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Old 09-28-2016, 07:38 PM   #21
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Plus, I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Dustdevil View Post
Oh, it wasn't me using the dryer outlet. I was told, though, that each AC unit operates from a different 115 volt line in a 50 amp RV circuit.
That is correct. If your RV has a 50 amp service you will have two 120 volt 50 amp lines coming into your RV. If you have two AC's then each 120 volt leg would power one of them. Hence, if you use a 20 amp adapter to plug into a standard outlet, you would only have power going to one leg, and hence only one AC would operate. You also would have limited power in the balance of your rig. Your total power available on a 50 amp standard service is 100 amps at 120 volts, or 12,000 watts of power. When using a 20 amp plug, you would only have 2400 watts of power available. An AC would use much of that, chances are a MW, would not operate properly, could not use a toaster or any other heat producing appliance.

For clarification, a 30 amp RV standard service, has 1 120 volt 30 amp line, with 3600 available watts of power. You can see why it's important to use the proper receptacle and power your rig is rated for. Anything less than that would limit your the operations of your rig.. A dog bone is only a short term "fix" to a problem, not a good long term choice.

Where many have gotten into problems, with one gentleman on here connecting his 30 amp service to a 30 amp 240 welding outlet. He rewired the plug so it would "work" but, mistakenly connected his 120 volt rig to 240 volts of power. He blew out many appliances in his rig, I don't remember the exact number.

Your 50 amp service would have two 120 volt 50 amp lines, one neutral and one ground, hence 4 prongs on your plug. A 30 amp service would have 1 120 volt 30 amp line, 1 neutral line, and one ground line, hence 3 prong.. and not the same prong configuration as a dryer plug, which would have again 4 prongs.

Hope that didn't confuse the situation anymore than it was. Good Luck.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:05 PM   #23
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That was very nearly what I was understanding about the 50 amp setup. Only the available current was a surprise. As I mentioned, I don't run either of my AC units on the 15 or 20 amp lines wired to my house panel. The system voltage under such circumstances drops to about 104 or less when the AC compressor starts, and that would likely overheat the motor. So, I just don't do it. The one circuit that is hot, however, does also operate the battery charging system. So, it's worth plugging in to the 15 or 20 amp circuits a few days between trips.

I'm puzzled as to why the OPs 2nd AC unit does not work on the generator either. Except that possibly a circuit breaker or fuse was tripped somewhere, and that AC unit just doesn't get any power either way.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:41 PM   #24
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http://www.janeandjohn.org/docs/50am...stallation.pdf
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:42 AM   #25
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When you use a dogbone adapter on a 50a rig, the adapters, 50 to 30 and 30 to 15 send the input voltage and current to BOTH 50a feeds in the camper. That is how the adapter is wired.

Anything in the 50a wired rig will have access to the 15a feed but it will trip the 15a service if overloaded. I would not even attempt to use anything in my rig when configured this way except a few lights.

It should allow the converter to keep the batteries charged.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:49 PM   #26
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Does your power cable happen to have the LED indicators on it?
If so this would tell you if both legs are being fed.
I use a 50-30 dogbone at home to plug in (to what is really a 40 amp circuit) and both legs of my 50 are powered.
I can run one A/C or the other (actually I have run both at the same time for a few seconds).

Check your breakers and make sure both your 20 amps (one for each A/C) are on and working. Perhaps pop them off and on to insure they are working well.
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
When you use a dogbone adapter on a 50a rig, the adapters, 50 to 30 and 30 to 15 send the input voltage and current to BOTH 50a feeds in the camper. That is how the adapter is wired.

Anything in the 50a wired rig will have access to the 15a feed but it will trip the 15a service if overloaded. I would not even attempt to use anything in my rig when configured this way except a few lights.

It should allow the converter to keep the batteries charged.
OK, this is good to know. This helps understand what they are doing with the wiring. So, everything CAN get power, but not everything SHOULD be turned on. I typically only allow the battery charge circuit to operate, along with a few lights and maybe the ceiling fan. 15 amps doesn't handle much.

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Originally Posted by Rustysocket View Post
This is good to see also. Essentially, it's two 120 ac circuits, 180 degrees out of phase, which would act like 240 single phase, except that there is both a neutral and a ground, so it's 4-pin and intended to be used as two 120 ac circuits.

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Originally Posted by Loosenuts View Post
Does your power cable happen to have the LED indicators on it?
If so this would tell you if both legs are being fed.
I use a 50-30 dogbone at home to plug in (to what is really a 40 amp circuit) and both legs of my 50 are powered.
I can run one A/C or the other (actually I have run both at the same time for a few seconds).

Check your breakers and make sure both your 20 amps (one for each A/C) are on and working. Perhaps pop them off and on to insure they are working well.
This should start the OP with a procedure to start eliminating the obvious issues. If one AC works and the other doesn't, it's likely a fuse or circuit breaker somewhere, loose wiring, or possibly even a faulty AC unit or thermostat.
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:27 PM   #28
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I posted that wiring link just to illustrate that there is a difference between how a 240v circuit is wired for a dryer vs a 2 pole 110v 50amp circuit for RV use. I have found that even seasoned journeymen electricians are not always familiar with how a RV circuit is wired especially when people begin by describing it as looking like a dryer plug.

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Old 10-03-2016, 05:43 PM   #29
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Add a Hard Start Capacitor, I run mine on a 20 amp circuit with a 30' run
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:02 PM   #30
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On my rig with its 1 AC unit I could not get it to run on anything except RV power (30 amp), drove me nuts for years.

Discovery: Found out the electrical company I paid BIG BUCKS to run from my shop out to my barn. Yes they charged me for 30 amps pulled from my 100 amp box but it seems they forgot the 30 amp wire and figured I would never know the diff. They were right and they only gave me 20 amps.

That said:

A single AC Coleman11k BUT never eats all 20 amp according to specs so I being an engineer (NOT a electrical engineer) I agonized over this...for YEARS. I also think I bought every Hard Start setup out there and not a single one worked!

Finally I was able to contact and speak with engineering at the AC manuf and I got an answer: 'as the AC unit ages the amps to start the compressor gradually go up and up due to wear and tear on the unit, you are past the point that Hard Start works for you, either wait for fail or replace compressor now and should solve your problem.

I decided to wait for fail, but I still had the issue of no AC unless I was on a 30 amp circuit.

Then one sleepless night (engineers have LOTS of those) at about 3 am "I GOT IT". I headed to the barn and disconnected everything and prepared to run off battery power. With nothing but a flashlight in hand I turn on the fan, then turned to AC...drum roll AC came one without hesitation and blew Ice Cold.

Phase II: Battery's started it (they should with dual Odyssey Grp 31's hooked up.! I then fired up my 2.5KW genset which had never started the AC. AC on running off battery power, then turn off battery power with genset only running....YEP still running, still blowing cold.

Phase III: Plug in barn power 20 amp and turn off genset. It runs and blows cold. So it works and that is how I did it.


BUT wait the OP has a near new rig, surely the compressor is an ez start. Should be, but my $12,000 all new Trane HVAC system and a 'frozen compressor' coming off the truck! Crap happens.

That rig was an '08 model and the AC is still chugging along putting out ice cold air here in S Tx and in Phoenix AZ in the summer time, just a bit hard to start, but once you get it going off the battery power or a 30 am circuit its great.
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