Issues de-winterizing my hot water heater

[ScooterDiva]

You guys helped me out with my leaking toilet valve and after spending $20 for a new valve, it works great! I don’t have any local dealers and I am supposed to take a trip on Memorial Day weekend and I have no hot water! Maybe you can help me again.
Last fall I diverted the water from the heater and drained the water out.
This spring, I tried to reverse the process, but the water wasn’t flowing into the heater and back. If I turn the valve on the diverter line, that worked again.
As I was turning the 2 valves clock and counter clockwise, I proceeded to break one off where the arrow is. I think I got it back popped on, but with no water flowing, it’s hard to tell.
Another weird thing is I was thinking it might be pressure in the heater and when I took the plug out, pressured water came shooting out (Yes, all over me). I know it was drained in the fall!
I hope this made sense.

[fochman]

One of my valves broke last year when I was de-winterizing last spring on my 2011 X213. Had the same issue that you have. I had my dealer replace the valve under warranty when I took the TT in for some other work. You could order a new valve and replace it yourself.

[norty1]

Agree, valve is likely stuck closed. They are easy to replace

[Heady]

Agreed, I broke one last year. Do a youtube search for working with PEX. Lots of good video's out there.

[Jmooney]

Plan on replacing the pipe clamp(s) as well. The factory pinch clamps are really single use. ( and a pain to get off )

[Paintinfool3]

as to the pressure open a hot water faucet and make sure to switch the valves without pressure from pump or hose they move easier that way

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Jmooney

Plan on replacing the pipe clamp(s) as well. The factory pinch clamps are really single use. ( and a pain to get off )

X2

..... and it takes a special tool to crimp those PEX pinch clamps. You may have to apply a little heat (cigarette lighter works) to the plastic tubing to get it off the old valve.

Bob

[Livinglife2]

I would replace it with a shark bite valve, very easy fix just cut both ends at current valve with a pex cutter, after cut measure back 1 inch on pex and mark so you know it's pushed on all the way and push on new valve till you can't see your mark and your done, 2 minute project. I have used these for 5 years now on my home pex system with no problems or leaks with being under pressure 24/7

[MrKong]

I just ran into a broken valve on my 19H. What size Shark Bite Valve do I need for those lines?

[crocket]

When we de-winterized we didn't have a problem until we heated up the water heater then one of our valves started spraying all over. Hubby put the same valve as Livinglife showed. Original were plastic, this one should be better and we have no leaks now.

[MrKong]

Yeah, I think I am going to replace all three valves at once, never want to have this trouble again. I also want to put a quick drain valve on my hot water tank.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by MrKong

snip..... I also want to put a quick drain valve on my hot water tank.

Please note, if you have an Atwood HWH (aluminum tank) with a plastic drain plug, don't replace the plastic plug with any metal plug or metal fittings......., the dissimilar metals will initiate the corrosion (electrolysis) process.

Bob

[norty1]

Originally Posted by MrKong

Yeah, I think I am going to replace all three valves at once, never want to have this trouble again. I also want to put a quick drain valve on my hot water tank.

Cut one off and take it to the plumbing dept of your nearest big box store. My GUESS would be 1/2 in.

[MrKong]

Yeah, its either 1/2 or 3/8th. It should be printed on the line.

I would think using the valves pictured above would also lead to galvanic corrosion over time also. It would be slower, but will still happen over time.

Just like in water cooling my computer mixing copper and aluminium radiators and cooling blocks.

[Livinglife2]

Originally Posted by MrKong

Yeah, its either 1/2 or 3/8th. It should be printed on the line.

I would think using the valves pictured above would also lead to galvanic corrosion over time also. It would be slower, but will still happen over time.

Just like in water cooling my computer mixing copper and aluminium radiators and cooling blocks.

you shouldnt have that problem
Sharkbite Details
•Approved to be used underground and behind walls without access panels.
•Fittings are certified to 200 PSI and 180 degrees Fahrenheit (82 degrees Celsius).
•Integral tube liner for PEX installations which means no loose connections.
•Made of DZR (dezincification resistant) brass which provides a strong, durable fitting that is corrosion resistant.
•The SharkBite design is certified to ANSI/NSF-61 and ASSE 1061 product standard for use in potable water and hydronic heating water distribution.
•Designed for hydronic heating as well as potable water distribution.
•Please consult your local plumbing codes for specific applications.
•Product is lead free

[Brownie]

Mr. Kong,
The PEX lines in your trailer are, indeed, 1/2". I do a lot of plumbing work on manufactured homes, which also use 1/2" PEX tubing. I've been using Shark Bite fittings for years. There's nothing better! FYI: they also work on 1/2" copper tubing and 1/2" CPVC (cream colored), but not 1/2" PVC (white) tubing - so they'll also work on your "stick & brick" house.

[MrKong]

Thanks a bunch Brownie. I was at Lowes and all the had was Blue Hawk push fittings. I borrowed a PEX cutter, and will tackle this in the morning.

[norty1]

Blue hawk is a store brand.

[MrKong]

So you think I won't have any problems with it?

[norty1]

I have never used one. Sure would like to hear from someone who has.