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02-22-2011, 07:27 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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Master battery cut-off switch
I can't find a master battery cut-off switch in my shiny new Jayco 28.5RLS fifth wheel, nor any mention of it in the documentation. Does Jayco just not install a master battery cut-off switch in some trailers, or is the switch hiding somewhere?
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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02-22-2011, 07:28 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sewanee, TN
Posts: 93
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Mine didn't have one, and I haven't seen any in new ones, either. It's a simple addition, and a trip to the local boat shop like West Marine will get you a good quality Perko switch for about $35.
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Richard and Laura Ray
Amateur Radio W4RLR
"The Green Goblin" 2008 F-250 Lariat CC SB, 6.4 liter automatic, 4x4"Love Shack" 1995 Jayco Eagle 277 RBSS fifth-wheel
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02-22-2011, 07:45 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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02-22-2011, 07:53 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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Thanks, guys. It sure is dumb of Jayco to make a trailer without a master switch. But you are right, it's an easy fix.
By the way, if I run according to pattern, this was the first of 872 questions. Get ready!!
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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02-22-2011, 08:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: PNW
Posts: 5,195
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I just remove the 30 amp automotive fuse that's next to the battery box.
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Bill
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab
2011 Jay Flight 26BH
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02-22-2011, 09:15 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
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.
At my 2006 Jayco at our seasonal site, I installed a manual 12V switch as well. For my setup, I used a hard wood board backing. Could have used a steel plate as well. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_1336.jpg
Note: If installing a manual 12V switch, it might be best to install on the "+" cable (near the battery). And, have the brake's break-away positvie cable on the "live side" of this switch. Using this wiring connection method, the brake's break-away switch will continue to work - regardless of manual switch position. If wanting to build a 100% off or 100% on manual switch, install this optional switch on the "+" or "-" side of the battery. And all other cables are connected to the switch side (of the switch).
Hope this helps as well.
.
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02-22-2011, 09:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 427
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No master switch on my Eagle...
But don't want one. I just keep the shore power hooked up and check the batteries every month. So far zero issues.
But do remember even though you have a master switch on the battery doesn't mean it will protect them from self-discharge.
Like I use to work for the local fire dept. They always had issues with dead batteries in the fire trucks even with master switches. What it can down to was installing a small trickle charger in the trucks and keeping them plugged in. So this just proves that master switch will keep your loads from drawing down the batteries but does nothing about the self-discharge.
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02-23-2011, 09:31 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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I am with you MoparMan, I don't have one and don't really see any need for one. Our trailer is always plugged in.
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2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
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02-24-2011, 06:39 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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But if you`re not plugged in and do not disconnect the battery it will be stone dead in about two weeks, due to the parasitic draws from LP/Carbon monoxide alarm, radio, etc. I found this out the hard way on my first trailer. -Lee
__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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02-24-2011, 09:09 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 388
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I just pull the ground cable off of the battery when leaving the trailer in storage. Takes about 10 seconds longer than turning a switch, and it's free!
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02-24-2011, 12:57 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 224
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Mine is in the battery compartment. Id say if you dont have one there you dont have one!
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Stephen & Lori
Jordan (Our daughter)
Kitty & Elmore (Our 2 dumped cats)
Adopt a shelter pet!
2009 Jayco Designer 37RLQS
2011 GMC Denali 3500 Duramax Crew Cab 4X4 Dually
20K Curt Q5 hitch
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02-24-2011, 04:21 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,645
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Thanks for the replies. I know that not everyone is interested in a battery disconnect, but for those of us who don't have our trailer hooked up to AC all the time, they can be helpful.
It does work, of course, to remove a battery cable. But, you have to remember to do it, and to hook it again before you tow again, or you don't have any break-away brakes. Anyway, my last trailer had one, and and I got spoiled.
I'm going to install a battery disconnect switch next to my converter. There, I can rig it so that it only turns off battery power to all the interior equipment; the break-away will still be powered, and I believe that the slide and landing jacks will still be powered.
I'll post some pictures when I get it done, but it will be awhile; my list of "to-do's" is quite long. It's like moving into a new house.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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02-24-2011, 04:56 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 4,923
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Just another take on this ---
Before I had permanent wiring for my trailer, I used to disconnect the battery cable. About 6 months into it, I started having low voltage under load in the TT when on battery. What I discovered was my exposed cables developed a thin layer of corrosion and caused the issue.
Bottom line, if I did not have shore power I would want a cut off switch in order to keep my connections nice and tight.
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02-25-2011, 10:27 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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You are correct Crabman. I really don't think my batteries would last close to two weeks. Some of us could use a switch and some of us don't need one.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
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03-17-2011, 04:10 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NW IL
Posts: 15
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I just pull the 30 amp fuse as well.
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03-17-2011, 08:41 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: White Salmon, Wa.
Posts: 550
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Well I know that on my new TT that batterys didnt last two weeks when the converter went bad obout week and a half and everthing in trailer was dead batterys only read 6volts on both but cut off switch would not have helped I was hooked up to power.
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06-03-2011, 08:10 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlrtwo
I just pull the 30 amp fuse as well.
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Me too. When winterizing the trailer last fall, I pulled the fuse, but didn't get to take the battery inside for the winter due to a last-minute work-related trip. The battery remained outside all winter (and I live in Ottawa, Canada, the second-coldest capital in the world), and the battery still had a full charge in the spring (much to my surprise). Now, I don't recommend doing this, as I was LUCKY that my battery didn't freeze; I'm just making the point that removing the fuse will do the same thing as a battery-disconnect switch.
Regards,
Rick
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06-03-2011, 09:21 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 278
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If your thinking of adding a switch, then why not replace the cheap fuse holder too with a combo breaker/switch. I use these on my boat and love em.
I plan on making many mods this fall/winter and adding two of these breakers are on the to-do list.
Blue Sea Systems - 187 Series Breaker
Large Picture
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2010 Dodge Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4
2011 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 30.5RLS
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08-07-2011, 01:06 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 136
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I just installed a Marinco "Park Power 701" series switch.
The fuse was inside the battery box, so pulling it was never an option. The cutoff is wired such that the tow vehicle and breakaway brakes are ALWAYS connected, regardless of the switch position. I also have a 2-Pin flat harness exposed for connection of a 1 watt solar panel whilst in storage.
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08-08-2011, 03:43 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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Make sure you keep the battery clean, especially the top. Dust, dirt, and grime will conduct enough electricity to discharge the battery over a period of time.
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2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
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