1 solution for a Thetford Style II sticky pedal

[RVhiker]

We have a 2011 Jayco that has a Thetford Style II Toilet. There have been several threads on this forum (and others) about problems with that toilet, including the flush ball not closing all the way allowing water to leak from the bowl into the black tank, sometimes not shutting off water flow, and sometimes leaking on the floor.

About two years ago, I replaced the water valve, blade seal, and vacuum breaker. The toilet worked flawlessly for about one year, and then the flush ball began to stick partly open again and drops of water would leak out of the valve when the toilet was flushed. I found the particular cause of this problem on my toilet was easily fixed. When the pedal is pressed down, the rear of the pedal rises and exposes the water valve area. The water valve has an "O" ring around the moving valve cylinder; this "O" ring functions sort of like packing around the valve stem in a regular faucet, and I think that "O" ring was sticking. I sprayed some 100 pct silicone spray into the valve and that has fixed the problem (at least for now) - the pedal now closes with vigor.

There can be other causes for a sticky pedal, and if the sticky "O" ring isn't the cause for the issue, obviously this fix won't work.

[DanNJanice]

Thanks for posting. Since de-winterizing my pedal has been a little slow to return to closed position. I will look into this fix.

[norty1]

We had the same model and year. Replaced it last year with a Dometic and love it.


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[RVhiker]

I looked into replacing mine with a Dometic (a 310, as I recall); it has a foot flush and a ceramic bowl, similar to our Style II. But the offset is 10" for the Dometic and 9.5 inches for the Style II - which means I'd have to move the floor flange and pipe somewhat and I just didn't want to do that.

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Thanks for posting. Since de-winterizing my pedal has been a little slow to return to closed position. I will look into this fix.

Mine was much worse after de-winterizing, too. Maybe rv antifreeze does something to damage the "O" ring, maybe strip it of lubrication?

[Isaacs]

Originally Posted by RVhiker

Mine was much worse after de-winterizing, too. Maybe rv antifreeze does something to damage the "O" ring, maybe strip it of lubrication?

The ethanol in cheap RV antifreeze will strip off all lubrication; do not use it! Use non-recycled (virgin) propylene glycol antifreeze. Walmart sells it made by Prestone--good stuff!

There are manufacturers out there that sell a mix of the two kinds, I'd stay away from that too. Ethanol is bad for your gasoline and bad for your antifreeze.

You can always try spraying some silicone (don't use WD-40) directly into your toilet to coat the blade valve and undo the damage.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by RVhiker

I looked into replacing mine with a Dometic (a 310, as I recall); it has a foot flush and a ceramic bowl, similar to our Style II. But the offset is 10" for the Dometic and 9.5 inches for the Style II - which means I'd have to move the floor flange and pipe somewhat and I just didn't want to do that.

Mine is identical. Easy and enough flex to move the flange 1/2 inch w/o any cutting of pipe or floor.


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[RVhiker]

Thanks, norty1; good to know for the future.

[edatlanta]

Originally Posted by norty1

We had the same model and year. Replaced it last year with a Dometic and love it.


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I went through 3 of this model while still under warranty. The last replacement has been working fine for several years now, but I made up my mind when it quits I will be looking at a Dometic. Any problem and it is gone. I'm not changing valves or trying to figure out how to get that pedal back on after removal.

I think this model had some serious issues around the time my trailer was built plus/minus some months/years.

[norty1]

Instead of re-piping my supply line, I would just get a flex hose, about 1 ft., to make the connection between the shut off supply valve and the new toilet.