Adding an electrical outlet

[bucko]

I have a 2015 Jayco Jay Feather SLX16XRB, and would like to add an electrical outlet in the wall by the table area. The wife and I usually use the table more for a counter for the toaster, or coffee maker. I've been using an extension cord and plugging that into the outlet by the back bunk area, but wondered why an outlet was not placed by the table? is it because there is not enough space in the inner wall, meaning an outlet box would not fit between the inner wall and the outer campers "skin"?

Smaking the wire from the bunk outlet to the table wall could be done (I'm guessing) with a snake, but if the walls are too thin, then I'll just stick with the extension cord I guess.

[Tunce the traveler]

I don't think you really need to mount the outlet on or in the back wall. If it were mine I would mount the outlet below the seat where your leg would be. It would be an easy location to get at and it could be recessed so you only show the cover plate just like you have in your house.

[Jagiven]

I am not familiar with your particular TT. But in general the walls are very thin, I have not measured, but I would guess only an 1” thick. You would have to use a shallow box, short stubs of wire and typical outlet. It would be a lot of work to route the wire up the fragile wall then get it all assembled. I would agree, if there is room down by the base of the table area, where the utilities run though, you would have a lot more room to work with.

[John LLRV]

Just don't advertise it to the dealer that you have done the modification.. This is from the tow-able warranty paperwork

By way of example only, this limited warranty does not cover any of the following: defects in materials, components or parts of the RV not attributable to Jayco; items that are added or changed after the RV leaves the possession of Jayco;"

although.. it does not specifically state that a modification will void the warranty, any items the the repair shop deems damaged due to the modification will not be covered (say, if the converter blows up, kills the AC/Fridge/Microwave and the repair shop is "over zealous" they can say that due to your mod, the replacement/repair is not covered).

Just be careful.

[bucko]

Thanks for the responses! The seat box idea is indeed a better solution for ease of installing.

My next question: can I simply wire this new electrical box from an existing outlet ("jump" it off of an existing outlet), or does it need it's own connection to the main power distribution box (where the fuses/breaker is)?

[Tunce the traveler]

Your fuse panel box might have( mine does) an extra slot or two for additional circuits to be run. I would not come off the AC circuit . If you needed a slightly larger fuse panel for your 30amp service Lowes or Home Depot should have one. You might be able to come off the GFCI in the bathroom outlet.

[RoyBraddy]

don't expect to tap into any of the existing ROMEX wiring. I never found any slack in my wiring anywhere. They also use the press on back type 120VAC receptacles which pinches the wiring. One those wires get pinched they are very easy to break into when moving around the romex. You won't find screw terminals type receptacles anywhere in the trailers.

I have installed several additional house type receptacles in my trailers. Choing the inside of a cabinet or storage area is what I used.

I mounted one of those BLUE Electrical receptable boxes first from LOWES and then mounted a regular 120VAC PUG inside the blue box... Then I would run some ROMEX around the inside of the cabinets to the 120VAC Power Distribution panel. Lowes will have all you need.



Once you cut the hole in the cabinet for these boxes just slip into the hole and tighten down with the screw tabs shown here. Be sure you hook up all three wires to meet code and be safe. Black-White-Green

Roy Ken

[Tunce the traveler]

Originally Posted by roybraddy

don't expect to tap into any of the existing romex wiring. I never found any slack in my wiring anywhere. They also use the press on back type 120vac receptacles which pinches the wiring. One those wires get pinched they are very easy to break into when moving around the romex. You won't find screw terminals type receptacles anywhere in the trailers.

I have installed several additional house type receptacles in my trailers. Choing the inside of a cabinet or storage area is what i used.

I mounted one of those blue electrical receptable boxes first from lowes and then mounted a regular 120vac pug inside the blue box... Then i would run some romex around the inside of the cabinets to the 120vac power distribution panel. Lowes will have all you need.



once you cut the hole in the cabinet for these boxes just slip into the hole and tighten down with the screw tabs shown here. Be sure you hook up all three wires to meet code and be safe. Black-white-green

roy ken

bingo!!!

[bucko]

^^ I've used these types of electrical boxes as well, and plan to use the same when I install it in the seat box by the table. My concern now is how I will get the ROMEX wiring you mention from this location to the power distribution panel. It's located towards the front bonk (my camber is a hybrid). So, getting to it would require me running the wire along the right wall (cabinet, then shower/bathroom). This may not be a possibility. Here's a pic of my layout:



So, the outlet I want to add would be to the left or right of the "dinette" table (planned to place it at the right side foot well area, as there is an existing outlet along the wall of the "front bed" lower wall I was going to tap into). If I would be required to run it to the power distribution panel, thats located at the floor area of the "rear bed" area.

