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Old 10-27-2016, 09:13 AM   #21
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Just stumbled across a DC powered air conditioner that appears way more efficient than the usual 1500-1800Watt units in our trailers. They have a 12,000BTU unit that apparently only uses 560Watts of power and it runs on 48V DC so no inverter needed.

You would have to have a 48v battery bank though....

Looks interesting.
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:29 AM   #22
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Sounds expensive in Arizona 30 amp service is OK very seldom do we need 2 ac running.At night we might turn off main ac a switch on master bed unit.We have one 275 watt panel and a 30 amp mppt blue sky charge controller.The controller is the secret the mppt is worth the money.I wish we would have purchased the 40 amp,our controller ours maxes out at 290 watts.
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:52 AM   #23
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Not sure if you are looking at Amps, or just watts.

The more accurate comparison is their 15k BTU unit, vs. a 15KBTU unit from Coleman / AirXcel.


At 48 Volts, the 15K BTU 12 Volt AC uses 770W Watts = 16 Amps.

The 120 Volt AC 15K BTU averages 1500W which = 12.5 Amps

Looks to me that the DC powered Air Conditioner requires more power when you are comparing BTU's and it would take a pretty massive battery bank.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:02 PM   #24
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The 120 volt AC unit would be pulling 31amps out of a 48v battery bank and 125 amps out of a typical 12 volt rv battery bank. Sure it is only 12.5 amps on AC power but that is not comparable here.

I am talking about running air conditioning from a battery bank. DC current not AC. Using a air conditioner designed for DC power is more efficient as you don't have any inverter losses.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:12 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
The 120 volt AC unit would be pulling 31amps out of a 48v battery bank and 125 amps out of a typical 12 volt rv battery bank. Sure it is only 12.5 amps on AC power but that is not comparable here.

I am talking about running air conditioning from a battery bank. DC current not AC. Using a air conditioner designed for DC power is more efficient as you don't have any inverter losses.
I'm not getting your math.- just going to delete the rest of my reply lol... if you can afford (cost and weight) the massive bank of batteries required for a 48 volt system that can support an AC, you have a LOT more money and towing capacity than most... personally, I'd just stay home or pick better camping spots. To each his own.

I find the DC air conditioners about as useful as a dog with 2 <insert appendage here>
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Old 10-28-2016, 11:28 AM   #26
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Forget comparing one to the other. Let's assume a device uses 700Watts and operates on 110v AC power.

700 watts / 110v = 6.36amps

If that same device is used in an RV with a 12v battery bank you will need an inverter to produce 110v AC power to use the device. But you are still dealing with 700 watts.

700W/12v=58 amps

So the batteries will see a 58 amp draw even if the device only sees 6.4 amps.

I agree with your point above though and I was a lot more excited before I realized you need 48 volts to operate it. But even at that it is twice as efficient as a comparable "standard" unit. You get the same 15,000 BTU output for half of the input (watts).

Also many people here travel with 4 golf cart batteries on their tongue. 4 12 volt batteries would give you a 48 volt bank to work with. All you need then is a DC to DC voltage reducer to output 12 volts back to your trailer and the AC unit can run directly from the battery with a pretty low amperage draw.

You could also stick with your current battery bank and get a DC to DC boost converter for a lot less than an inverter. It would be a more efficient system overall. I think......
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Old 11-10-2016, 02:35 PM   #27
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Anything is possible it just takes money. If the OP wants to spend $10K on batteries, inverters and solar go for it.
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:10 PM   #28
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Overkill project - Feedback request for inverters and batteries

I'm starting to prepare to do the solar, inverters and lithium batteries, which means plan everything out in as many variants as possible so I'm not redoing the work again in the near future. I know this is long winded. It's hard to be concise when you have more questions than answers on broad fronts.

I'm looking at doing the Valence batteries or similar since my wife is not especially comfortable with batteries known to burn violently when damaged. Does anyone have feedback on the safest Lithium batteries commercially available? (demo video here for the sort of differences.) I like the safe aspect. But I was planning on 4-6 260AH batteries as minimum. The larger size doesn't seen to be an option with them with quite high enough power discharge capabilities. I know it's a trade between safety and power density, and I haven't done nearly enough research to spend money on batteries. That kind of holds up the entire project, so please share any experiences or send links to any relevant reading for this type of application.

My FW is still in storage until at least April before I can start to measure. My thought is that the excess space over the hatch on the front compartment should be a good spot to mount the inverters. Until I can see how large the gap is over the top shelf for the gen and batteries go, it's only a thought to place them there.

So far the Xantrex Freedom SW looks like it would be best suited to what I'm after. It limits voltage for the batteries to 24V though. Does anyone have other alternatives for something that would give enough power? I like that I can tie them together for higher power output, and tie them with sequencers to shed loads as required. It also has an AGS option, although I haven't even started to look at how I could tie that with an external generator. (Which would only come into play if I am building a house, much later down the line.)

The solar aspect I think has been covered in more detail and with better instructions than I could hope to post, so I'll skip most of the details on that side of things.

For budgeting, I'm looking at roughly the following:

4 (minimum) 260AH batteries - $3k USD (link)

2 Xantrex Freedom SW inverters - $4k CAD (link)

Xantrex control panel, sequencer and cables - ~1k CAD

Batteries & Inverter/charger portion of the project is about $24.6k CAD / $18.9k USD. This is before shopping for best price, so I expect to be able to find some savings on that.

For those still wondering why I'd do this:

This is a proof of concept. The need to run dual AC is to make sure I can handle heavy loads.

My primary thought is that if I start building a house in the future (at least a few years out, if not longer), I would like to have as many options as possible for power. I'll have an external generator, but I'd rather not have more noise than needed if there is no construction going on. Building a house would be far enough from anything else that generator noise would really not be ideal. The house would also be far enough out from existing hydro service (electric power) that the build cost to bring power in would be more than the entire cost for the solar/lithium/inverter build on the RV, and a good chunk of it for the house. Also, if building a house I'd rather be living on site to make sure everything is done right. I don't plan to build a house and move again after it's done.

There is a possibility I *may* use this for work. I work with technology, and some of the computer systems I would like to be able to stage in the trailer are far from light on power. If it can run the dual AC, i can at least run parts of the solutions I'd be staging while still having at least the one AC running. If I'm doing consulting and staging in the RV, I would likely be in locations where running a generator could very well not be an option. Another perk to the Xantrex system for me is that if I'm at a client site and I can get a 15A connection, I could charge the batteries in the down time, and use the power stored via the inverters to get higher power during work times.
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:04 PM   #29
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I only have one question. How will you power the new house? 100% solar?
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:03 AM   #30
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I'm looking for property that will have running water as well for a small hydro dam, and I will put in some wind as well. But Solar will be a fair part of the total power for the home.
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