Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorenzo313
I just bought the camper and when I plugged it in at my house to make sure all the lights worked I kneeled down to mess with the leveling jacks underneath and my hand actually got a electric shock from the concrete I had my hand on.
|
Was it a static (quick) shock, or continuous shock? On the trailer side, were you touching a frame component, or the trailer skin? Static shocks can be lessened by some of the simple grounding tricks above; a continuous shock is a sign of a bigger problem.
If it was a continuous shock, you probably have a wiring fault somewhere inside. This is not unusual on an older unit, mice and age can make a mess of wiring, and it is likely in a 25 year old unit at least one thing is broken, chewed through or corroded.
First, is the outlet you are plugging into properly grounded? Use an electrical plug tester to be certain.
Assuming this is only happening with 110 plugged in? I would then start from the plug and test continuity through to the power converter (generally located behind the fuse/breaker panel) with a multi-tester (trailer should not be plugged in). Inspect connections to the breaker panel for the 110 V wiring. Trip the main breaker and see if the problem goes away. Then bring individual circuits online, testing each one to see if you have a short on a branch circuit. If you can isolate to one circuit you can check just that one to find if a hot wire is shorting to ground. (BTW - you can use your mutimeter to see if the TT is going hot - you don't need to keep touching ground yourself - just sayin') If the wiring is okay, it is possible that your converter is cooked - remember it has probably had 25 years of exposure to lousy campground electrical service. You can look up your model online and see if there is any troubleshooting you can do on that unit, but considering the age you might just want to replace it anyway.
If you get a shock even when not on shore power, that could be a bad neutral connection on the battery (corrosion on the - post) or where the neutral wire attaches to the frame. Check to make sure you have a good connection there as well.
Isolating electrical faults can be a lengthy process. There are hundreds of feet of wiring in a modern trailer, and a fault could be anywhere along there.
Work carefully. I have a lot of respect for electrical power; I work primarily with DC electronics, but even that is always ready to teach you a lesson. If you are not comfortable with electrical, hire an electrician to help you isolate the fault.
Linear Mode
