Conflicting Information

[robkelly]

On our last trip of the season and will be dumping the tanks in prep for winterizing, which leads to my question - do I put any water and chemicals in the black tank?

Probably a dumb newbie question, but have been told both yes and no. My thought is no as the tank will be rinsed thoroughly and I don't want to dilute the antifreeze, but how do you prevent the toilet seals from drying out?

Thanks in advance...

[Skaling]

Newbie here too, but I have read info that says leave tanks empty, no chemicals or antifreeze( other than the little that goes into tank when pumping antifreeze through your lines.. I've also read to pour antifreeze in all traps and in the toilet bowl itself. I am sure more experienced rv'ers will have more info..

[BNear]

10 years of winterizing the same trailer and I have never had to replace the toilet seal. Connect your antifreeze bottle as you are instructed by the manual for your trailer, turn on your pump and open all the required faucets. When getting to your toilet, flush the toilet until the antifreeze starts flowing, allow it to drain into the black tank for about 5 seconds then release the handle. Allow about a quarter of the bowl to remain full of the antifreeze. Done.
this is of course assuming you've already completed the flushing of your grey and black water tanks prior to winterizing.

[UPCamper]

Originally Posted by BNear

10 years of winterizing the same trailer and I have never had to replace the toilet seal. Connect your antifreeze bottle as you are instructed by the manual for your trailer, turn on your pump and open all the required faucets. When getting to your toilet, flush the toilet until the antifreeze starts flowing, allow it to drain into the black tank for about 5 seconds then release the handle. Allow about a quarter of the bowl to remain full of the antifreeze. Done.
this is of course assuming you've already completed the flushing of your grey and black water tanks prior to winterizing.

This is what I do. I also pour some in the traps.

[qwed94]

Bnear is correct. pouring in traps is really optional. It certainly dont hurt. I actually blow the lines first (after dumping the tanks). Then add "pink koolaid". Just because the air will truly get everywhere, and get all the water out, then when you pump, you are pumping just "pink RV goodness" and it will consume just a touch less.

Leave the pink stuff in the holding tanks for the winter (as well as the little bit in the toilet). Keeping all the seals wet, will help the seals last longer, and be easier to use in the spring.

[jtownstumpjumper]

Any additional recommendations for those with washer/dryer combo?....interested because we are thinking of trading for a fifth wheel that has the washer/dryer.

[qwed94]

when winterizing, turn the knob on the washer to spin/rinse and the drying time to the shortest time given. Let the washer cycle thru. It will siphon from the pump (connected to the bottle of "pink koolaid"). It will suck about 1 gallon. In other words, it will take about 3 gallons to winterize a unit with a washing machine. If you can find a clean container that will hold at least 3 gallons, pour 3 gallons of "RV Antifreeze" (pink koolaid) in the bucket, perform all the typical steps to winterize, then turn on washer as explained. -- When the washer has finished "spinning" everything out, you can turn off water pump, undo the bottle and button things back up. Your washer is now winterized.

[BNear]

Originally Posted by qwed94

when winterizing, turn the knob on the washer to spin/rinse and the drying time to the shortest time given. Let the washer cycle thru. It will siphon from the pump (connected to the bottle of "pink koolaid"). It will suck about 1 gallon. In other words, it will take about 3 gallons to winterize a unit with a washing machine. If you can find a clean container that will hold at least 3 gallons, pour 3 gallons of "RV Antifreeze" (pink koolaid) in the bucket, perform all the typical steps to winterize, then turn on washer as explained. -- When the washer has finished "spinning" everything out, you can turn off water pump, undo the bottle and button things back up. Your washer is now winterized.

Not sure I'm crazy about the idea of running antifreeze through the washing machine but having said that, I've never done it before so I have no idea. I'd feel more comfortable just pulling the drain and water lines and simply letting them drain out. Doing that would be fine because the washer isn't a seal system and gravity will allow the washer to lines to drain.

Again, that's just my opinion and not based on actual experience

[Stingray75]

Don't forget to let a little pink stuff flow thru the outside shower

[3'senough]

Use the dry chemical in the tank for the winter. When the antifreeze goes in it will mix and give you something. There is going to be a little of residual water in the tank, but due to the surface area it will not harm anything due to it having area for expansion. As long as the ice has somewhere to expand (up) it will safely.

Where freezing is an issue is when there is no room for expansion like a hose under full pressure.

Keep in mind that you will run AF into the traps when you winterize and under most conditions that is enough. My philosiphy is that the AF is cheap and the fixes are not so if you spend $20.00 bucks on AF and use it all so what. You know it's not going to freeze.

Water heater drained, bypass on and outside shower. Pull all the low points after you winterize as this will help with the spring cleaning of the system.

[Plowtoy]

After blowing a lower water heater hose between the valve and the tank, I now open the lower water heater hose valve to allow some antifreeze in that line as well. I can assure you, that the little bit of antifreeze in the hot water heater is worth not having to replace that line in the spring...