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Old 08-03-2016, 02:18 PM   #11
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Before you replace the unit, check for 12v at the splices and at the light itself.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:20 PM   #12
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Before you replace the unit, check for 12v at the splices and at the light itself.
Also check for bad fuse holder at the converter. Still haven't repaired the one on my TT yet.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:50 PM   #13
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Ctbailey, why do you need to replace a led in a new trailer?
It shouldn't burn out for ten years if you left it on that long.

Seems strange to me.

Good luck!
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:54 PM   #14
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Check for 12vdc at the fixture.


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Old 08-03-2016, 03:41 PM   #15
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Ctbailey, why do you need to replace a led in a new trailer?
It shouldn't burn out for ten years if you left it on that long.

Seems strange to me.

Good luck!
They shouldn't burn out for years, but in reality they sometimes do. We had one burn out during our first season. Verified that there was juice making it to the fixture and that the switch was not the problem. That's when I found out that none of our fixtures have LED modules that can be replaced. So back to the dealer to have it replaced under warranty. Once the warranty is up early next year I'll just move on to replacing them as they die with ones that do allow for module replacement.
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:56 PM   #16
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Hi everyone, thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

So, 12v was found at both the line feeding the fixture, and at the bulb array. I'm convinced the LED board is bad. Could have been defective or cracked, and then repeated on/off cycles finally caused a hairline crack on the board to open up further.

I emailed the folks at M4 LED .com (I'll post a better URL) and they recommended a replacement. I'll have to solder the new board in, because I want to keep the fixture.

$11 plus shipping seemed like little risk.

I'll report back my process and hopefully re-functional over sink light.


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Old 08-10-2016, 06:39 PM   #17
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Hi everyone, thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

So, 12v was found at both the line feeding the fixture, and at the bulb array. I'm convinced the LED board is bad. Could have been defective or cracked, and then repeated on/off cycles finally caused a hairline crack on the board to open up further.

I emailed the folks at M4 LED .com (I'll post a better URL) and they recommended a replacement. I'll have to solder the new board in, because I want to keep the fixture.

$11 plus shipping seemed like little risk.

I'll report back my process and hopefully re-functional over sink light.


Craig Bailey
New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
2015 Jayco Jayflight 32BHDS


Well, the LED kit came with two adapters; an automotive "1257" style base, and a blank solder terminal. Both connected to the LED board with a pc style jumper connector.

I clipped the line wires at the rocker switch built into the fixture. At that point I discarded the OEM led driver board, because the new one from M4 included an on-board driver (which I assume really is just a voltage regulator circuit.)


This allowed me to solder the line wires to the adapter, and then plugged the board onto the line. Thus I got a nice hot solder connection without worrying about overheating the new board.

Here's looking at 10,000 hours.

Sorry no pics, soldering one handed onto lines coming out of the bottom of my cabinets was hard enough.

Didn't even bother killing the 12 volt circuit. Wired it "hot." (Not recommended for 120vac work)



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New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
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