Battery Disconnect Switch

[Archie]

Turned battery disconnect switch to off and began to remove battery--there still appears to be a draw--Sparking-- Tried turning switch to on --still a draw- sparking-- Any ideas ?

[eldermike]

Battery disconnect switch might just be for an inverter and not the whole system.

[Fratzba]

Several things bypass the cut-off switch, for reasons that I don't understand.
I know the auto-level jacks do for sure, as do the trailer brakes.
There are other things too I believe, I just can't remember what they are.

-Fratz

[Pfflyer]

Co2 monitor, retracting step are possible as well.

[Mustang65]

If the battery cut of switch is correctly wired, the only cable on the negative terminal will be the cable from the disconnect switch, along with the Break-away switch (Only on a TT).

If it is the RV you probably have the automatic transfer switch connected directly to the battery also, and that has a low voltage circuit board which will cause a small spark and eventually kill your battery.


Don

[eldermike]

It's labeled wrong. I design battery disconnect switches, relays and systems for a manufacturer (Shallco, Inc.). http://shallco.com/502-series-batter...h-shallco-inc/

They are often used for system disconnects and in the case of RV's this would be a better lable.

[havnfun]

We have a TT with 2-12V batteries. I bought a disconnect switch but not sure the best way to install it (negative?) and where to put it. Two single battery boxes are outside on the A frame, behind the 2-30lb. propane tanks.
Can you give me some guidance?

Happy RVing,
Jeff

[bansai]

You definitely want to connect it on the negative line by default. Would need more info to answer the other questions. I'm putting mine in the pass through storage immediately behind the battery. You could I guess also get the cheaper 'throw' switch variety that connects directly to the negative terminal of each battery. This is a super easy, old school approach.

[TimHolt]

Before I knew a little about Harvey the RV, I had no idea about the disconnect switch, other than the previous owner told me to switch it off if I was not going to let the RV sit for more than two weeks.

After going through two batteries at $180 each over the course of a month, I figured out that I just flip the switch ANYTIME I am letting Harvey sit.

I check to make sure the battery is switched off by turning the interior lights on, flicking the switch, and the interior lights go out.

Have not had to purchase a battery since.

[norty1]

I installed one on my rig which has 2 batteries and after using it a few times and having the battery go down, I found that I had put it on the negative line between the 2 batteries.

I was only disconnecting one of the batteries.

Easy fix!

[havnfun]

Sounds like it's spliced into the negative line (but not between batteries, huh Norty? lol ) But where do I locate the disconnect switch?.....on the A frame, on the battery box? Mounting inside the front basement storage sounds good but I hesitate to drill holes.
What did you all do? Have any pics to share?

Happy RVing,
Jeff

[mark.nowak]

I put mine on the battery box, it seems to be working out pretty well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eldermike]

If the switch is not IP67 rated (water proof 3 feet for 30 minutes) you need to protect it from the elements. Ideal; you put it in a storage bay or a box if hung from the frame. How you wire it depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

[norty1]

Mine is in an enclosed hatch. I used the "knife" type and it was as easy as attaching it to the neg. battery terminal then moving the cable to the other side of the switch.

Err, once I got it on the right battery.

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by bansai

You definitely want to connect it on the negative line by default. Would need more info to answer the other questions. I'm putting mine in the pass through storage immediately behind the battery. You could I guess also get the cheaper 'throw' switch variety that connects directly to the negative terminal of each battery. This is a super easy, old school approach.

Just curious, why do you feel it is better to disconnect the negative, rather than the positive? It seems to me that it would not make any difference.

[eldermike]

Originally Posted by norty1

Mine is in an enclosed hatch. I used the "knife" type and it was as easy as attaching it to the neg. battery terminal then moving the cable to the other side of the switch.

Err, once I got it on the right battery.

I like the knife switches. In fact unless you spend at least $50.00 on a good quality enclosed switch your knife switch is best choice.

I personally have tested to failure almost every battery switch that is made on planet earth. We did this before designing ours. The cheap ones are constructed with thermo-plastics and very low grade materials in general. They are designed to compete on price point alone. I design battery switches and disconnects (there is a difference) for long distance trucks and refueling trucks.

When I get some time I am going to replace the cheap one on my Pinnacle with the Shallco disconnect switch.

Just for clarity on an unfinished point above.

A switch is designed to break maximum current as it's normal use. A disconnect is designed to break the circuit once the load has been reduced by turning everything off and then disconnecting the battery. Your knife device is a disconnect not intended to switch a load.

[TCNashville]

Located mine on the battery box as well.

[havnfun]

Thanks all for the info and the pics. I think I'll go ahead and mount mine on one of the battery boxes outside.

Happy RVing,
Jeff