I've found "Wirecon" type outlets, an easy self contained way to install the electrical outlet itself, but now my problem seems to be if I can "tap" off an existing outlet easily without the use of a junction box.
Is it assumed that all existing 120 VAC outlets are protected off of the one breaker I have?

[norty1]

I have put a good many in RV's in years past. I just extend it from the nearest receptacle.
I even put a Ac wall lamp in by fishing the Romeo up the wall thru the foam insulation.

[Tunce the traveler]

Originally Posted by bucko

^^ I've used these types of electrical boxes as well, and plan to use the same when I install it in the seat box by the table. My concern now is how I will get the ROMEX wiring you mention from this location to the power distribution panel. It's located towards the front bonk (my camber is a hybrid). So, getting to it would require me running the wire along the right wall (cabinet, then shower/bathroom). This may not be a possibility. Here's a pic of my layout:



So, the outlet I want to add would be to the left or right of the "dinette" table (planned to place it at the right side foot well area, as there is an existing outlet along the wall of the "front bed" lower wall I was going to tap into). If I would be required to run it to the power distribution panel, thats located at the floor area of the "rear bed" area.

I've found "Wirecon" type outlets, an easy self contained way to install the electrical outlet itself, but now my problem seems to be if I can "tap" off an existing outlet easily without the use of a junction box.
Is it assumed that all existing 120 VAC outlets are protected off of the one breaker I have?

Yes, running to the existing outlet is doable as there should be a place to snap in another ROMEX wire. I did the same thing over 8,000 miles ago and it's still snug.

[norty1]

One thing I found, if a receptacle is at the end and there is no double wire provisions, you may have to use a conventional residential outlet. I tried to reuse one and it usually is no good after the wires are removed.

[Tunce the traveler]

If you choose to go on the left hand side you should be able to look behind the Furnace and see the wires for the AC-frig & your front outlet going back to your power box. Look at the rear of the bathroom cabinet, you might just see those wires. If not then there under the cabinet bottom shelf and that's about 3 1/2" off the floor. If you don't want to pull that up just run it to the rear of the cabinet. Your shower pan should have an access panel to get into and there should be an opening from left side of the shower pan to the rear wall space. There should also be plumbing pipes in there as well. In order to set the shower pan they need an opening to connect the drain.
Listen what Norty1 said, yours could be the same

[Tunce the traveler]

View from under my shower pan.
My wires (and yours) are bundled together in that black ribbed tube that you see in the center/rear of the pic. That wall that you see is the rear wall just like yours, it's at the rear of your shower pan. Those wires are going to the 30 AMP box just like you have.
Notice the artistic cut in the linoleum done by the Jayco craftsmen !!! What a great place for water to enter the subfloor. 1 small leak from that elbow and that floor is toast. That fitting is just hand tight so check it every now and then because I bet your floor looks just like mine. Look in every nook and crannie and if you can't see it put your phone back in there and snap a pic. And why did they make that cut you ask? Well there wasn't enough room under there for the elbow so they cut the floor out so the pipe would fit. That's right " they cut the floor out" and if you look from under neath the trailer you can look up and see that pipe.
Thank you Jayco you did a great job.

[gijoecam]

From the power distribution center, drill a hole through the floor. In the corner of the under seat bench, drill another hole. Crawl under the camper with a length of wire, some split loom and some single hole straps and connect the dots. Easy-peasy!

[bucko]

Originally Posted by gijoecam

From the power distribution center, drill a hole through the floor. In the corner of the under seat bench, drill another hole. Crawl under the camper with a length of wire, some split loom and some single hole straps and connect the dots. Easy-peasy!

I will try to avoid this, as I'd prefer not to drill holes in my floor to run wires; this would add to potential moisture leaks (even if sealed good) or insects.

[gijoecam]

You likely have several holes in the floor already... at the very least, for the water line from the tank to the pump. It wouldn't be my first choice either for the same reasons, but it is perfectly do-able...

[Gazoo]

You know what sucks? Even after 6 years, reading every word of a post from someone who wanted help, got help in return, and then POOF! The post ends and we don’t get to hear how it turned out. Not even a pic.

[Tunce the traveler]

Originally Posted by Gazoo

You know what sucks? Even after 6 years, reading every word of a post from someone who wanted help, got help in return, and then POOF! The post ends and we don’t get to hear how it turned out. Not even a pic.

After you’ve been here a while you’ll see that’s not unusual

[Duke4857]

This may be a different approach. Instead of putting in a box use the receptacles that are used in our manufactured home. A self contained receptacle. Our 2016 Jayco 24RKS has these types of receptacles in it also. You might get your new plug into a shallower area.

https://www.mobilehomedepotmi.com/el...---recept.html


If you are thinking of putting in USB ports in the receptacle than you will have to use a box and the correct receptacle. That is the one of the reasons I would use a box type receptacle.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-8A-Ultr...saAqaxEALw_wcB

Have fun and be safe with your installation.