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Old 12-06-2012, 06:41 PM   #21
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Front seam before
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Front seam after
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HDTV and solar (no cracks in solar)
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Roof to wall seam that I will redo when Dicor comes in
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Skylight and Fantastic Fan (notice roof crinkling)
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:50 PM   #22
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Here is what I did on my TT front/rear roof joints: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ght=eternabond
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Here is what I did on my TT front/rear roof joints: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...ght=eternabond
I used Eternabond on my last trailer. That stuff is great.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:26 PM   #24
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I too recommend EnternaBond. Used it on my old motorhome.
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:05 AM   #25
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What caulking would you guys recommend for the walls? And if I want to freshen it all up do I need to remove all caulking or can I just run a bead over all the existing caulking over the entire trailer? Or even easier, run Eternabond on the wall seals as well?
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:46 AM   #26
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What caulking would you guys recommend for the walls?
Pro Flex RV™ Flexible Sealant by Geocel
This can usually be found at your local hardware store. Ask for Geocel Pro Flex for RV sidewalls.
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:52 AM   #27
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Another great sealant is 2300 MHRV Vehicle Body Sealant by Geocel , but it's mostly available through distributors.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:07 AM   #28
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What caulking would you guys recommend for the walls? And if I want to freshen it all up do I need to remove all caulking or can I just run a bead over all the existing caulking over the entire trailer? Or even easier, run Eternabond on the wall seals as well?
On the walls (verticals) I use Dicor Lap Sealant #551 LSW which is a Non-leveling/Non-Sag sealant.

On the roof touch-up I'm not as particular about cosmetics, but the walls that's a different story. In most cases I remove the old caulking and then apply new for effectiveness and cosmetic reasons...... I guess it becomes a personal judgment call. I haven't used Eternabond on my walls.

Bob
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:55 AM   #29
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Quote:
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On the walls (verticals) I use Dicor Lap Sealant #551 LSW which is a Non-leveling/Non-Sag sealant.

On the roof touch-up I'm not as particular about cosmetics, but the walls that's a different story. In most cases I remove the old caulking and then apply new for effectiveness and cosmetic reasons...... I guess it becomes a personal judgment call. I haven't used Eternabond on my walls.

Bob
When I am trying to be neat with the lap sealant, I found using painters tape to mask off each side of where I am caulking. Works really well to keep it neat.
I use the same procedure to get a good look in my bathtub :-)

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Old 12-07-2012, 01:01 PM   #30
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Should I leave well enough alone on the walls and only touch up the needed areas? (Maybe 2-3 I need to touch up, I'm just OCD). If I need to remove all existing caulking I may be just wasting my time. If I could just remove what is right out in the open and caulk over the top then its not much more time.
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:50 PM   #31
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I would only touch up what is needed.
Anything that is obviously loose needs to be removed. You only want to over coat what is sticking well.
On the roof, you can take a paint brush and wipe into little cracks and such.
The key in all things is striking the right balance. You can over do anything.
The fact that your being diligent in your maintenance is probably above average, so you're doing good.
Keep your maintenance up, balanced approach and you should enjoy your TT and won't look at it as a complete headache :-)
It's like maintaining a good car or truck but, simpler.

Best regards,
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:53 PM   #32
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Someone early in this thread mentioned checking your tires. Very important. If your rig is a 2007, you may have the original tires. 5 years seems to be the consensus of opinion as to time to re-tire, regardless of how good they look. The last 4 digits of the serial number on each tire is the date code, and it may appear on only one side. Example - if the last 4 digits are 2807, it means they were produced in the 28th week of 2007, in other words, end of July 2007. JFYI.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:45 PM   #33
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It has new all terrains on it Good call though!
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:24 AM   #34
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Eternabond across the front seam. Took 2 strips of 4" to get the coverage I wanted. Stood on the open bunk to do it and it took all of 15 min. Really happy with this product.

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Old 12-13-2012, 03:43 PM   #35
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Great EternaBond job...., and while your up around the roof check the caulking around all the marker lights..... famous spot for moisture to get in.

Bob
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:42 AM   #36
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Eternabond across the front seam. Took 2 strips of 4" to get the coverage I wanted. Stood on the open bunk to do it and it took all of 15 min. Really happy with this product.

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Attachment 5885
I agree,
I love this stuff. Always keep a roll in the TT

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Old 12-14-2012, 11:22 AM   #37
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I re caulked all the seals on my 2008 197. It was fairly easy but very time consuming. I had the trailer seals inspected at a Jayco dealer for $125. The offered to do the job at 4hrs X $125 hr. So after taxes I was looking at almost $700 for the day. When I told them I wanted to do it myself, they were great. They showed me what was good / bad and what needed to be replaced, how to do it and what products to use. It took me 8 hours to do the entire trailer, which was twice what the dealer ship told me it would take ( Their work would be neater than mine ). But at $125/hr at the dealer it was worth my day to do it myself, and I kind of enjoyed it. Exept for every 20 min my wife would ask if I was done yet?
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:04 PM   #38
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For a rubber roof, I would use Dicor. it comes in caulking tubes and is around $10 a tube. It goes on with a caulking gun and is self leveling. I don't think it's necessary to remove all of the old caulking, but yours has been exposed to the elements for a while and you'll get a much better result by removing as much of the old stuff as you can. If you use a putty knife, you can carefully use it to lift the old sealant. Take your time so you don't puncture the rook. I used Dicor to seal around a new Fantastic vent that I installed and it worked great.If you take your trailer to the dealer for roof repair, that's what thy are going to use on the seams.
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:38 PM   #39
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We are out for our first trip in the trailer and found some old water damage to the bottom of one of the benches at the table. It looked like older damage so I thought nothing of it. This morning the floor was wet in that area so I naturally freaked out. After some searching I found two leaks. A small leak at the connection to the outdoor shower which was as easy as tightening up the connection. The other was off the water pump itself (sureflo 2088). Seems to be right out of the top which can be fixed with a rebuild kit, but I don't feel like dealing with it so I ordered a new 4008 sureflo off of Amazon that will be here on the 19th. Glad it was easy, but the water damage to the bench is going to drive me nuts now. I'm thinking I can cut the bottom inch or two off of it and add in a stained hardwood so it is fixed and will not happen again. I can only imagine the cost of that pressed wood piece from Jayco.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:18 PM   #40
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Here are a few photos of the trailer set up. Weather has been terrible, but that's fine as it is getting us accustomed to what we can and cannot do inside. I've learned that having the water pump, 12v TV, antenna signal booster, and all lights on will pop a fuse so I bought a pack of fuses and ordered LEDs to decrease the draw. Found a leak, and made a couple adjustments here and there.
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