, in case of an accident.

Edit;
Can you install the right size inverter in you TV? Then install a outlet socket at the bumper, simular tothe 7 pin. Then install a plug socket on the tongue, wire a circuit from the tongue to the access panel behind the frig. When you want to power the frig, connect a short power cord across the hitch, and switch the power cord from the tt outlet to the inverter outlet.

I just saw something like this on a fancy volvo RV semi conversation
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:45 AM   #15
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According to the label in my 4.5 cubic foot fridge in my camper, it draws 2 amps, or 240 watts at 120VAC. It has no option for running on 12VDC however it does draw 4 watts at 12VDC for the control box. I suspect your fridge is similar. If it were running off of an inverter it would have to use 20 amps @ 12VDC plus whatever is lost in the conversion process from 12VDC to 120VAC which I hear can be considerable. (There has to be a reason for those cooling fins on the inverters!)

To put this into perspective, my garage beer fridge, which is about three times larger, draws a maximum of 456 watts. I would assume this maximum would include the lights and the ice maker when it is cycling and running its heater to release the ice.

Gas absorption refrigerators are inefficient; that's probably why you don't seen them in residential use. Having said that, many years ago my friend had a refrigerator in his basement that ran off of natural gas. I've never seen one since.

Perhaps you could just shut off your propane while on the ferry? As others have stated, your food will be safe for several hours.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:43 AM   #16
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According to the label in my 4.5 cubic foot fridge in my camper, it draws 2 amps, or 240 watts at 120VAC. It has no option for running on 12VDC however it does draw 4 watts at 12VDC for the control box. I suspect your fridge is similar. If it were running off of an inverter it would have to use 20 amps @ 12VDC plus whatever is lost in the conversion process from 12VDC to 120VAC which I hear can be considerable. (There has to be a reason for those cooling fins on the inverters!)

To put this into perspective, my garage beer fridge, which is about three times larger, draws a maximum of 456 watts. I would assume this maximum would include the lights and the ice maker when it is cycling and running its heater to release the ice.

Gas absorption refrigerators are inefficient; that's probably why you don't seen them in residential use. Having said that, many years ago my friend had a refrigerator in his basement that ran off of natural gas. I've never seen one since.

Perhaps you could just shut off your propane while on the ferry? As others have stated, your food will be safe for several hours.
I'll need to educate myself on how exactly my fridge works on electricity, is definitely not compressor, but it does not work on evaporation either, like in Propane mode, I thought it uses solid state Peltier thermocouple, which is about 1/3 to 1/4 efficiency of compressor.
So the question is, can I run 20 amp through trailer plug to run inverter. The car can definitely deliver it...

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Old 04-25-2017, 09:46 AM   #17
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I'll need to educate myself on how exactly my fridge works on electricity, is definitely not compressor, but it does not work on evaporation either, like in Propane mode, I thought it uses solid state Peltier thermocouple, which is about 1/3 to 1/4 efficiency of compressor.
So the question is, can I run 20 amp through trailer plug to run inverter. The car can definitely deliver it...

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Not through your factory wiring. 20 amps would melt that thin wire. It's barely the diameter of a tooth pick.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:57 AM   #18
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Not through your factory wiring. 20 amps would melt that thin wire. It's barely the diameter of a tooth pick.
According to the specs 12v line in RV 7 blade connector is 12AWG, which is rated up to 20AMPs

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Old 04-25-2017, 09:58 AM   #19
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According to the specs 12v line in RV 7 blade connector is 12AWG, which is rated up to 20AMPs

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Old 04-25-2017, 10:09 AM   #20
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Maybe confirm the size of the fuses that run your trailer harness, and of course any fuses in side the camper that are going to be expected to handle 20 amps, your weak link might not be the wire after all, but It still sounds high to me - happy to be corrected.

If you plan on pushing 20 amps through a wire that is rated up to 20 amps, your fusing supports it and your inverter losses are acceptable at the other end it sounds like it could work. Maybe also confirm that the inverter you would get isn't going to damage your fridge if / when it loses power because you shut off the truck. I know with my generator for example, you have to remove the load from the generator before powering it down so you don't end up damaging the items that are plugged into it. Just something else to think about, don't even know honestly if that's an issue.

Way more effort than it's worth if you ask me, but you didn't so good luck with the project.
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