Bedroom Outlets Loosing Power

moallen · 11-25-2015, 11:31 AM

I have a 2016 Starcraft (part of Jayco) trailer. It has two AC outlets in the bedroom. Sometimes both loose power. When it happens, everything else on that circuit still has power.

Here's what I found out so far. They are the same circuit breaker as the frig and GFCI outlets in the kit, bath and outside.

The GFCI is in the bath. If I trip it, I loose power to the bath, kit and outside. The frig and bedroom still have power.

I have quite a bit of electrical experience and know the dealer isn't likely to fix this on the first try, which is why I'm working on it.

I'm wondering if anyone has an idea where Jayco/Starcraft usually connects non-GFCI outlets into a circuit with GFCI outlets?

JohnWedell · 11-25-2015, 12:59 PM

I had a 2015 285fb with the same problem. There was a dead short in the underbelly by the entrance steps. The dealer ran a new wire and said it was about to short in another area. The wire was being pinched where they ran it. I would let a qualified dealer repair it.

ranchosinvacas · 11-26-2015, 01:05 AM

Some GFCI's are more "sensitive" than others. This doesn't sound logical, but if a GFCI is repeatedly tripped and reset it can become more likely to trip again due to a variety of metal fatigue. I'm likely to get some disagreement on this. However, if there is an ever so slightly "loose" wiring connection to the next receptacle down stream from the GFCI, a repeating "trip" situation can be the result.
The above info is based on my own experience and is not meant to be scientific electrical theory.

klpoppe · 11-26-2015, 04:05 AM

Only thing I can think is that the circuit is split at or near the fridge. Sounds like the line for GFCI goes one way and the line to the bedroom goes to another. May be a loose connection either at the split or at the first bedroom plug in that line.

JohnWedell · 11-26-2015, 07:01 AM

He said it was not a gfci protected line. Just for the record what model is it.

RoyBraddy · 11-26-2015, 07:19 AM

My trailer has several down stream 120VAC receptacles from an installed GFCI receptacle.

If the GFCI receptacle trips the down stream receptacles also loses AC power.

If you don't want these to do this then you will have to rewire the 120VAC receptacles to a different 120VAC source. Most of the trailer 120VAC Receptacles are doing the so called 'daisy chain' wiring concept.

Roy Ken

Bassdogs · 11-26-2015, 09:50 AM

My fridge and outside outlet are on the GFI protected circuit so when the GFI trips I loose my fridge and it switches over to gas. The auto switch over is good so that if this happens while you're away, you are not going to have a problem with food in the fridge. On the otherhand, really wish that Jayco would put the fridge on its own breaker so that it is not affected by a GFI or a trip from excess draw on another outlet.

Have noticed this on a number of occasions when powering up the fridge at home as we are packing for a trip. Guessing that the GFI tripped from weather while on the pad at home. No problem because the fridge is turned off unless we are using the TT. If your fridge will only run on gas, CHECK THE GFI RESET.

klpoppe · 11-26-2015, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnWedell

He said it was not a gfci protected line. Just for the record what model is it.

I know that... That's why I figured the GFCI line was branched from the fridge one way the the bedroom the other. Possible but not optimal way of wiring the circuit.

VicS1950 · 11-26-2015, 03:45 PM

I can understand why RV's are wired the way they are to save the cost of additional GFCI's. One problem for users is that the builders often include the outside receptacles which are more susceptible to moisture problems tripping a GFI.

Not that anyone asked...

It would not be a great problem to re-wire to separate the receptacles to individual GFI's. It will not necessarily be cheap though. The wiring itself doesn't need to be changed at all. The first existing GFI receptacle can be changed to stand alone and then individual GFCI receptacles could be installed to replace all the receptacles which were originally fed by feed through. The refrigerator should then remain unaffected by other circuit issues.

I agree that some GFI's are more sensitive than others. I don't believe that the solid state monitoring circuits which protect them are affected by metal fatigue. Keep in mind that all the leakage on a GFCI circuit is additive. Any existing leakage anywhere will be counted so that can make it seem "more sensitive".

FWIW. vic

us71na · 11-27-2015, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VicS1950

It would not be a great problem to re-wire to separate the receptacles to individual GFI's. It will not necessarily be cheap though. The wiring itself doesn't need to be changed at all. The first existing GFI receptacle can be changed to stand alone and then individual GFCI receptacles could be installed to replace all the receptacles which were originally fed by feed through. The refrigerator should then remain unaffected by other circuit issues.

You cannot put multiple GFCI's on a single circuit, they don't play well together. One or all of them will trip and not reset.

VicS1950 · 11-27-2015, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by us71na

You cannot put multiple GFCI's on a single circuit, they don't play well together. One or all of them will trip and not reset.

If you're referring to feeding a GFCI circuit with another GFCI circuit, then I completely disagree. GFI circuits feed GFI circuits all time when adapters are used from a 20 amp outdoor GFCI protected circuit to feed an RV which has GFCI protection after the RV main panel.

GFCI circuits being unable to feed another GFCI protected circuit is an old wives tale.

BUT...
What I am saying is to feed separate or individual GFCI receptacles from one breaker by not using the existing OEM GFCI feed through receptacle in its original configuration. That is also not a problem.

vic

P.S. - Most newer hair dryer blowers come with a GFCI unit built into the cord/plug unit. They are most always plugged into bathroom receptacles which are required to be GFCI protected. In other words they are designed knowing that a GFCI protected circuit will feed a GFCI protected hair dryer.

dakotakid91 · 06-17-2021, 10:59 AM

I read all of these posts with interest as my kitchen GFCI continues to trip and will not stay reset. I apparently have a dead short downstream from the GFCI and am trying to determine how best to trace it out and where to start.

Cincinnati Kid · 06-17-2021, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dakotakid91

I read all of these posts with interest as my kitchen GFCI continues to trip and will not stay reset. I apparently have a dead short downstream from the GFCI and am trying to determine how best to trace it out and where to start.

All you know for sure is that you have a ground fault at the GFCI or downstream. Identify the boxes, (sounds like you already have). Open them one at a time and have a look. Could be just a loose connection. Another thing- Your GFCI receptacle itself might have bit the dust.

dakotakid91 · 06-17-2021, 08:02 PM

I have replaced the GFCI with a new one and the problem persists. This is what has me thinking that it is something downstream. The diagram inside the converter says that the refrigerator is also connected to that circuit,BUT when I shut that breaker off, it does not cause the refrigerator to automatically go to gas. I believe the refrigerator is actually wired to the next circuit breaker. I took the cover off of all of the outlets which is not the easiest thing to figure out. I did not see any sign of anything loose in any of the outlets. I am thinking a problem in the wiring itself but troubleshooting that is my dilemma.

dakotakid91 · 06-19-2021, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dakotakid91

I have replaced the GFCI with a new one and the problem persists. This is what has me thinking that it is something downstream. The diagram inside the converter says that the refrigerator is also connected to that circuit,BUT when I shut that breaker off, it does not cause the refrigerator to automatically go to gas. I believe the refrigerator is actually wired to the next circuit breaker. I took the cover off of all of the outlets which is not the easiest thing to figure out. I did not see any sign of anything loose in any of the outlets. I am thinking a problem in the wiring itself but troubleshooting that is my dilemma.

I have determined that the 15A breaker feeds the outlet in the back by the refrigerator. Then from there the line I believe goes to the GFCI near the kitchen sink and then possibly to the two outside outlets and then underneath to reach the one a the rear kitchen sink. I am still trying to determine why this GFCI continues to trip. Ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

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